2021/ 4 / 15
Thanks Max, @gasman I will be able to place this plank design into my new WK Gasifier hopper design with the (HWLOTF) Hopper Wood Loading On The Fly design also. I will be using the WK condensation tubes on the the outside of the single hopper wall barrel.
The diagram drawings are a big help.
This plank design might be the first WK gasifer build. I am not sure if anyone has built one and have it operating on a WK gasifer. Chris is close to finishing his, but other things right now are more important.
I liked how @Chris Saenz incorporate the plank in his gasifer design with the baffling and side support flex spacers. The lifting hangers is a big plus.
The gases leaving my drop box is 400Ā° f or 204.4 Ā° c this is a great temperature for drying wood quickly and driving the moisture out of the wood and the tars with this extra free temperature in the hopper. A Win Win it and a big plus for the gasifer.
I was going to go with the smaller hopper opening for loading wood but with the plank in the hopper the larger hopper lid that is on the Dakota gasifer makes more sense to me for get down into the firetube for maintenance work. Both lid designs will work. With all the improvements on this build it will make a great Genset gasification unit too, because I will be getting this extra drying heat in the hopper even with out the preheated air.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
16.3.2021
I am glad to hear an upnote report! Wish to see a drawing of it
(with proportions)
Let me know how it proceeds!
Are you ready before Chris?
Max
20/4/15
I followed Chrisās WK gasifier build right up to when he showed the unfinish unit at Argos DOW event. I hope some day he finishes it up. I just know it is going to work
Is so compact and a light weight unit.
Compared to the normal WK Gasifier design build.
I am working on a drawing in my head right now.
I am thinking on putting a clean out cap at the top of the plank for maintenance when cleaning. When I do my drop box cleaning out of soot build up I will clean the plank out at the same with my air hose. I will get it on paper and show you what I am thinking with the plank.
Bob
I like the plank idea for the reason you want to put it there, but I have concerns about restricting the hopper to the point that the fuel flow is hampered especially if tar on the plank is involved. Maybe the heat of the plank will keep that from happening we hope.
Yes Don, I have been thinking about that too.
I figured the heat will just cause the tar on the plank to drip into the firetube, this will mean more gases being produced like @trikebuilder57 Al Frick is doing in His truck. It sure does not stay on my hopper walls at the top, but does collect at the very bottom of my hopper with the fine wood chips. The lowest part of the plank will be above my bottom tar gutter and it flows hot tar out of there to my tar collection tank in my other gasifer. The plank will be in the upper half of the hopper maybe a little lower. The good news is that I was going to have a metal bar where the plank will be for my sliding chute box would be for guiding the wood into my hopper when refueling. Now I have the plank to do it. The wood will now scrape the tar off the plank. Lots of designing going on in my head and on paper.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
16.3.2021
In the nick of time Steve reminded of the condensing after the silo heating with the plank.
As we have been reminded by J-O and some others, a FAST and EFFECTIVE condensing as fast and near the silo as possible araises the question:
Do you have enough place on the right side under the āload planeā , or are the mufflers there in the way for a proper condensing tank?
This question comes from J-O:s complaint of too long tubes to the āback-tankā with clogging long tubes!
If the mufflers moved āsomewhere elseā a condensing tank could hopefully be managed on the right side, near the siloā¦???
Tube down directly from the silo-plank to the condensing tank, and then upward to cooler tubes (downflowing condense).
Max
2021 / 3 / 15 09:00 pm
The hopper will have condensation tubes on the out side of the hopper the top gutter in the hopper drains into these tubes. The tar moisture condensation moves down the tubes and to the lower gutter then into the condensation tank that will be next to the lower part of the gasifer or silo keeping it warm but not hot/boiling. The tank has a stand pipe in it that will drain the top half of the tank off ( black water) the bottom of the tank has a 2" cap opening to drain off the tar and black water when needed. In the winter months I will beable to pull the insulation out between the lower part of the gasifer or silo. The tar/black water condensation tank that is on the right side of the gasifer lower part will be kept warm in winter months. On my 92 Dakota truck I have a hard time draining my tar/ back water tank on the right side of the gasifer because it is to far from the lower part of the gasifer silo and hidden inside the side panel of the truck side panel separated by a steel plate. This is okay down south in Alabama where it does not freeze all winyer but not so good up here in the north 48th parallel.
I need to change this on the 92 Dakota truck. Boiling water down the upper gutter works for now on a warmer winter days.
The condensation tank after the cooling rails are going to be 2 tanks on the inside of the trucks bed left and right sides below the cooling rails. If they get to much water in them they will over flow into the lower part of the hay filter. all tanks will have 2" cap drains and the hay filter barrel.
I like that Idea of the plank exit pipe heating the tar tank. I might incorporate that with a valve to direct heat that direction through the tank if needed but not in the summer months. I would have boiling tar vapors going back up into the hopper if shut down and parking the truck. I have never had any problems with the condensation tank after the cooling rails with water freezing.
On the left side of the lower part of the gasifer silo will have the pre heater mantle for the gas going back up after going through the paper filters. I was hoping I could do this in the back bed of the truck also and put insulation around the return pipe to the mixer at the engine.
What do you think on this working with the gases.
Thank you both for this valuable input.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
16.3.2021
A clarifying drawing or picture helps to get a clear oversight of the system at this stage of developmentā¦
Max
Hi, Bob!
22.3.2021
ā¦ On the left side of the lower part of the gasifier, the silo will have the preheater mantle for the gas going back up after going through the paper filters.
Why not preheating before the paper filter?
Max
22/3/2021
Hi Max, Okay help me out here to try to understand the principal of using a paper final filter before the gas goes into the engine.
Is the gas reheated after the cool gas comes out of the Hayfilter?
If yes. Then can it be reheated and then go through the filter, then up to the engine. But have the paper filter back at the gasifer area and not up front in the engine compartment area? I am just trying to keep everything possible in the bed of the truck.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
23.3.2021
After the wet and āmellowā hay filter, the gas is certainly pretty wet, as it has been step by step cooling down since rising through the plank and at each step since combustion losing heat energy.
That would not be enjoyable for a paper filter used to dry and comfortable working conditions.
So, where do we find an āearly onā warmer and comfortably dry
working location?
The straight answer to your question is YES. And Yes!
Very good. The paper filter near the heat exchanger, so no new cooling gets it wet!.
And, keep the paper filter also insulated. After that, any new condensation can freeze to
ārim-frostā = icy snow.
Small amounts are not disturbing a warm motors work, but can be a nusens when starting an ice-cold motorā¦
DONāT blow any wet gas trough the paperfilter, BEFORE the gas is really warm from the heatexchanger!
Normal paperfilters withstand 130*C ā¦
Max
Okay so after the paper filter the gas needs to be insulated from cold to the engine intake, would be best. A insulated gas pipe from the filter to the engine compartment then into the mixer box.
Bob
Hi, Bob!
23.03.2021
If the pipe from the heatexchanger and paperfilter are insulated,
WHOLE THE ROUTE!
The less starting and driving troubbles there will be; the colder, the betterā¦ as there is always a water-restā¦
Max