Well however you do it i wish you success i really hope you managed to tame the flaming hell pit , good luck is what i say
Dave
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I just run a wooden dowel though mine to clear the end of the nozzle and get some new char to drop in front of it. No real risk of breaking. I also have another simple fire that I built with a horizontal air feed to a elbow with a Bryan White style pipe cap nozzle. I haven’t taken the time to run it much since I built it and I guess it would have to be cleared down through the hopper like the downdrafts. I’m going to have to start running that and see how it works.
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Since my nozzle is vertical, I just use a piece of stiff wire to poke up through the bottom to clear the holes of any slag and get fresh charcoal next to the holes. Tom, I have been thinking about building one like your version of mine to make water drip a little bit easier, but yes, then it would probably have to be cleared from above.
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Bryan, I think with just a small copper line pointing up to the nozzle it’ll get hot enough to turn to steam. Eddy Ramos does that with his gasifier in the Ford Ranchero.
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Yeah, that’s basically how I am doing it now for the water drip. It seems to work okay. I was just wondering if a horizontal inlet would be better.
Actually, I have been entertaining the idea to try one of these as a “flute style” nozzle:
It’s a natural gas manifold with 3/4 inch inlets on both ends and four 1/2 inch outlets on top. I would have both ends connected to the air inlet and then it would basically be 1.5 inches of throughput.
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Depending on the engine that’s a lot of nozzle space. I powered a 2 liter engine with 5 1/2" holes.
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Cody,
Did you find the 5 - 1/2 inch holes to be adequate for all RPM with the 2 liter engine?
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Oh yeah for sure. I had to stay in the mid RPM range most of the time. Climbing hills in 3rd gear at 45mph for example. Fastest I went was 55 in 4th gear, so probably about 3000 RPM or more I think? I didn’t have a tachometer. The Mazdas owners manual had a rough guide on when you should shift. 1st to 2nd gear at 20, 2nd to 3rd at 30, 3rd to 4th at 40, 4th to OD at 45~50. That was on gasoline so I bumped my mental shift points up 10mph.
I had a flute with both ends open. Water drip around 1-2 per second using a stainless steel straw as the end of the drip pipe so probably 1/4" ID maybe a hair smaller.
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It makes me wonder. On the toyota I shift the same rpm as gasoline. The dodge maybe 2-300rpm higher then gasoline. At one time I had a Honda civic with a california spec hiway gear trans. 1st gear 0-40mph. 2nd gear 40-80, 3rd gear 80-120. 4th and 5th were useless. Cruise 125mph at 1000rpm in 5th gear. Very strange car, wonder how that gearing would have reacted on char or woodgas…
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Your Yota is a whole different animal now. The small block pushing that little thing around dont care what fuel its running on. Man I really miss mine and still have dreams about that truck, I wish I would have never let it go. 
Yeah that 1st gear was sort of a pain with out power steering. It was really short and when turning it was hard to shift. Starting in second I could tell it was hard on the clutch.
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I’m having a hard time picturing you driving a Civic Marcus. Kind of like Grizzly Adams in a mini cooper.
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I have had several of then actually. I treated then like trucks that got good gas milage. Hauling around cherry pickers and engines, fishing boat strapped to the roof. I would not have thought twice about a bumper mounted char systen on one if I knew what I know now. Probably would get less strange looks then the cherry picker sticking out both front windows and me only able to hit 1st 3rd and reverse gears 
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Has anyone ever seen this kind of nozzle?
maybe it could make a good charcoal nozzle!
Thierry
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Is it made of bronze? Looks like something for a water hose.
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Hi Cody
I don’t know if it’s bronze. this metal seems very hard and very heavy
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See if a file can bite into it. Bronze is more yellow than copper depending on the alloy. It could just be a well preserved steel, hard to tell without it in front of me.
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hello, i stumbled in this thread somewhere upward over this water-cooled nozzle design…
i wonder wether water -inlet and water -outlet is signed in opposite way for thermo syphon system??..or maybee it was connected to the car - waterpump…than doesnt matter…
gohin poulenc has had its water cooled nozzle in horizontal position, i have read there were 2 possibilities: 1. nozzle connected with the water pump of the car …2… and the other method with a water reservoir in the trunk of the car…in the second case a horizontal nozzle works with thermo-syphon system, how i understood…
the gohin poulenc nozzle was inside divided by lenght by a separating sheet… the cold water travels in the under side to the nozzle tip, there heats up and on the upper side goes back to the water tank…can this work in thermo-syphon system??
has someone practical or theoretical experience? the nozzle of chuck w is slooped downwards, is this better for thermo siphon? is his nozzle inside divided like the gohin poulenc design?
ciao giorgio
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Hi Giorgio, those water-cooled nozzles was often led to a separate cooler radiator, working only “thermosyphonic” (no pump) they used to boil of some little when shut-down. The radiator had a reservoir tank in the top part.
Im going to post some schematics i have on, for example Volvo’s water cooled nozzle if you want?
I believe these nozzles disapeared during wartime because of lack of antifreeze, one had to empty them after every drive, this also lead to heavy rusting.
Seems countries/places with warmer climate than Sweden for example, used water-cooled nozzles to more extent.
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Im not a big fan of anything that pulls energy away from the hearth. May not seem like much but it all adds up.
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thanks göran, i am glad if you can post some examples …freezing is here no problem, i think wit the nozzle for my new motorcultivator- gasifier… with the 550 ccm engine i think the nozzles need some cooling…i have a nice copper tube coil on my scrap…this can be good for cooling the water circuit…
ciao giorgio
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