Excellent Garry!!! WAY TO MAKE IT HAPPEN!
Thanks for posting the pictures and showing us how its done.
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So I am looking for a good way to hook up this screw chunker to the tractor. I found a used one of these from a farmer not too far from me and says he will sell it without the augers for $300.
It has a 4.125 to 1 gear reduction from the 540 rpm pto so it gives me the speed I am looking for. Do you guys think an output torque rating of 1813 ft - lbs is strong enough?
GC
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One good thing about a screw chunker is that you have a more constant load on the gears instead of the jarring load once per revolution. I think that gearbox should work fine.
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Those usually come with a shear pin, so if it isn’t enough, it will let you know. 
I dont think I can find the notes I had for how much torque I thought it would take. And it also depends a bit on size of material and how far the flights are apart
I would change the gearbox oil fairly frequently. I don’t think there will be an issue but they aren’t necessarily rated for continuous use.
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Here is a small screw chunker driven with a drill. It looks like a motorcycle gear and chain, then like 8" discs, but they only look like maybe an 1/8" thick, and a flywheel.
The person I guess was from India. I think it is funny, because The rest of the machine is so overbuilt, for a drill to power it, then they cheaped on the flights. The feed angle is also to narrow.
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I recently bought another smaller branch cutter with the intention of mounting it on a tractor trailer. It was designed to be attached to a tractor with three points, which I modified a bit,…
I also hammered and slightly bent the blades
This is how the chopper installation looks like ready for work
I also did the testing
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Hey, that is your Remet? He takes a lot more then mine.
Dont know what kind of wood, I think wallnut. I thought fig, but that is very soft?
Super setup like that Tone! Very efficient!
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This is not a Remet, this is a smaller chopper up to 8 cm thick, but it is quite well made, …
The wood in the hand is hazel wood, it is quite tough wood, the hardness of this fresh wood is comparable to beech or hornbeam.
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Clever solution to the support roller for the metal saw, I will do the same thing to mine 
I don’t really understand why you want the blades bent?
Very nice setup and another clever idea with the rebak fastened to the tipping wagon, great work Tone 
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Looks like a convinient setup, Tone.
Familiar chunks though 
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Johan, this sketch may say more than my words, well, when hardwood of max diameter comes into the chopper, the knives must cut as much as possible with a cutting effect, otherwise the chopper stops instantly, so I bent the blades a few degrees.
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Yes, I understand. The only thing I could think of why to bend the knives was to perhaps cut a thicker piece with less power, as we don’t really have hardwood here it did not occur to me that that would be the reason. Our few oaks are far too valuable to make any kind of fuel out of so our go-to ”hardwood” for fuel is the silver birch.
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I was visiting my friend Boštjan, maybe you still remember the pictures of the old truck that stood in the bushes for 30 years, Boštjan used an engine with a gearbox to drive a screw chopper up to 120 mm wood thickness, there is nothing better than using an old reliable air-cooled engine without unnecessary electronics for such work.
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120mm. I had to look it up. Almost 5 inches. I’m surprised by how small the shaft out of the trans seems to be for that kind of necessary torque.
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Any more specifics on the screw? How thick of material were the flights made out of?
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Yup, screw chunkers just use less torque. They are actually more efficient and feedback a lot less vibration through the pto.
Rindert
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Hello Chris, the cutting screw is made of hardox material with a thickness of 10 mm, the rear largest diameter is approx. 30 cm, the flywheel is approx. 80 cm in diameter and 30 mm thick. This screw cutter is much larger than mine and much more massively made.
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Thanks for this Tone! Much appreciated.
Found these links. I found the very interesting
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