If any buddy else here at dow has inside pictures of this model snap on mig or the esab 251, it would be nice to compare model differences.Thanks,DOW.
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If you want to use some Glyptal 1201 and brush it on the reactor.
Clean with some generic Coleman white gas to get all the oil off first.
I use it on everything I service.
It just extends the life of the insulation and covers nicks scrapes and minor damage from over heating or abuse.
Works as long as the unit is not burnt.
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Thanks for the tip wallace, I dont think its shorting anywhere yet. luckily most the heat was at the choke coil and not the transformer,when i gave it a good run.The coil got too about 125f and the transformer was still at 63f in my 50f degree shop,and i have not replaced the fan yet,I will check that stuff out.I allso will put one of are electronic temp gauges too the top of transformer and chock coil for ease of temp monitoring, and a 150 f or so pop switch on at least the choke coil too shut it down when gets too hot, till it cools,as they all should have been in the first place.
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Most modern electrical equipment is wound with Type F and H materials.
In general that means that are good for between 155 and 170 c ( that 300 to 350 F)
That is the upper continuous operating temperature.
Most devices are rated to go 30 years at or bellow that in normal conditions ( clean, dry )
In practice they go a lot longer but they must be clean and dry.
Every 10 deg above the rated limits cut the life of the insulation in half.
In very short order you can kill something by running it hot.
I have worked on some electrical equipment so old its insulation is rated O ( for Organic )
This is cotton and organic/oil based varnishes.
This is weak compared to the modern stuff, but even O has lasted 75 years when well cared for.
In a pinch fiberglass resin for boats can be used to make a field repair.
Glyptal 1201 is rated as F material.
Also good for the inside of gear boxes and engines.
I paint everything with it.
If you find something old ( by that I mean 70s or older ) band it has that red coloured bridge paint on it ( usually semi gloss ) its very likely it contains 25% red lead by weight and probably some cadmium and zinc and chromium 6.
DO NOT EAT THE PAINT CHIPS lol…
Wash hands after handling such material and use common sense around it.
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Use that great Scotch stretchy rubber stuff for more things everyday. Used some today to fix a TV camera light cord. Loctite has a silicone version that you can fix a plumbing leak with while wet. I used some of that to slow down a pressurized leak in a transmitter cooling system last year. Works on very light, small cables too, like lapel microphones. Also good for sealing / protecting outdoor connections.
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Many gear cases use Glyptal to prevent the cast iron case from weeping oil and to seal any dirt that may have been missed ( sand from casting ect ).
Coleman uses it to coat the inside of fuel tanks on lanterns and stove.
Many engine builders use this product to seal the inside of their engines.
it helps oil run back to the sump faster.
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Hi wallace,what is the continous temp rateing of glyptal 1201, can you send me a link too the stuff ,no results on ebay. Thanks for responce mike and wallace.
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I know most of these products are rated F.
Westinghouse brand ( I do not like that kind because there’s comes out clumpy, has a lot more solids in it ) Says F on the can.
Dolph’s red electrical finish is extremely nice stuff with a higher gloss and light red colour not sure about the rating.
Eastman has it with all the info.
Here is a link that states it has a 135C rating.
That’s still higher than the average electrical equipment ratting for consumer grade electrical equipment ( generally insulated to class B )
http://www.glyptal.com/1201tech001.pdf
Now skip Ebay:
Do you have an electrical supplier in your town that contractors use?
95% probability they will have this on the shelf in 1201A ( spray can ).
If not they will have a generic made by Ideal or other off brand.
Like I said he Dolph’s version is also very very good paint.
http://www.dolphs.com/
PD George is a name that seems to have gone off into the sunset.
Back in the day…
They made quart cans of stuff that was like fiber glass boat epoxy but was in fact an electrical sealer epoxy.
Found this old link.
If I recall this stuff was rated even higher for temperature.
http://www.superioressex.com/uploadedFiles/Distribution/North_America/Essex_Brownell/Partners/234.pdf
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Thanks wallace, nice helpfull information,i been wanting info on transformer coil glue paint for quite a while.
I dont know what fixed this welder, except i pulled the caps, cleaned the conections there and on the bolt on diodes. oiled the fan motor and she welds nice and cool 170 amps non stop.
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some welding this year from my ya 212 snapon mig welder.
I built this burn box in place of my fire place incert water boiler, that burner box was too small. All i have too do too this burn box is add a water jacket too the outside the burn box. The fan that feeds the fire air is seting near the cement floor too keep the smoke from exit the burn box when fan stat shuts fan off.
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All the smoke go out the slot in the floor of the burn box , then travel too back of burn box and up through the water jacket heat exchanger behind the burn box.
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luckiley i dident get burns back welding the inside, setting inside and kneeling too weld, even though i broke the pattern and went with .062 thick mig wire’ that i snaged for 455 pounds too the door for 275 dollars delivered too the frieght station. 9- 33 pound rolls and 4- 44 pound rolls.Coulent resist the price.welds good down too about 1/8" not quite as good penitration as thinner wires at lower heats, though not too bad , a little more poping till heat dialed in.
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