The flute can be as close as you want. As ash builds up it’ll settle below the flute and make its own insulation.
Where do you plan to set the reactor? The bottom in mine got hot enough to melt the plastic bed liner in my Mazda and I was at least 2 inches off the bottom, 4 if you count the top of the flute holes.
I’d set the reactor on bricks or concrete, it’s what I did.
You will like to have about six inches below your nozzle for ash. The second hole up would be fine for a lighting port. I wouldn’t worry about doubling up you flute nozzle. It is cheap to replace and will last a while as a single Sch 40 nipple.
I had planned to set the reactor on some concrete pads that I get from the local Lowes. The ground here is damp I need to get it off the ground to keep it from rusting anyway.
I spent the last day or so chasing parts and supplies. The MIG needed a new tip and I looked at some pipe fittings. I want to make it as easy as possible to change the nozzle. What I have tentively decided to do is weld a 1-1/4" pipe onto the tank. I was going to drill a cap to accept a 3/4" pipe and weld the two together. I could just unscrew the unit to check it. Anyone have a better idea?
I have been reading through old posts and noticed one where Gary Gilmore was testing using a slot instead of holes on the nozzle. How did this work out? It showed how to clean this through the air pipe without needing a port. I want to keep this unit as simple as possible. The less holes in the tank the less chance for an air leak.
The motor I am going to test run this on is a 6.5hp Predator hooked to a car alternator.
When I cleaned my nozzles I used a poker, just to clear the holes.
I think my poker was part of a windshield wiper rod system or battery tie down. It had a very short nub after a tight 90° bend. Just jammed it in there and poked into each flute hole.
I’d only do a full detail cleaning every once in a while(when I remembered to). I hadn’t been running it long enough to have to scrape slag volcanoes off.
One long slit I think Kristijan and Don Mannes tried out and it didn’t really benefit anything.
This is how I would do it Hag. Weld an Inch and a half coupling to your tank. Get an inch and a half to one inch reducer bushing. Does not need to be stainless. That was the first example I found. Screw an one inch by two inch nipple into the bushing and a three quarter inch sch 40 nipple will slide into both sides of that bushing. Make your nozzle the size you want and fit it into the inside of the bushing into the inch nipple and then another three quarter nipple to the outside. It will be a snug but not air tight fit. Screw a three quarter to half inch T on to that and another short nipple out the back. You will do your water drip into the half inch side of the T with fittings and a needle valve. Where the T and nipple slide into the one inch nipple seal it with a little high temp silicone When you unscrew the bushing the nozzle comes out with it. Way more confusing reading it than doing it.
Do it as Tom suggests , that way when you cant get the poker into some of the holes in the flute its just a simple unscrew and take out , and to replace it you just bang it back in and that will fracture some old coal ready for when you relight , plus it will also crunch up the slag build up around the flute .
I tried grinding a slot in my flute , but only because the pipe i had was stainless and i did not have a sharp enough drill so it was easier to just grind a slot , so long ago i cant remember if it was any better than holes , the one thing i do remember though a slot was easier to poke and clean than 4 holes .
Dave
I’m going to have to go to the “big city” to find 1-1/2" fittings. 1-1/4" is as big as i can find locally. I did try to fit a 3/4" pipe inside a 1" pipe and it did not fit. I believe both were schedule 40. I really like your idea if i can find the parts.
My welding helmet which was over 20 years old finally bit the dust. Waiting on my second replacement this week. The first one arrived D.O.A.
Gary, did the 3/4 to 1 seem like it was sorta close?
Sometimes if you sand down the paint they’ll nest.
I just checked some of my fittings Gary. A sch 40 3/4 nipple will twist inside a sch40 1" nipple. Just the threaded portion. When you go shopping just play around with the fittings and make sure they work for you. If you wanted you could just use the 1 1/4 to 3/4 reducer and weld the fluted nipple to the inside of it. Then just weld a 1 1/4 coupler to the tank. Would work just as well.
The 3/4" and 1" did not seem that close to me. I’m going to have to go back to the store and look again.
I tried too many combinations that they are running together in my mind. What I wouldn’t give for a lathe right now. I think that I was able to get a 3/4" nipple started in the back side of a 3/4" x 1-1/4" bushing.
My new welding helmet comes in tomorrow. Hope this one works.
Later today I’ll dig out some fittings and take a picture of the assembly Gary.
Gary,
Double-tapped tank bushings allow you to screw a pipe in from both sides of the hole. I have not used one, but they are available. I think they would work for what you are trying to do.
Maybe at a plumbing supply SteveB but I have never seen one at a regular hardware or box store. I’ve never looked on-line.
Tom and Gary,
I have ordered a lot of pipe fittings from supplyhouse.com. They have them. Other places may have more size combinations.
Pictures would be great! Thanks
This is what I was hoping to find.
Before I order I have a question. I was told that a 3/4" flute would be sufficient. Is there any benefit to going to 1" for my application?
How many holes should I drill in the flute and what size?
Would a connection fitting added to the end of the flute delay erosion or does most of the heat damage occur around the holes?
1" would be that much of a step up, you’d get more airflow and a bit more mass.
I’d say try to go with 5 holes, one that lines up with the center of the gasifier and evenly branch out from there, but not letting the furthest out holes get within maybe 5 or 6 inches to the walls.
For that 212cc, I’d try it with 5 holes at 3/8".
If you’re just inserting the pipe from one side make sure to plug the other end.
Another way to run this gasifier is a single pipe from the very bottom. Koen VanLooken and Eddy Ramos use this style, though you’ll need stilts or bricks to hold it off the ground. Air coming from the bottom in an updraft keeps the worst of the heat away from the nozzle.
Gary,
Cody’s specs. are good. Here is a link to the bushings I was referring to:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Black-Double-Tapped-Tank-Bushings-11892000
I use a schedule 80 pipe which has a thicker wall than the typical pipe. I have not had any erosion around the holes. I do use a water drip, which helps to cool the pipe and adds hydrogen to the gas.
One big advantage the flute nozzle has is the water has time to turn to steam, and keep the nozzle cool at the same time.
