yesterday we took our new project to home…we could not resist to take this bearish engine, has a lot of gear reduction, should work fine also with some less power on chargas
should run in future on 100% chargas
…with help from the forum friends…
but first must be finished the fiat tractor…
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This indeed looks like the same engine l have on my tractor.
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kristijan, indeed seems the same engine…
there is a mechanism(where the finger shows) , blocked from one of the previous owners…
what is it good for?
for block the gears on steep terrain in way they cannot jump out?
it goes to the gear lever
is on your tractor the same mechanism?
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Giorgio, no, seems the engine is where the simularitys end.
Culd be, and probably its a good safety measure. I never had mine jump out of gear bit many times the PTO jumps out on high loads. Gears are worn out.
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I have a Pasquali 988 that i restored. As you suggest that is a lock pin to hold the transmission in gear. I thought it was weird myself but that inline transmission is very easy to shift onto the edge of the gear and think you have it fully in gear. I thought when i bought the tractor it would be a cool transmission with reverse right between 1st and 2nd but what i found is it is easy to not actually get the gear selector in the correct spot. The pin does help there. It has a cable to runs between it and the fork that pulls the clutch out of gear. When you press the clutch the cable from the clutch pulls the fork and that pulls the other cable to releast the pin. It is tricky to adjust the cable took two people one working the clutch while the other could monitor and adjust the cable. I would guess the last owner couldn’t adjust the cable correctly and blocked the pin.
Those tractors are geared so low they will pull the world until the run out of traction you can’t stop them.
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Pasquali has a cool design in that they used a very module design. The motor on mine has an adaptor plate between the transmission and the motor. I know there where two engine options for mine from the factory both diesel but i assume it would be easy to adapt to many standard engines the same general size.
Parts for them in North America are all but impossible to get now though. I was lucky to restore mine when i did.
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hello dan, i don´t know if it can be helpful for you…here some split designs of a simil pasquali as yours…maybe useful when is to work something on the machine…
recently i dismantled the steering column, and i was a bit disappointed, the inner screw of the steering system is made from plastic and therefore exposed to more consume …
needs no grease in this way, but…so , also with other consumed screws from other things, i have always thought how to replace the inner screw…
maybee a solution would be winding a metal stripe around the outer screw…
than with another stripe filling the voids between the first stripe…
than welding the stripes together…
should be a solution…
my brain looks always for solutions when a problem raise up…spare parts no available more
maybee your pasquali has a hydraulic steering though
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Mine does have the hydraulic steering. There is a thread here somewhere i posted when i did the full restoration. I am sure if you search for pasquali you can find it.
That plastic thread sounds like a nightmare problem to have to deal with but your idea sounds reasonable to me. The other option might be to retrofit a rack and pinion set from something else to replace the plastic with metal.
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pasquali got new shoes…a lot of work…some drills on work, for not overheating them when drilling 8 mm steel
next step will be converting the diesel engine to chargas…like tone has done with his tractor
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That explains it. When I saw the second pic I was more imagining you with eight arms as an octopus working with all of them at once 
Nice work Giorgio, next step will be interesting 
Edit: I now saw that you made the rims too for the pasquali from old car rims with added diameter. Very clever. Will store that in the back of my head for future use 
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the rims were the original from pasquali, the outer “ring” has 8mm and is 15 cm wide…here was needed help from the local mechanican with his bending machine…otherwise a problem !
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Giorgio, first some math,…
You have an LDA 100 engine, this engine has a working volume of 707 cc and a CR of 1:17, which means that the compression volume is 43 cc. In order to reduce the CR to 1:13, it is necessary to increase the compression space to 60 cc, this could be achieved with an additional 2mm gasket, well, you know me, I would go to the piston conversion, slightly enlarge the combustion chamber, cut off the top of the piston a bit … 
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tone, i am always thankful when you help me with this kind of calculations…
i would also prefer the version with the piston ecc…but will not spoil the motor since i dont know if it really works fine in all aspects…so i am looking for an old motor , same model, to make the modifications on piston and motorhead first on this victim…if it goes well, i have another high compression wood-char- gas motor, never wrong…
i must ask again for the old rusty pasquali in the bushes near the mail box…but the owner, first he wanted to throw it on the scrap…since i have shown interest, it has value for him…
a problem, a complicated person…
but there is another tractor, a goldoni, with the same motor in the neighborhood, will ask there, maybee it is easier there…
https://www.forum-macchine.it/forum/lavori-agricoli-e-forestali/macchine-agricole/sos-officina-agricola/74382-pasquali-946-in-officina/page2
and
http://herve.cochard.free.fr/tracteurs/Pasquali-Service-Manual.pdf
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motor type…4 LD 705 (707 ccm)
piston (cylinder) diameter 100 mm
course stroke 90 mm
rpm 3000
for first try the version of 2 gaskets will be the easiest…
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i am actually think about the right spark plug for this motor…when i see it right , a spark plug must reach the temperature to be able to burn away the soot in way it gives a relieable spark during operation…when the spark plug is too cold , soot accumulates, when the spark plug is too hot, electrodes burn away with a while…
a hot spark plug has a long deep inner electrode in way the heat transfer to the outer mass needs more time and keeps the electrode more or less hot…
a colder spark plug has the inner electrode more short, in way the heat transfer to the outer mass happens more fast and keeps the electrode on a lower temperature…
the right spark plug heat value must be tried out, because different motors have different combustion temperatures…
are my conclusions right?
i have a lot of 14 mm thread spark plug here for testing, but unfortunately the diesel motorhead , because of limited space, allows only a 12 mm or 10 mm spark plug probably…
so, for not buying a lot of spark plugs for testing the right heat value…who has experience with converted diesels?..mostly i think tone…
what heat value aproxximately has the right spark plug?
maybee , tone , if you find besides your actually work some time to show me your spark plug heat value of your fergie ?
thanks giorgio
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Giorgio, I have NGK LPG1 spark plugs for my Fergi,.
and I have this one ready for the Jenbacher engine,…
I don’t know what temperature class they have, but they work well.
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today we finished the new inner thread from the pasquali steering mechanism…the original was made from plastic (shame) and very worn out…
we used metal from bucket handle…
important when winding around the thread is to have a thin tessute between metal rod and thread as spacer, otherwise the windings are too close and not moveable…
it has double winding…
important also during welding always contol if the parts yet are moving…because of weld bending.
as soon as possible we will have a look to the motorhead to see what possibilities are with the spark plugs
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That is a very impressive repair. Definitely beyond anything i have attempted.
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