I was taught years ago that a current can be passed through a light bulb (DC or AC) and safely pass it through to a load based on the bulb’s wattage rating allowing no illumination until an overload causes it to or worse yet - bulb burnout. Simple and effective. You can wire up sockets in parallel or series to hunt for the ultimate coverage. Capacitors are typically safely shorted out with around a 10 watt bulb going from bright to fade out.
I had an spdt switch wired in with my bilge start blower along with a 12V backup / reverse light bulb as I was leaving it in line and didn’t want it to free wheel while I was pulling through it on my trips like to Argos. A couple of times I saw it glow a bit. Wayne used to have one under his truck in line for back blowing but it fried. I have that radiator fan on my cooler and when I’m going down the road it spins and charges the battery on that trailer like a wind turbine. Just took a few diodes to make that work. I have found over the years that the more complicated you make a process, the more likely it is to fail. Guess I better check the trailer battery before we go back into the deep freeze. Mike
Chris, I was actually able to watch your video. I noticed yesterday that my brake fluid was near gone. I had to park the trailer for safety reasons. I haven’t spotted any leaks yet to repair. Regards, Mike