Got back to working on gasifier some, now gotta build filter and cooling rack
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Tone, I built this so I can regulate the air to grate nozzle and plug it if I need and plug lower 5 nozzles if I have to,lots of combinations to try once I start to test it.
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You are an artist, hats off. Is that a greese line on the grate agitator?
It seems you got a flange to fuse the lower and upper part of the gasifier. Just a warning, this is a make or break point. A leak here will render the gasifier useless, its what we call a hot leak. It only takes a pinhole and when the air gets in it starts a blowtorch like fire that starts to expand the leak even more.
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Have to agree with Kristijan. True craftsman. Very neatly done.
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That’s a 3/8 inch id hose that goes to the bottom grate nozzle so I can regulate it or shut it off with ball valve , those flanges will not leak sealed good.
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But if this does leak and goes into heater mode I could weld it up
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The grate, ash section has a 18 inch tank fully welded to flange then 1 inch insulation then a 20 inch tank welded to flange so hopefully one of those welds hold lol.
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Great product, you invested a lot of knowledge and effort, regarding the lower nozzle, I would advise you to add higher heat protection or shorten the nozzle. Well, if you shorten the nozzle, it is necessary to replace the grate with a plate and the ash will move to the side
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Thanks Tone, ya if you look in the next picture of the grate I did add an inch higher ring on bottom for ash to build up higher, I all ready sealed up flanges, so I’ll test it like this and see if it holds up.
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Yeah. That is the real way . . . . proof test under a gas demanded loading.
I’ve come to firmly believe varying wood species; the cut out of the tree portion (stem heart wood; stem sap/growth wood; or limb and branch wood); how well the user is able to dry it down; how willing the user is willing to size chunk it . . .
These all override any systems design features perfections.
Theses factors especially:
Remaining ash will vary from under 1% to over 10%. This a is huge.
The physical hardness and weight density of the in-system formed chars chunks. Hard woods only using guys are become famous for flopping switched over to just not using soft chars conifer woods anymore. They curse conifer woods. Blaming it’s taring. It’s prevalence to make lot and lots of char-dusts they call soot’s. Not really. You over-drawed the system for the faster converting conifer chars. You physically poked and stirred, and vibrated shook conifir chars too aggressively. YOU, Mr Operator made this “soot” shedding and clogging’s.
Ha! Conifer woods pitch and soft chars are all just more fuels capable H’s and C’s to me.
Saps sugars dried then fixed within the wood is again just more fuel. Why those Nordic guys love their Birtch trees wood for woodgasifiers.
S.U.
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Finally had time to put gasifier together, I think I’m gonna add more cooling for summer, ran it yesterday for about 1/2 hr and today the same.
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Dean I forget, are you going to run a vehicle with this or a generator?
With a generator you could maybe utilize the battery charging output to power a 12vdc radiator fan to keep a breeze on the cooling pipes and to a lesser degree the hopper.
Or add more cooling tubes if you’re not feeling like the current setup is working in the summer.
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I bought a 2007 2500 gmc long box 4x4 with a 6L from an auction ,205000 km on it it has a bit of rust but will work, I’m gonna put it on that, it was built to slide in box.
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Since your pickup is in the same generation range for my 2011, to shut off the injectors you’ll want to use the ENG fuse. You’d think it would be INJ A & B but those actually shut off the spark.
Fuel pump is labelled clearly. I used fuse relocators/extenders and wired my switches in to those leads.
They will run on woodgas but it can be tricky. In my last few tests I just left the injectors on. Personally I’d just tap into the Fuel Pump fuse and wire in a PWM and kill switch. I’m about to do the same. Bear in mind I had the 4.3L V6 but I believe the fuse boxes are all the same for the 07-13 generation.
Does your engine have the cylinder deactivation? If so I’d heavily consider deleting that function and swapping the cam and lifters for simple ones. There’s kits online. It should say on the dashboard if there’s an “Eco” or “V4” mode. The cylinder deactivation stuff wipes out camshafts and can ruin an engine, but you’d probably have heard it with that many miles on the truck.
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No fancy stuff on this truck just air cruise and tilt, not even electric windows, ya I was hoping when I get to the city to talk to a guy who’s a tuner and maybe we can figure out a program-chip to be able to hybrid and change timing and stuff.
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Cody, prob 9 or 10 years ago I had a 2010 ski doo summit 800 carbed sled which i turboed , a couple years later I ordered a micro squirt which wasn’t all that much from diyautotune.com and with a couple small throttle bodies, map sensor , throttle position sensor and a hall sensor i fuel injected the sled, ran way better, with the software back then for the lap top even I was able to program it , I still have a box and harness in the shop I should look up more info, I know they can control timing and injectors for any vehicles that’s what they were designed for, might have to call them, if I remember right they were real helpful when you called them.
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Here’s second time l ran it , ignore dirty hands lol.
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Hi Dean, the woodgas temperature should be around 700°f to 800°f coming out of the lower gasifier at the cross over pipe going to the cooling tubes or into the hot filter. The wood gases will cool quickly down from there. At the grate it is 1500°f to 1700°f in running temperatures. At these temperatures you should be making good gases to flare. If your wood is to wet, over 18 % moisture your gases will be wet and it mighty be harder to flare.
This is your third run and your char bed probably has not fully settle in yet. Be careful not to disturb the char bed is needs to settle in to make good wood gases. Part of the 75% of running a gasifier. Be patient.
It might take a few hopper loads for this to happen. It looked like to me there was a lot of moisture in the flaring smoke. And more coming off the vacuum cleaner. Hope this helps. Your gasifier unit looks great good workmanship on the building of it.
The vacuum read are good.
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Hey Dean, how’s the progress on the truck? I hope your insurance hasn’t thrown a stick into your spokes. I remember there was a Canadian fella that had to remove his gasifier because nobody would insure it. Actually he was from the same province as you if I recall correctly.
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