Those were the good ol days. LOL
You can make a kind of carburetor that way too. 
Don’t knock it. It works. But you won’t get hundreds of miles per gallon. TeeheHehe.
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Charcoal on screen kept burning and melted plastic trough below I used to dry wood chips
I do not quench char . I put it in metal can , put metal lid on can and put metal weight on top of lid .
I have new transfer switch . Paid over $100 never used .
have wire and more wire .
I think this is generator I need
PWM3652-5458-4 Technical Specifications
Motor Type: PWM
Product Code: FGP1403
Voltage (DC): 220
Current (Amps): 12
H.P.: 3.2
RPM: 3400
Watts: 2386
Enclosure: Open
WIND TURBINE GENERATOR 3.2HP AMETEK PERMANENT MAGNET DC GENERATOR MOTOR PMG
Permanent Magnet DC Motor/Generator
Permanent Magnet DC motors can be used to create electricity using wind power.
I connected a volt meter to it and spun it by hand, easily got 9VDC
It has been thoroughly tested and can also be used as a variable speed motor if you attach a motor controller
This motor is rated at 3.2hp @ 220VDC can produce up to 2386 watts of free energy!
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How many hours do you get on a pair of socks ?
added another gasifier used more 1 1/4 sump pump tubing
stopped air leak , added air filter
start with starting fluid .
Making more charcoal
Flames coming out from under lid
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I have about 180 hours on these four. Most of the time has been close to wide open throttle. I don’t think they have become restrictive yet.
Rindert
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Are you running an engine?
You are making charcoal in an old cookstove? Interesting!!! Please tell me about this.
Rindert
Yes , Yes . Honda tiller motor cub cadet , brought out second motor cub cadet wood chipper . both out of use for years . have not used engine under load just tried to run engine . Run for hours un attended then found stopped with gasifier glowing and valve seized I very much would like to have properly sized pipe . Used half inch pipe and had to take it apart because I needed pipe some place else after scrubbing it with a tooth brush and diesel . I liked the stove , but it was a small stove , The stove is still too small . It needs to be fired twice to make charcoal . Probably something not worth doing but dependable .
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Ahhh. Describing and looking back at your picture I think I may see a “maybe”. Your engine looks to be a Honda engine. I had one in a small Honda tiller to.
These are aluminum piston in an aluminum cylinder bore. Very sensitive to abrasive particulates in the air stream, engine oil and the fuel.
Mine destroyed one summer from the plastics air filter cover getting garden stake whacked off. I did not notice. Destroyed that engine in just 45 minutes with dry garden dirt dust. I had always told myself to vacuum cleaner hose remount an air filter up high on the handles out of the churned-up dust. Just never got around to it. My bad. (actually the equipment’s design engineer bad.)
Valves are steel into aluminum cylinder head metals. Stuck because of metals galling?
A charcoal gasifier is going to go super hot and CO “lean” at tailend of production.
Unattended is not a good idea.
Use this heat. Use the engine power/RPM loss to set up a positive shut down system.
S.U.
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I have thought the speed reduction for a rototiller might be good to make a chunker. Any thoughts?
Rindert
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Okay, I have made an attempt to do science. I collected three coffee cans full from my cache. I tried to get the samples from as different places as I could. I baked the samples for 3-1/4 hours (195 minures) at 375F, and I recorded their weights at various times. Two of the samples lost .01 pounds, the other .02. The kitchen scale that I got from Walmart a few years ago is just not precise enough to really do the job.
However % change for
A = .01/(1.47-.49) = 1.02%,
B = .01/(1.39-.49) = 1.11%,
C = .02/(1.38-.49) = 2.38%.
Rindert
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The gear reduction is not good for a rotary tiller . Busted gear box . I did see someone use a oil well jack pump gear reduction to chunk and split wood .
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I am getting reduction of three to one or four to one and having to fire retort twice to get char .
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I experimented a lot making tluds (top lit up draft) stoves out of coffee cans before making a 50 gallon one. The one thing to remember is to use DRY wood.
Rindert
I still use this one to make charcoal from apple wood for the bbq.
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I had green wood and had it in the way so I chipped it and still have most of it , I had kept another pile of wood for years inside and I just cut it up and used most in my wood stove . I have at least a cord in shed for wood boiler .
I did not finish this pound of charcoal today .
I got this running , very disappointed . used charcoal made in pail . Only got running for minutes at time , very sensitive . Valves need to be moved simultaneously proportionately , nearly impossible .
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Rindert; It sure sounds like you did everything right. Don’t understand why they didn’t loose any more that that. Were these suppose to be “wet” wood or had they set around for some time. Baffled. TomC
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Henry; As long as I’m already shooting off my mouth tonight, I have a suggestion for you. Move the ball valve that is right next to the engine back to where the flex hose connects to the “T” and then go right from the “T” to the engine. As it is now when you adjust the “chargas” to the engine, you are also changing the air mixture, so yes you would have to go back and adjust the air each time. If you move the ball valve as I am suggesting, then the engine will pull both air and chargas combined and you should be able to get the correct mix by just adjusting the air valve. TomC
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These were samples of homemade charcoal. People had been asking how much moisture my char absorbed from the air. I knew it was low because I live in a very dry climate here in Colorado. But I also knew it was not zero because I can see steam come from it when I first light it for cooking on the bbq. So, I did this test, partly to satisfy myself but also others.
Rindert
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Yes, those were interesting results, 1 or 2% is a lot less than I recall getting - but I was not able to find my notes about moisture contents. I seem to recall that at even 5% I had problems with my gasifier, but I dont remember now if I ever established a threshold where it started working well.
Anyway, thanks for posting your findings, every data point helps bring the big picture into focus.
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Hi Carl , where i live we have clouds around us a lot of the time , i mean real low clouds as we are living up in mountain area be it only half way up it we also have the highest rain fall in Victoria , so i am amazed that i don’t really suffer that much if at all , maybe the odd crackle when i first light up the gasifier and very little condensation in my filter trap and pipe work before the engine .
I don’t have anywhere out of the weather i can store my charcoal apart from 25 litre tins and when i have 6 full ones i put them through the mill to reduce and i can normal reduce 6 into 3 and a half if i have room in the gasifier i will dump that into it , some times when its real sunny it will sit in the gasifier till the next run time with no ill effects from condensation / damp .
Dave
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Could not get running with 1 inch . Just went to half inch and had engine running for over an hour .
Had cleaned gasifiers and loaded last of charcoal . water heater is not part . added one quarter inch pipe as nozzle other tube has 3/8 hole as nozzle , sock filter and engine . That’s all folks
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