Just as Tone says, the “aftergassing” affect the glowing charbed alot, the amount of free heat released when engine shut of drives alot of moisture out of the wood in the hopper, a good working “monorator” condenser and dry wood helps the charbed smouldering a long time, this can also be observed if one let it run on idle a period before stopping, this often help the charbed stay alive longer.
The opposite can be observed on a “classical” Imbert (heated bin) if one drives it hard, not long enough, and suddenly stops, it really blows steam out the primary air intake, only 10 minutes after a stop like that it has to be re-light, and that is not an easy task in that case.
I once experienced my old gasified volvo keept glow during a workday, 9hours, this due to extremely dry wood (old furniture and stuff) and a very small leak in the filling lid.
Sure any left over wood will contribute intercellular moisture heat driven out.
I think though most of the moisture will come from actual remaining wood sitting on top of still HOT wood char. That rising heat actually combusting the wood. Products of combustion? CO2 and H2O. Steam made. Note the combusting wood would be an oxygen contributor. Bet more CO made than CO2. The oxygen greedy still hot charcoal.
And all sealed up with only pressure rising forcing out a bit of leakage.
Regardless the best use is to ahead of time minimize fresh wood adds before planned shut downs.
May even to taking the time for wood removal.
Unplanned shut downs with some systems as Goran observed you’d better be wood removing.
Yeah. Dirty messing job aright.
Stationary guy with experiences, talking here.
S.U.
So with my normally pretty wet wood with mc 10%+, if there is enough heat left in the gasifier with adequate amounts of water, it would for a time be a oxygen producing self eating charbed did I get that right? The elements get confusing to me fast…
For a short time, I believe; yes.
The Heat will quench out quicker. Reactions will stop sooner.
I have a woodstove going in burn down to charcoal dangerous overheat and piece to two of 30-40% moisture wet wood settles it right down.
“I’m going to steal your Heat sweety” (adapted movie quote)
S.U.
Hmmm many months ago as I complained on constant wet wood, Bob had the idea at shut down to toss in half a bag to let residual heat bake the wood some and while static condense out some moisture. I did that a lot during the winter months and it helped for a fast startup, while between arrival and lunch hour I would have to relight. Lately I have been running on dry hardwood, 10%-mc. Less water, less heat lost, longer active char, coupled with Wayne’s experience of hardwood. Makes sense to me now
First video i forgot to post in this thread, second video is the newest. Interested to see how this smaller camshaft and low stock compression will do on woodgas
Didn’t know they had a tool to pop out that pilot bushing. I thought that was what they invented wonder bread for. At least that was how I was taught to do it. 
You can then roll the rest of the bread up into dough balls and us it as bait to fish for carp because you would be wise to not eat it. You know the old saying. “The whiter the bread, the sooner you are dead”.
I have used bread, wet newspaper, and grease with a bolt before to hydraulic the bushing out they all work this one is just so much faster!
4 uncooked tater tots and a bolt. 
Alright it is running and ready for wood gas.
Bob
Marcus, I see you’re going wide open with Christmas preparations. Good work - as always 
The wife and kids are away at her dads for early Christmas so I figured I better use my time wisely and get this truck back on the road and all the little repairs done since it burns so much less wood then the dodge does. Problem right now is I have a bunch of lumber I need to chunk up but its frozen hard as a rock with all the ice we got the last 2 days! So staying in the shop where the welder can keep me warm. Fiddling around with installing the rear tank, somehow I always end up a few hose clamps short of what I need…
Looks great , i got too mount one like that on my dakota, you might not get any free tar, putting the drain pipe that close too the bottom of the tank, I THINK or is the tar tank drain on the hopper water drain.? I am suprized you fit that big hopper and hay filter / exchanger , all in a little toyota pickup, years ago i had two toyota pickups, in the 1980’s they might have been smaller bodys.? What year is your toyota truck,
This one is a 81 cab and bed with an 83 nose and core support ( I like the square headlightsof the 82-83 trucks better then the round ones of 79-81)
This is the rear condesate tank that picks up all the moisture fron the cooling rails, no tar in this one unless I really screw something up!
The 79-88 pickups all had interchangeable beds with identical bed soace as long as it was the same wheel base, the earlyier pre 79 trucks were quite a bit smaller, much like the chevy luv of that era. I could have built this tighter in the bed for more bed space but i was planning on big rig stacks/exhaust preheaters in the bed but didnt leave quite enough room for them
Its been so long ago my 81 toyota truck i had the 1.8 or 2.0 motor, 24 mpg was great milege back when i drove it few years. My dad had a little ford carrier pick up, they were quit small of a truck. Your toyota must get better mp pound of wood, and a little extra power, with the v8 in it, i might put a v8 in a s10 or toyota ,if i find a decent truck body. Since i got too many chevy parts, let sit around.
Heat exchanger drop box rebuild is sloooooowwwllly coming along
Looking good Marcus, not sure on how heavy of a gage of metal you are using. You can weld some angle pieces on the sides to keep it from flex poping when under a vaccum pull on the gasifier.
Bob
This is the same 14 gauge sheet i had a bunch of im impressed how stout it is now its all welded up. When it was just fkat sheets its a little weak feeling but better theb the 18 gauge drums i had on there by a mile. Ran into a unfortunate measuring mistaje just now though, the heat exchanger is getting rebuilt so it wont fit now. Going to be 5" diameter instead of the 7" it was before. Oh well, good thing i like building stuff and sticking it together with hot metal glue gun!