Nozzles for Charcoal gasifiers, part 2

You probably needed a break anyway. Hope you are feeling well soon.

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Yeah we built over 60 machines last year. But things slowed way down November so Ive been pretty laxed. But now is the next market cycle so things will be ramping back up here soon. :slight_smile:

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Thats averaging more than 1 a week, plus all your r and d. impressive

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Matt, I pray that The YEHOVAH God Almighty will heal you back up completely for His Name sake and give you strength for this up coming year with many blessings in and by His word the Son Yeshua to you and your work place and the people that work for you.
60 units last year is a big blessing, that is making more than one a week for your business. With the man power you have is that about the limit you can make? Or can you make a lot more in a week?
Very impressive.

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Roughly 6 units a month!! Yes with two people but we no longer build one machine at a time. Ive adopted mass production models its way faster and easier that way.

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Ok I got some Pics!!

So here this is a 3/4 inch nipple with a 1/2 inch nipple inserted into the 3/4. When the 3/4 nipple is threaded into the 1 to 3/4 bushing it locks it in place as NPT is a tapered thread. You can cut slits into the end of the 3/4 nipple to help compress and bite down if needed.



So here inside there is a step where the 1/2 inch nipple ( nozzle ) is inserted. So if the water drip is left on after a stall or shut down; it cant leak into the reactor. Orient one of the air intake holes in the cap down so it can drain out instead.

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That step also creates turbulance to further atomize the water into the air stream.

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So those three hole are the total intake air going into the gasifier or is there another intake for more air?
I like it Matt great thinking on the water intake nozzle and auto drain water out.

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Nope the old version had four holes and that was plenty for the engine range the gasifier is designed to run. Having the 3 instead just turns up the volocity it will probably work better at atomizing the air with the water and do a better job at breaking the surface tension. I doupt the engine is going to care. But Ive been wrong before lol

If not then you can always punch more holes in the 3/4 inch nipple.

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The only thing that I think that matters is the total combined area of the intake holes needs to match or be greater than the ID of the nozzle. I think these 5/16 holes are about the same area or a little more the ID of the 1/2 pipe nozzle. I have not done the math as I can just look at it.

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I admittedly haven’t read all of both parts to this topic, but I’ve been thinking of another nozzle idea. Not sure how well it would hold up in the long run.

Imagine a water jacketed nozzle, but instead of the jacket always filled with water you have a water drip. At the 12 o’clock position in the nozzle wall you have a small hole for the steam to escape into the nozzle and go into the reaction.

The jacket is essentially there just to hold in the water drips and allow it to boil away, and the vent being at the 12 o’clock position in the nozzle wall is so only steam is injected. My line of thinking is instead of worrying about cooling the water for the jacket and metering any steam generated, you just meter the amount of water added. Since there’s always a vent it shouldn’t run the risk of overpressure.

Just an idea that’s been rattling around in my head.

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Yup thought of this too and would like to experiment someday with it. The only reason I have not tried is simply the complexity of it verses the simplicity of current design. But yeah the more steam we can inject while sustaining temp parameters for reaction = more powerful / reliable gas output. I really think we can push water injection much farther than any current system. Based on what I have learned from this years CFX I think we can achieve 50/50 gas energy density. (50% from water and 50% from charcoal) If that can be achieved charcoal will be hands down more efficeint than a direct wood fueled gasifier.

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I think it will self regulate too. You just dump the water in full bore after the nozzle is up to temp. The water jacket will need to be sized correctly so its not over absorbing heat and cooling too much. Then it will sort of perkulate like a coffea pot.

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Or you just make the outlet hole small enough where surface tension is now our friend :). The steam isnt going to care how big that hole is as long as it can escape and not back feed the water tank.

Dang you!! now I got to build it!! lol

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I figure if you begin the drip when starting up you’ll have a good prime inside the jacket, and the drip will just ensure it won’t overfill. It would take maybe 5 minutes from light for the water to begin boiling I’d assume.

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You know I wonder if we were to use the ceramic gasket material inside that chamber it would act as a wick. Then it would surely self regulate plus it would make building it easier. Think of the kerosene heaters with the wicks. I might be overthinking but this maybe a plan B if flows are difficult to control without a wick inside.

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Either the gasket or maybe fiberglass wool or rockwool?

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Yup might be over kill and over thinking though. But yeah anything that will hold in there should work.

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It seems like something to experiment with. One of my worries would be the nozzle acting as a Venturi and sucking water through the vent hole. Especially if it’s overfull. A wick would help I think.

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Sounds like a feature, not a problem :slightly_smiling_face: . Call it a “main metering jet” and you’re off to the races. Add a needle valve to regulate the self-regulating. I should go look for a small-engine carb that wouldn’t rust (unlikely as that sounds).

edit: Oh, and put it outside the nozzle shut off valve, so water doesn’t get sucked in (or smoke blown out) at shut down.

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