I was reading some nice opinions here in the posts on this thread.
The only way to get gas dry is to cool it below dew point to condensate the moister out.
So, install an extra airco pump and heat exchanger should get the job done…
The cooler the gas gets before entering this airco cooler, the more efficient.
Because the cooler the gas, the less water can be physically hold in that gas…
Getting the gas below ambient… now that is a challenge…
An idea to think about. If you sprayed water on the evaporator while going down the road, wouldn’t you get evaporative cooling? Or maybe cover the tubes with absorbent material and let the water wick up from a container.
That is a great idea, same as cooling a radiator in the desert…
The airflow from driving together with an evaporative element works for sure
Combining solutions in any form… lovin it
Tom, it doesn’t bother me that you talk about your builds…
As Einstein said once… Imagination can bring us to the moon… and he was the one talking… 
Hi Kristijan,
Not completely true… Only pure carbon and pure oxygen will produce dry gas…
Any hydrocarbon will produce H2O on combustion, as will any cracked tar…
If in the molecular chain is a H present, it will produce H2O… and that H2O is not always reduced again in the charbed, hence the gas is moist.
Charcoal has the lowest %
Coal has a higher %
Wood even more…
Winter is still hanging on. I never did anything to close my shop in better so it is cold working in the there. I did try doing some forbidden welding, and I guess because it was so cold, I hurried through, and ended up warping the pieces. When I screw up like that, I loose interest, so haven’t been back out. Seams like I do this every year. I missed going to Argos last year for about the same reason — the winter project went into the spring. Well for sure, I’m not going to get my project done sitting down here, enjoying talking to you you. TomC
Hi Tom, you and I are in the same situation. I have to weld out side and it is just to cold in the winter, now it is raining. Hope it will dry out soon. I have never had much luck at welding when it is real cold. I like my metal warm and dry, and my hands and body too.
Bob
Say Bob
You should try welding in the wet
It is very stimulating!
No thank you Michael, I may have a electronic reaction from electrocution. It would spoil my DOW fun.
Bob
You see, that’s what I’m talking about. If you only had posted - if we only had known - that would never had happened. We would have pushed you through that stage - no problem 
Hi, Tom!
11.4.2017
At this time I am trying to assist a young chemist who has a lot of energy to build new style solutions to his car.
As this goes on, I do my best to find explanations of how and why a methode or practice is presented.
It is natural that others may take some interest in it too, but it can hardly be of any greater value if somebody starts to assert that the presenter thinks this, or is motivated by that, completely out in the blue…far off from reality.
I think nobody enjoys assertions of thinking and doing headless things…if it is not a good joke.
I think it is better and more fair to ask about uncertain things than claiming that somebody says this or that.
And one can put fair questions on one’s own “page”; they will usually be answered in some way…
Hello Max;
This is the second time you have posted this exact post. I understand that you help many people with there gasification projects. That is admirable. I have no idea what you are talking about with the two following quotes;[quote=“gasman, post:592, topic:1225”]
if somebody starts to assert that the presenter thinks this, or is motivated by that, completely out in the blue…far off from reality.
[/quote]
This is my page and so by your rules I am allowed to ask this fair question. What have I said "that the presenter ( obviously meaning you) thinks, or is motivated by that------reality?
Then the part about claiming “that somebody says this or that”. If I mentioned something that someone else has said, and I don’t remember of doing that, I would only do it to ask confirmation on your thoughts of the subject. TomC
Hi, Tom!
16.4.2017
For short: No more than anybody else, do I like that words are put in the mouth by others. I do not want to return to this subject.
I would like to discuss “cooling hot gases”. I just finished re-reading the post that Pepe put on about a 28 Model A and a an Opel Kadet. Both using WWII gasifiers. The Model A’s gas cooling system, is just the size of the A’s radiator. The Opel has just a small tower right on the gasifier. Today on the other hand, we have tubing running all around the bed of our trucks.
I had over 15 ft of 3" exhaust pipe covered with 4" heater piping. The gas entered the 3" pipe at one end and the air entered the 4" at the other end— counter flow heat exchanger. When I cut it apart, I found that the 3" tubing was so thick that it absorbed the heat in about the first 2 or 3 ft of that 15 ft pipe. Then the heat was transferred to the 4" pipe in the last couple of feet of piping. Not the pre-heat I had hoped,
I still have 38 ft of 4" schedule 40 pipe around the bed for cooling. Where the gas goes into the cooling rails, the rails get hot, but by the time it comes out, the tubing is still just warm. That rails is VERY heavy and I am wanting to loose some weight.
So I am trying to understand the WWII cooling systems.TomC
This may be “old hat” to some, but this goes into a fair amount of detail:
https://spaco.org/Woodgas/1939Report.htm
Tom,
Its not the size, its surface area that is important. A car intercooler measuring about 1x1foot has a surface area of about 10squere feet yet weighs maybe a pound. A foot long 3" pipe has just 1 squere foot.
Mr Tom,
An undisturbed center flow in a large dia pipe will be somewhat insulated from the conducting pipe walls.
I belive in turbulence. I would suggest you let the woodgas enter the 4" rails in a svirling action. We all know how good a cyclone is at cooling the gas. I´m sure you could do with less than half the piping if you go that route. Make them easy to wash out often with garden hose.
Hi, Tom!
8.5.2017
And in addition to effective swirling, let it happen in the lower end of vertical tubes, so the “center string” lands in a long “bottom bucket” instead of laying and covering the tube-surface on the lower side in horizontal tubes!
That asks for two rectangular horizontal tubes; the upper one for collecting cooled gas, the lower one with an intermediate bottom for distributing hot, sooty gas and the lower part as a common “soot box”, rakeable and rinsable from the ends.
This makes in fact each vertical cooler tube into a small cyclone… remember, that small cyclones work well in the Netherlands!
Here layes also the possibility to change the count of active and passive tubes for the day; turning the tubes makes it possible to activate or close their inlets… for freezing or warmer days.
To stop the common up-flow from the soot-box through all tubes, this up-flow has to be stopped individually in the upper end, aswell as the inflows at the lower end.
Thank you Pete, Kristijan, and Mr. J.O. for your response.
Pete; a lot of information in that posting. I glanced through, but didn’t see anything on cooling devices – still studying. Did pick up some info on “drop boxes” that gave me food for thought.
Kristijan; Hmmmm! Your comment stirs so many question. I recall that you had a discussion on about this same subject when you were adding more cooling tubes to your gasifier. I will have to go back and re-read that, but I think it presented the same questions that your comment brought to mind. I agree we should be talking about “surface area” but size and surface area are generally related proportionally. Car intercoolers; a 1ft x 1ft intercooler has a surface area of 1 sq ft unless you add another dimension to it. Would a truck radiator work as an intercooler, or would it plug with soot? Finally, was the statement about a 3 in. pipe an approximate statement?
J.O.; I agree with your comment. I have at times thought of cutting off the end caps and inserting about a 4 in. x 8 ft piece of sheet metal that has been twisted into like a cork screw. But then it comes back to I really don’t like all of that weight— so a redo is in mind. I like your idea of vertical tubes to help wash the soot down with the condensate.
I have just redone all of the “guts” in the gasifier and I have to prove it out with the old cooling rails. TomC
Hi Tom,
On my new build I am again using furnace heat exchangers for gas coolers like I did on my Geo Tracker only I am keeping them together as a unit like this and and they will sit down in the truck bed.
