That’s just “fantastic”… My shop’s 50A@220V “RANGE” circuit doesn’t have any outlets attached to it, that I could find.
There’s a 20A@220v circuit labeled “TABLE SAW” with a small outlet; a 30A@220v circuit for the drier which has a outlet for the drier, and a separate set of (capped) wires on the far side of the wall that are on the same “DRIER” circuit; and a 30A@220v circuit hardwired into the water heater.
So yeah… I just bought a useless shiny box to decorate my shelves with for the time being. We can’t afford to have an electrician come out just to fix a “hobby”. In theory, we’re having one out “sometime” to install a high-efficiency heat pump for my mom, but who knows how soon that will be…
Brian, if you know how, you can wire an outlet to the unused 50 amp breaker. Use the correct size wire, and an outlet that matches the plug on the plasma cutter. Wire size is determined by amps, and distance from breaker.
What Al said… get in there and learn some wiring. Copy exactly what you see. assuming its professionally done. Watch some Youtube videos to get all the specifics. Biggest thing is to leave LOTS of slack everywhere.
I’m no electrician either but with some study and a little patience I can generally do at least as well as the pros. I’ve even fixed their mistakes… grrrr.
Short runs are pretty simple to do, if there’s room near the panel. Here’s where I put the welder outlet:
Marvin, I’ve blown a 20A breaker with that machine several times, and a 30a once. I’d go with 50A if you can, at least 30A. You’ll want it for a welder anyhow.
“If you know how…” I think I could figure it out, but electrical also just plain scares the crap out of me and a large part of my brain does not want to explode or cause my machinery/shop to explode.
“Wire size is determined by amps, and distance from breaker.” Optimally, I’d put the outlet about 2 feet down from the breaker panel. I don’t know if there’s some sort of “minimum safe distance” there has to be between them.
Another issue, is that it’s becoming clear that we probably won’t be living here long-term, so I can’t jury-rig things. It has to be done “right” and be able to prove it’s done right. This was just the best option in the timeframe that we needed to move in. That said, this house is “too much house” for my elderly mother and I; there’s a lot of stuff that we would have done very differently; and the land is so-so.
Why not simply go with the 120 volt connection since you are bothered by the 240 setup? Note that Chris said it works either way.
Another alternative would be to find a friend who has the skills needed to install a 240 volt outlet for you. Maybe trade some of your labor for the work.
That brings up a really interesting point: I’m not sure this machine really CAN be used 110v, except maybe under faulty outlet conditions. It’s quite confusingly written. Yay for Chinese Engrish…
The manual gives instructions on installing the power cord, but mine came hardwired with an L6-30P/YGA-01 plug (30A250V~)
Under wiring instructions: “All of our machines are either 110VAC or 220VAC. The 110VAC machines will operate at 100V-120VAC and 50-60Hz; the 220VAC machines will operate at 200-240VAC and 50-60Hz.”
Back of the machine above the power cord says “INPUT AC 110V-220V”
It pulls 50A, I think that 20 is a typo. At 220V 50A makes 10,000w. At 110V 50A you only get 5,000w. Most breakers are only 15A, so you’ll have to keep it set pretty low for 110. It does work OK on 110, for thinner stuff. I made up a pigtail to run either way. 220 is much better.
It’s not magic and mirrors - I had NEVER done any kind of wiring before and I successfully installed two 220V circuits, one for my 25,000 BTU air conditioner, and another for my Harbor Freight MIG welder. If I can do it ANYbody can.
Of course, I live in a rural area where there are no building inspectors.
If that’s not the case for you, then you should try to make friends with a licensed electrician and work out a barter arrangement.
I got good news and I got bad news: the bad news is that I made an ass out of myself.
The good news is that I just found the “RANGE” circuit outlet in the shop… Of course, it was the outlet with the drier plugged into it, so I Ass/U/Me’d that that outlet was on the DRIER circuit. 9_9
Now I just need a “cheap” conversion cable for the plug/outlet and I should be cutting steel soon!
:EDIT: Did someone order a 6’ (2m) extension/conversion cable for a plasma cutter?
Kyle I can tell you which one NOT to buy it is made by CAL ELECTRIC in California on E BAY they advertise a 1 year warranty but they will not answer warranty claim even if you get E BAY after them.
Does anyone know if one needs to/should grind plasma-cut edges before MIG welding like one does with oxy-acetylene? I’m thinking not since plasma “just” melts through while oxy-acetylene is actually burning the steel out of the way.
There’s usually some slag, you don’t need to grind it off if you can knock it off with a hammer or a file. I usually like to clean up the edges anyway, unless the plasma did a perfectly straight job. Just looks better.
Hi brian,i havent had much time too adjust mine yet either,I heard matt say if we get the speed a little slower,it leaves less slag,it may depend on thickness of metal and heat setting,sure cuts fast though.Getting ready too use mine too make trailer out of old toyota motor home frame.After i get the motor and dash wires ,steering coulom, out for my s10 truck.
Hey Brian, It never hurts to grind(clean) anything before you weld.The thicker the metal the more tapper(bevel) should be ground into it, so the weld has more to fill, makes for a stronger weld. Al
My Lotos 520 220 v plasma cutter died yesterday. When turned on everything lights up but as soon as the trigger is pulled the overtemp light comes on
Fan still runs
I probably have 2 hours of use over the last 11 months and burned up less than 10 tips, about 1/2 of those during the learning curve,
Bob Mackey advised that he got about 20 min of use from his before it died.
I sure looked long and hard at a hypertherm 30 ($1400) but since HF had a coupon $50 off their 50 amp machine I will take one for the team at $650.
Got it set up and it has the triggered start for dirty metal and a 10 sec cool down when the trigger is released
It cut 1/2" metal clean and reasonably fast so I am pleased with it so far.
