Marcus your starting to sound like one of those evil DOW folks!
That is great, that moving the restriction opening up closer to the nozzles is giving you a much better throttle response. Your heat spiking should take longer to happen now, because your hot lobe is farther away from the grate now. It has to burn through your charcoal reserves to get to the grate and cause a heat sike on the cooling rails.
Thank you for keeping us all posted on your progress in fine tuning your WK Gasifier.
Bob
It seriously make me wonder if the fire tube could be shorter for a smaller engine build, say 16" overall length. I know some have had success with the 10" diameter version, maybe the 12" would be fine with a shorter length. Still have adequate char reserves, shorter over all gassifier, more room for larger hopper for longer range, still big diameter to aid with flow of chunks. Itās something that potentially could be tested, just not something I need so probably not tested by me
Yes Marcus, if you look at the Imbert gasifers design they use High velocities from the nozzles and a shorter distances to the restrection opening. This is why I moved my distance up from the original 8 nozzles 12" fire tube design. I put 4 more nozzles in place to create a more even flow around inside the firetube of air entering in with smaller nozzles holes. My thinking was this, all the air has to go by the restrection opening no matter what. If I move the restrection opening up closer to the nozzles it changes the angle slope of the air moving because the ash cone taper angle has change. With the build in turn down ratio for heat in the firetube with the two preheat heatexchangers, one engine muffler and two drop box it is a win win. The Imbert Gasifer are great for make really good gases at the design velocity loads. But suck if the velocity drop off and the heat drops off.
My next design is going to have this in mind.
I donāt have the height in the Jeep. So this shallow hearth design is going to be used. I have even thought about a 14" firetube in side a regular barrel of 22" with insulation on the out side of the barrel. It is just on paper and in my head right now. Not being done in my present build Iām doing.
Ha yes you have said it, finding free supplies are hard. This build so far has cost me hardy nothing in materials. Just my time, welding gas, and wire. Very low budget build. Even my 1995 4Ć4 Jeep was only $200.00. Try to do it all for under $ 400.00.
Bob
Thanks much for the video Marcus.
We run into a fine balancing act with the gasifier . If the char bed is too loose we run a risk of creating to much heat. If the char bed gets to tall and fine ( tight ) it will strangle the motor . If we canāt breath we canāt work .
Next fill up I think I would shake the grate and add some bigger wood .
With the fir and pine wood you have been burning it makes since that after 4 or 5 days of driving the distance you driving every day that you are full in the bottom of the gasifer barrel. Smaller chunks of wood will slip pass the grate easier than a bigger pieces. If you start out with bigger pieces of wood in the hopper they will become bigger pieces of charcoal going to the grate.
My soft poplar wood works okay if I use larger pieces and not the smaller pieces and fines. And yes my lower barrel fills up fast and needs more frequent dumping when using it.
I learned a trick that Wayne showed. He would dump his charcoal ammo box and then just close it. He did not try to get down and clean it all out. It was very quick and easy. A quick clean out. My thinking is now you have a place for the fines to drop into after shaking the grate. I still like to do the complete clean out if I have time to do it.
It is a quick fix.
It looked like your gauge was running lean the whole time that I saw it working with the high vaccum.
Was everything running good after you made the change over on the restriction opening distance from the nozzles? How about on the vaccum?
Just a thought you have a lot of vine maple over there. Have you tried it in the gasifer yet? I would think your chunker would chunk it up just fine.
Bob
Marcus, youāre right. Now is the time when our efforts start paying off. Diesel hit $11 a gallon here today, gasoline 10-15% ācheaperā 
As Iāve posted earlier Iāve had constipation problems too, with my latest build. Shaking the grate at lightup was sufficiant for shorter trips, but running more than an hour non-stop would sometimes tighten the charbed back up again.
A couple weeks back I finally gave up and mounted a grate shaker - Wayneās style minus the motor. Instead I ran a manual cable into the back seat floor. It seems a couple gentle taps are enough to free thing up - as long as I donāt let the constipation get out of hand. Very convienent to just keep the pedal steady and monitor the vacuum guages as I pull the cable.
Like you said, every gasifier is different. Not to mention fuel stock. We have to deal with it accordingly.
probley wont matter what perticular vortech, unless you running supper clean char gas, would be my guess.
I have not tried vine maple yet but it is on the chunkers menu come summer time. Iām now on about 4 days between complete cleanouts running on the pine, which it seems once it turns to charcoal and gets purged off the grate when I shake it at every light up is very light compared to the charcoal made by the doug fir and cherry and therefore gets sucked up against the insulation very easily. after the restriction change it settled in pretty quickly and vacuum was a nice and free 2/1 for about 30-40 miles, then would start climbing as the char bed clogged up. On my last video was when I discovered the fuel change from fir to pine was causing my firetube to clog up quickly and so I started making the pine chunks bigger to try and reduced that issue. It does not seem to have made much of a difference as I need to shake the great every day when I light it. When I was running primarily doug fir I never once needed to shake the grate no matter how many miles I traveled, it always sat right about 3/1 on the doug fir. So just a educated guess on my part, my system seems to like the doug fir much better then the pine for longer distance drives and less maintenance. The cherry wood gives similar vacuum ratios as the doug fir. And I am seeing more soot made by the pine, I am now cleaning out the cooling rails weekly and hay filter every other week. Now that being said the truck runs great on the pine chunks, good power with a little less mileage between fill ups. It just requires a different maintenance schedule then the other woods I have ran through the truck so far. Each wood for fuel is like relearning how the system will operate and then learning how to get peak performance from that wood. So far my favorite is a mix of doug fir and cherry, it seems to get the best power and torque and the best mileage with the least amount of soot, and doesnāt clog up the char bed and very rarely does it clog in the lower barrel
diesel crested 6$ a gallon here yesterday, fuel prices up over a dollar a gallon in the last week everywhere around me and no sign of stopping. will be over 7$/gallon in the next week at this rateā¦going to bite the bullet and buy a piece of firetube from a local steel dealer here for 100$ since I cant seem to find one anywhere to get the next build rolling. At these fuel prices it will cost 200$ to fill my dodge which I will be using a lot this month as I moveā¦ not looking forward to that in the slightest, probably fill it 5 times to move 15 miles hauling my trailer back and forth. Goin to use the wood burner for anything I can fit in or on it, looking for trailer wiring for it right now so I can haul my small trailer with it as well
So very true Marcus.
For years I ran 100% pine and created a lot of soot in the cooling rails and intake manifold . The last couple years I have ran 100% oak and I have less problem with soot .
I think come summer time Iām going to follow your lead and start hunting down what hardwoods I can find and store them away. Vine maple, big leaf maple, the odd oak and wild cherry and the few I know of that I will be able to get my hands on in quantity locally. And store whatever I can get of doug fir. Not saying I will pass on anything else in these fuel price crisis times but I need to try other fuels to find out how well they will perform. Iām even more curious if the v10 will respond differently then the little truck on each fuel
I watched your last video a few times. Something in the video was telling me to watch it again and again. The high vaccum causes the fuel gasoline to siphon? Your fuel in the carburetor is empty in the gas bowl right. No a little gas is going into bowl and then running out faster then it can come into the bowl. So you are get surging of fuel on and off again into the intake. Right? On a fuel injection it would be more of a steady small stream so no surging would be noticed.
I think there is something to look at with the fuel injection carburetor replacements if your are using a carburetor.
Bob
At about 15 inches in the rails it will begin to siphon gasoline through the electric fuel pump that is shut off and slowly fill up the float bowl until it can get a little out of the jets. Above 25 inches it will draw so hard on the carb it will get a small gush of gasoline, which momentarily raises rpm and vacuume and gets a good squirt of gasoline. Then gasoline is burned up and vaccume drops. Motor starts looking for more fuel from gassifier which is to restricted to supply the needed fuel and vacuume starts to raise the cycle repeats itself causing the surging idle and lurching of the truck. At high rpm it can continually siphon a small amount of gasoline while running on the wood gas, hybrid driving but not in any way controlled be me as the operator. Lower rpm and no siphoning is happening, but not enough woodgas up to the engine to have any amount of power. Its a vicious cycle but I can drive it that way somehow. Just need to start cleaning things out more often and keep it from happening
Have you thought about every morning just open up the ammo box and dump it while it is cool. A quick dump, then see how long it takes to fill the lower gasifer barrel. You might only have to do it on a weekly basis. I have only let my gasifer lower barrel and drop box area get to full once, way to high of vaccum. Collapsed my plastic filter barrel. Lol
Do not want to do that again.
Bob
I could try that, problem seems to be the size of the char that gets slipped off the grate is large enough to get caught between the firetube capsule and the sheetmetal insulation in the lower barrel. I will have a follow up video doing a clean out later today showing the problem
Have you ever thought of opening your ash door and putting a blast of air to the cooling rails with a leaf blower .