Welcome aboard! Looking forward to another builder share some pics of your build!
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Thanks Marcus, read your build when i got premium and am impressed with the build, hope I can get directions once I get going at it.
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I’m gonna start collecting materials for build, I build bridges in the winter and have access to lots of 13 inch od pile material for free, but it’s 3/8 thick , is that to thick for fire tube?
Dean
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Welcome aboard.
I have built several firetubes 3/8 thick. They tend to get heavy fast but as long as you aren’t trying to set speed records they work well and last a long time.
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Good morning Dean and a big welcome to the DOW 
In most cases the material you have or can get easily is the best .
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I don’t have a roller so trying to figure out how to get 11inch hearth tube, maybe shrink down 12” propane tank
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I would consider taking .5" ceramic wool and lining a propane tank, then coating with satanite or some other refractory liner slurry.
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Also, not sure if you’re aware, but you can edit a post to add more photos. I tend to type out stuff first and then edit in the pictures later. The Pencil/Pen icon at the bottom of your comment will let you edit.
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The up grade for there design is 1” insulation plus 1/8 liner I will put 1” insulation but wanna skip liner, did some experiments to with insulation and itc 100 ht ceramic coating, I have used in forge, it works good I think , I have a you tube account I haven’t used in years, I’ll try to down load some short videos to it and try to link them to here
Dean
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If you ever have to use a poker(and you will eventually), I would be wary of ripping the ceramic wool with the rod. At least with a refractory coating it’s repairable but you’d have to replace the whole wool liner if it gets torn up. I’m not familiar with itc 100 HT but just looking at quick pictures nobody lays it on very thick. How well is it at say a .5" thickness?
Or is it more of a reflective stiffener?
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Ya it’s just like thick paint when you water it down, two layers is like 1/16 thick, I did a couple short videos of it on the super wool and plain wool using a torch on it, the wool will melt around 2400 f and the treated stuff didn’t melt my heat gun only goes to 2700 f and the torch gets way hotter, and just for fun I put some on a thin 3/4 pipe fitting and the plain end melts and treated end doesn’t , just downloading some short videos to YouTube, my internet sucks, using phone off a booster where I live, have to get Elon’s satellite I think. When they get down loaded how do I get the link to my post?
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Now that has some for sure prospect! How well does it adhere to steel? Will it flake off with heat?
Sure coating and even better refactory metals down in the HOT char areas can be beneficial.
But . . . . a very big Butt . . . effective Operation will require usage rod poking down.
You see this in all of the old use videos. Read this in the real operators; ‘must-do’ instructions.
Most think you only rod down above the jets line for tar capping and bridging. Nope. You need to rod down the lower below jets line, as well.
This is to settle and eliminate “rat-hole” burn voids. Break up forming sintered ash amalgamates before they clinker fuse set.
Hard for me to tell from your so far picture sets DeanL.
Are you proposing eliminating the Ben’s Book lower floating inner steel liner? The slip in one with the air nozzle face holes in it? The advanced features one with the between the jets V humps welded on?
Call it what you want; one of it’s primary functions (it has five functions) is to be a hard metal protection against rodding down damages.
Rodding down will tear up even hardened spun insulations.
Break poured in-place ceramic cores. Surface scratch up pre-made formed, and fired ceramic cores. Then they will with thermal shocking, then crack up.
This floating, cheap to make, pullout, replaceable multipurpose liner on one of the three patent level Ben Peterson design features he put up to all book buyers, and book system builders to be able to use for use performance benefits. You used to only get this liner, and sifting grating feature by shelling out a minimum of $5,000-$15,000 for one of his later all stainless steel systems.
Always be careful not to throw out the invaluable Baby with the perceived, no-longer-needed baby bath water.
Regards
Steve unruh
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I found some 10” 1/8 wall pipe,so if I use the 12” propane bottle for nozzles and this 10” pipe my 1 inch insulation will fit. Steve, I’m shooting for 1litre build for now so my nozzles are gonna be sticking inside the liner a little over an inch, would it be beneficial to weld a slope ring on my liner just above the jets? They don’t show that in the book.
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Define a “slope ring”.
Do you mean like a tar fence? Protruding nozzles is a good thing it helps keep heat away from the walls of the gasifier, ash should build up behind it over time as long as you don’t do total dumps of the system.
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Hey Cody, I was just thinking a 60 degree ring just above nozzles and only as far out as nozzles to stop wood from bridging, and if any gases sneak upwards it wood recycle it back , maybe it’s not needed and Im thinkin to much
DeanL. you could always add this later and then see yeah, or nay.
A lot will depend on your gasifer engine loading. Fuel wood species. And how you are shape- size processing that wood.
My own owned, once experimental Victory Hearth #1 (where this slip in “insulation retainer”, “combustion shape former”, “rodding down protector”, “sacrificial liner” was first developed) has flush faced jets to the liner. Later the minimum jets were increased from five to six, and the jets did protrude. Both ways works.
Important to make the jets nozzles screw-in, screw-out anyhow for sizing changing.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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