OD is mean for 'cruising after you get up to speed With the lower power that wood gas puts out it just can’t happen.I do have a 3.73rear end waiting at the local junk yard. I don’t want to take the truck apart befor winter. I’m confidant that diff. will alow me to use all gears.Ahh Yes I Did say Crivitz, Wi. Did I miss a joke some where?
1 Like
Not a joke, it’s a beautiful place! So beautiful I moved here about 11 years ago from LA. Small world! A wood gasser in my neighborhood. especially this remote place. I live over by Lake Noquebay.
Formally Ellis Junction then renamed to Crivitz which is German for Bend in the Road.
3 Likes
Wow I was surprised you even knew of Crivitz let alone you live here also. We’ll have to get together some time. I live at W10345 County W, about 7 miles west of town. I moved here from LA about 20+ years ago.
1 Like
that’s funny guys your next door neighbors and didn’t know it . that’s one thing I don’t like with the new site looking up new members in a area used to be easy. now its dumb luck I happened to run in to someone that had a lot of questioned months later he saw my truck out and he let me know he has the book. I hope he is a doer.
1 Like
Man, I pass by your place just about everyday when I go out to my brothers property.
And you came from LA also what a coincidence!
I was born and raise in Kenosha, went to LA for my Job when I was 29, spent 20 years there. After I became retired I told my wife it was time for me to come home. I have 2 children from a previous marriage. And now 4 Grandsons But I didn’t want to move back to Kenosha, so my brother told me he has a hunting cabin in a beautiful location and said I could use it to check things out. My Son lives here too. Well we checked it out and decided Crivitz it will be. And here we are 11 years later.
Yeah I look forward to meeting you in person and seeing your rig.
TomC, You are the lucky one now, with another gasifier fan just down the road. I just found County road W and got a view down your driveway from the road on Google maps. Very nice.
Pepe
2 Likes
I looked you up in the phone book. Only one Gilliam and it was on GG by the lake. I drove out there with my truck, but it turned out to be a different Gilliam. Stop in anytime you are passing. I’m usually home.
Pepe Thank you for the compliment. Long story, but my wife has a friend who is in her 80’s. She sold her house and moved into an apartment. She misses doing her yard work so much that she calls us once or twice a week and asked if she can come out and help take care of the yard. With my wife and her working on the yard, I get more time to play.TomC
2 Likes
Wow didn’t know there was another Gilliam out here. If you were on GG you were close. Sunday we have family thing going and Monday and Tuesday Doctors in GB. If I am up and moving perhaps i can come on Wednesday? If that’s alright with you.
I need some electrical help. I can not get my speedometer to work. Now and then it will bounce around and maybe for a short time give me what appears to be a good reading. But mostly, nothing. I switched instrument panels and neither speedo worked. I have been checking the sending unit and have found a questionable wiring. So my question is ---- if I tap into the wiring going from the sending unit to either the intermediate gizmo that corrects for differentials or to the instrument panel, “what do I use; a volt meter or amp meter. or even possibly a tach?” TomC
1 Like
Hey Tom, it could be a hall effect speed sensor, what year is your truck? Al
Al; It is a '94 Chev. I believe it is a Hall effect. It has a magnetic pick up on the tail shaft of the trany. That I think (?) produces an electric charge with each passing of the magnet. If I put the rear end on jack stands and run the truck in gear, to check my wiring along the way, do I use a “test light”, a “volt meter” and “amp meter” or what. As I am writing, I am thinking a test light would maybe flicker at low speed but with more speed would glow. Just trying to see if the wires are in tack from A to B Maybe a test light right at the pick up would test that also TomC
1 Like
found this may help you, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/Testing-2-and-3-wire-speed-sensors.html
1 Like
Thank you Al. That says I use a volt meter.TomC
1 Like
if you can find someone with a scanner to plug in to your check engine port for obd1 that will also help to find the problem most scanners can show speed so if you get a reading with the scanner driving the problem isn’t at the trany but if no reading your on the right track.
1 Like
Torque and rpm's are directly related. I have made the case for not believing the advertised horse power. And as the torque and hp are directly related, I don't believe the torque figures.
You will never get me to say anything bad about Don’s Tracker ( even though I have never gotten to ride in it ) My take on his engine is— it has a very flat torque curve. They increase the hp by making the engine rev high. Add the constant torque to a very high rpm gives you a bigger hp figure to brag about. But with a flat torque curve you have a fairly constant “power” over a wide band of rpm.
Engines produce a bell shaped torque curve and pretty much a straight line rpm. The max horse power will come at about the peak of the bell or shortly after where the rpm and bell curve cross. After that the torque diminishes faster than the rpm increases so the hp goes down.
Power/ in.3 Again you are dealing with figures that I absolutely doubt. If they doubled the horse power in that time, the newer trucks would just scream off the line. It would be so obvious, but I don’t think we saw that. You double the horse power but you only increase the torque by 50%. Then you had to increase the rpms to get the increased hp and that is counter to your argument about low end torque for wood gas.
Designing tires we could make a tire that would do 200,000 miles but in the rain or cold you would never keep it on the road. We have to dumb it down to make the tire drivable ---- wet weather, cold weather, hot weather, ride, noise and yes a fair amount out mileage. The same thing with engines. Herb’s hot rod puts out a ton of power per cubic inch, but for the general public, they need a drivable engine. In order to get a drivable engine the auto makers dumb them down. When they get them dumbed down all manufactures are shooting for the same perimeters so their actual power per cubic inch is in the same ball park. Thus my comparison of weight to cubic inches becomes more relevant.
Yes Mr. Wayne, air resistance is something we need to consider. Every since I got home from Argos, I have been modifying my truck to cut down on the wind resistance. I had a bad west head wind going home and my poor little V6 was working it’s bender off. Really got to thinking about a S10 from that trip. TomC
5 Likes
Engines that need torque , like tractors, have a longer stroke than width of bore, car an pickup motors don’t anymore, old motors did.
1 Like
A motor with a long stroke will make usable power.
1 Like
Has any one got the stroke length on one of them lean burn oil well ICE drivers.Yes the s10 4.3 should have a bit faster easyer take off for sure,and easyer too maintain freeway speeds, I see them all the time for 600 too 700 bucks needing a few repairs with decent body.Or ready too roll for few more hundred dollars.
1 Like
JO, Max and all; I’m kind of moving the subject about the “cooling and gas conditioning” of WWII gasifier here so we aren’t “hi-jacking” some one else thread.
I am interested in building a smaller vehicle to run on woodgas. The big thing I see is with the WK system we have a truck bed full of generator, cooling and conditioning equipment. The WWII units had the generator in the back and all the rest on the front-- much smaller. JO Olson sent the following to me which I’m sure you all have seen included in some article you have read. I list it again so that we can all be talking about the same picture.
http://www.kfzderwehrmacht.de/Homepage_english/Miscellaneous/Wood-gas_drive/wood-gas_drive.html
JO first question; There are 3 pipes attached to the bottom of the radiator ( cooler or what ever you folks call it) The first one takes the gas off from the baffles in the “scrubber” area. The second one is taking gas off from the scrubber but past the baffles (as I see it ). It doesn’t show how the gas gets into that chamber only that it goes down and right back up.
Max; Going back through old postings I ran across a conversation where you said you were building a different smaller car — ( excuse me if this is not correct) I believe it was call a Mica. How does that project stand. It interest me. Some pictures would be nice. ( back then you told Don you didn’t have a camera, but by now they are like a butt-- everyone has one)TomC