The DriZzleR - open top gasifier

So if you read my explanation above. The MAP sensor actually makes things much easier as there is no programming required to change timing.

To switch between wood gas timing and gasoline timing on an EFI engine all you need to do is install a second MAP sensor with a better matched output signal. The signal wires of the stock sensor and the second sensor would be wired into a 5 pin relay with a normally open pin and a normally closed pin. These pins are the input from the switch and the power in pin you would simply use as the leg feeding back to the ECM. So if one mode you simply have the relay Off and switch timing you simply switch the relay On.

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yu got two messages back before i red the other but i understand thank you message was for wesseling he said he hated mot having manual control of throttle . but thanks for your explamation i am getting a better idea of how the electronic controls work now i have to admit i had a couple of wrong ideas about them i guess i am old school pre 2000

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I was an automotive tech in a prior life. I left the industry in 2002 and moved on to automated machine building. It was not until later that really learned how the computer controls actually worked on and engine. As I learned the basic electronic systems in automation things then began to click. Then later learning to program things became even more clear. Now Ive had combine both the engine controls along with my controls.

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i grew up in the mechanic business. built first car ok dune buggy at 11. when they switched to electronic controls i have to admit that is when i got sick. havent kept up with the innards of the controls . I now cositer the new motors as plugg and play need some updated in my understanding of the boards and programing i now use code readers to fix all my problems. can fix just about anything just takes a little longer. i now need scematics to figure out some proble,s as now most problems are wiring … we have a lot of salt and calcium on our roads like a hundreed lbs per KM 1/2 mile per run.

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zirconium oxide ball $6.99 for 25 3. mm uxcell for sale on amazon
ZrO2 Zirconium oxide ball G5

I also found washers Zirconium ceramic that may be more durable material but would you use washers for fluidized bed ?

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Fuel rod
A long, slender, zirconium metal tube containing pellets of fissionable material, which provide fuel for nuclear reactors. Fuel rods are assembled into bundles called fuel assemblies, which are loaded individually into the reactor core.
The material for a fuel rod would melt inside a gasifier ? 1350 f 732.2 c

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anything you use for fluid bed burners will wear out think of a ball mill the balls roll around and polishes the material . now think of those balls floating in the air banging around now bring those balls to 1600 degrees F. the heat and the oxygen will oxidize nearly any thing and the heat will soften the balls so they wear faster. ceramics will last longer but small gravel stones are way cheaper . as you will have to keep changing them as they wear out. put small gravel stones about the size of large sand in a tube . Put a screen door screen about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom on a frame that fits inside the tube tightly now put a hole in the side at the bottom hook a fan to the tube blow air under the screen with enough force to make the sand float like water boiling. blow air for a couple of days see how much you have left most of it will fly out of the tube as powder. it will wear away like the wind blowing sand in the desert. . Now you havent even added heat. that is the reason i left fluid bed . the big company has the same problems they just dont tell people. If they did no one would want to use them. i think the costof bed material is just a part of expense

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He just posted another Drizzler video on Youtube about a week ago

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What I remember was the shredder was taken out by the paper in the waste stream before the fuel got to the fluidized bed . I have a down draft , a pipe became blocked by a lump of tar and I was unknowingly operating it as an updraft or I was almost operating it . I fixed that . Last run grate shaker failed . If I ever open unit I will probably find run ended because of bridging . eventually a build up of no burnable aggregate "clinkers " is going to stop any gasifier . A fluid bed gasifier could run longer . First is exclusion of oxygen , second is heat . third is keeping fuel flowing into gasifier and then we hope the thing does not destroy itself .

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henery are you talking about a fluid bed burner or a gasifier. fluid bed burners burn everything by having a inert bed blowing up and everything is suspended in a floating mass it looks like boiling water but it is burning. a gasifier can be down draft ,up draft or what ever you want. i was just wondering you said fluidized bed???

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two years ago I was running wood gas 30 feet from wood gas boiler to flare , . I used shop vac to blow air in . I got burnable gas out . mostly I got smoke . So the difference between a burner and a gasifier is trying to get gas out of it .If you do it wrong you just get smoke .
I gave up on using wood gas boiler as gasifier

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ok you were talking about gasifiers. that is some what what i am working on now or for the last 4 years. i have been looking at a lot of different things but i think a good downdraft close coupled with a swirl burner might be the answer. moving wood gas 30 ft might cause a lot of tar to condense so i think we have to insulate the pipe to keep as much heat in as posible. Or hook up the burner a lot closer. Then use the swirling motion at the gas burner to make the flame going back on itself to keep the flame substaining it self. I have been looking at vortec burners. or flamless burners. There is a low swirl burner but i dont know if it would work? if it did we may have the answer.

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oh i dont know if blowing air through the gasifier is the way to go. i have been looking at a ventura suction way of moving the fuel or (smoke). it could be put at the burner and suck the smoke or gas and mix it right at the votec burner. that way the gas hasnt much air in it so it will not burn in the line no matter how hot it is

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It is normal to open door to boiler and get blasted in the face by an explosion of wood gas .
I restricted air and got only smoke . I blew air in with shop vac and got wood gas . and flare . I ran engine on gas , engine cut out before I could use power , then I could only get smoke from flare .
I stopped trying to use wood gas boiler as wood gasifier .
I had a loop that dumped into 55 gal barrel out of barrel to filter on engine . Yes a lot of tar .

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first of all a wood boiler probly wouldnt make good gas as it was designed to burn wood to produce steam or hot water you need a real wood gasifier to get good gas try a charcoal gasifier to start they are simple to make and make good gas. still it might be hard to get tar free gas.

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First you need to understand there is a difference between Pyrolysis gas, producer gas and gas made from charcoal. Your wood boiler I would assume does not have a proper reduction stage to produce refined producer gas for engine running. The gas you are most likely producing is most likely unprocessed pyrolysis gas and yes you can flare this gas. However this gas is made of more complex tarry hydrocarbon chains.

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thanks matt i just came back on to tell him that. and henry a steam boiler will not do what you want… as matt said there is a lot of difference matt has some very good machines on his thrive of grid section about march of 2018 starting number 390 to 573 he describes a small machine he built that would give you a idea of where to start. minimum what you need read that section of his post from beginning to end and you will have a better idea of what you want.

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I wanted to include image of caulk gun labeled antibiotic
Pine trees ooze resin when they get damaged. The resin has antibacterial properties which prevent the damaged tree from getting infected. In this same way, pine resin can also be used to heal our wounds. In addition to being antiseptic, pine sap is also anti-inflammatory and its stickiness helps it close wounds.May 18, 2016
apply pine sap directly to the cut. It is sticky, so maybe use a stick! You can peel a piece of bark or leaf and apply it to the sticky surface to keep it from getting all over your clothes. After applying the sap, cover with a piece of cloth for an antiseptic bandage
Once the wound is clean and dried out a, applying a small amount of sap can act as a barrier between the wound and outside bacteria and debris. Try and use sap that has few other particles in it such as dirt or bark and more than one coat may be needed.
Sap can also be useful for stopping bleeding when other materials are not readily available. You may need to slightly warm the sap first to get the best sticky seal, but a glob somewhat larger than the wound itself should be sufficient.
Research ?
Pinus taeda (loblolly pine tree) forestry residue and Pinus echinata (shortleaf pine tree) leaf essential oils were both effective cytotoxic agents against the Caco-2 cell line (heterogeneous human epithelial colorectal adenocarcinoma). The P. taeda caused complete cell culture death in 24 hours at the lowest concentration used, 0.15%, while the P. echinata essential oil was effective at 0.33%, reaching complete cell death at 1.25%. Both essential oils were tested against and showed some effectiveness against cocktails of the four bacterial species: Listeria monocytogenes, Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Salmonella enterica

The Cytotoxic and Antimicrobial Properties of Pine Essential Oils: A Characterization and Comparison
Richard Sakul, University of Arkansas, Fayetteville

MRSA was more sensitive to all the extracts studied, pine heartwood being the most effective, followed by spruce heartwood and pine sapwood (Fig. 6); MWL also had an antibacterial effect on MRSA. On the GGM and CNF surfaces, the number of bacteria decreased at a slower rate than that of the control, which is probably due to the available nutrients, as discussed earlier. Neither PEI nor PS had any antibacterial effect on MRSA.

Gram-positive S. aureus was more susceptible to wood components than Gram-negative E. coli. This result was similar to several studies on wood components and bacteria
https://bioresources.cnr.ncsu.edu/resources/antibacterial-effects-of-wood-structural-components-and-extractives-from-pinus-sylvestris-and-picea-abies-on-methicillin-resistant-staphylococcus-aureus-and-escherichia-coli-o157h7/

Antibacterial effects of wood structural components and extractives from Pinus sylvestris and Picea abies on methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli O157:H7
Vainio-Kaila, T., Zhang, X., Hänninen, T., Kyyhkynen, A., Johansson, L. S., Willför, S., Österberg, M., Siitonen, A., and Rautkari, L. (2017). “Antibacterial effects of wood structural components and extractives from Pinus sylvestris and Picea abies on methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli O157:H7,” BioRes. 12(4), 7601-7614.

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OOOOOKA so what has that to do with gasifiers does it make better gas ??? or am i missing somthing . 3 years ago my wife had cancer after getting kicked out of the cancer hospital for asking questions that the doctor couldnt or wouldnt answer we checked with german doctors that told her to take shaga a fungus that repairs the birch tree wounds and she was cured in about 9 weeks just as we were told. It was gone by then. she had ovarion caner that started to turn to large B cell cancer.

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Off topic, yes. But, I agree and can confirm the antibiotic properties of conifer resin. The Swampy Cree of northern Manitoba would use spruce gum as an antibacterial for wounds. I once had a nasty infection resulting from a simple scratch on my leg, cured it with spruce gum, so I believe. :slightly_smiling_face:

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