Ill just leave this here
Ill just leave this here
Are you sure? I mean Tomo is going to be waiting a LONG time for taters to grow out of that dirt. There isn’t much of a field if he jumps off the cliff either. It might be a mating call with that long protrusion sticking out near his rear. There may be baby Tomo’s in your future!
I find those very versatile and cool useful tractors. I have never ever seen one before I became a member here, never seen one ’live’ here in Sweden.
I want one though.
I have a Agria 30 hp, just a little bigger then the Kubota 12? hp. Extremely strong for the size. Downside of my Agria is the pto reverses if you drive backwards.
Anybody need any round gaskets?
I needed a couple of specific hollow hole punches recently.
Here’s how I make them:
Make free storage containers out of plastic jugs.
Don that is simply a great idea and keeping the handles means you can hang them up out the way as well .
Dave
Safety tips for welding.
I think one of the scarier ones is when using chlorinated brake cleaner. At welding temps it turns into essentially a weapons grade chemical with no way to treat.
Number 1 is welding galvanized material.
When I weld zinc, I wear a particulate mask and have a fan blowing. I don’t MIG weld galvanized, I always use flux core.
Good info video.
I really try to not weld galvanized stuff at all and if I do I try to weld outside, if possible choose another way of fastening like bolting, threading and such but what I had not ever thought about in the video was the grounding of the wlding table. I do that most of the time and very rarely use welding gloves (only regular work gloves) and if it is a small quickie weld I rarely wear gloves at all… It is a bit of an eyeopner soI’ll try to change my habits here. Thanks Cody.
The galvanized stuff are no fun, the yellow fumes really makes you sick, been there, done that, got the “shakes” ventilation is good with all welding.
Good thing is the zinc gives you a warning before: it tastes like sugar substitute when breathing, then milk or cream is a good remedy, even (filmjölk-yuck ) work, even better.
Better than wake up with zinc-chills, and to do it complete, like me, welding-sore eyes at the same time
Another thing many forgots is ozone, thats always present where an electrical arc is created, ozone is good in a layer in the atmosphere, but really unhealty, its trivalent oxygen, and really hard on the lungs.
Some opinions required. Some of my equipment will not run right or at all on ethanol blend fuel. Also non-ethanol here is about a dollar more per gallon but it is 90 instead of 87 octane. Apparently there is about 1/3 of a gallon of whatever was pumped in that hose before. Probably inconsequential in a 5 gallon gas can but how much do you think it would effect storage. I put Stabil in all my cans.
Same with prices here Tom, about a dollar more per gallon. I suffer the price for anything I love (chainsaws) but anything else gets the blend and started and ran monthly to prevent water intrusion. I use stable as well for any stored fuels I keep 20 gallons on hand and every 3 months it all gets dumped in the dodge and fill with new so I’m always rotating stock. I have thought about dabbling in ethanol removal after seeing some videos online, but not that high on the priority list right now. My saws will run a little finicky on e10 which is the common fuel around me, but if I have to use ethanol fuel I just make due with it. Make sure I run the tank dry and refuel with non ethanol to keep potential parts from drying out. I don’t have a answer other then tuning your stuff to like the ethanol fuels, then suffering the inverse of running weird when you get ethanol free
I think Marvel Mystery Oil may help with preventing parts drying out. It definitely helps to swell up old dry seals. I do 4oz per 10gal of MMO and I also use Stabil.
I use alcylate fuel, the fuel that can be bought ready mixed in plastic cans, much more expensive, but can be stored almost forever, dont dissolve fuel lines or diaphragms either.
This is for my seasonal equipment, and chainsaws. The more thirsty equipment like lawnmower and boat engine gets standard fuel during season, and last run on alcylate, to be stored with.
I don’t know if Aspen fuels are available in USA, but any brand would work.
This is also a standard fuel, ordinary pump gasoline can vary in quality from time to time, which can be needing to tune fine running chainsaw from each fill up.
Hi All,
I actually like 70% ethanol fuel. It keeps the tank, lines and whole fuel systems on my equipment beautifully clean.
But part of the deal is that I live in the Denver area, about a mile above sea level. Back when we had carburetors on everything you were supposed to put in smaller jets, to compensate for the altitude but a lot of people didn’t bother and just let them run rich. A perfect example is my late 1970s Echo chipper, shredder, vacuum. When I got it the fuel tank and carb had a lot of gooey old stuff in them. I never even took it apart. I just put about a half pint of e70 in it and spun it over without starting to get the fuel all the way through it. Then I let it sit for three days. On the third day I started it. It sure made a lot of smoke for a few minutes. It would run with a lot of choke. I then added small quantities of e10 until it would run without any choke. I found that 25% ethanol fuel was ideal for that engine here at 5000ft.
More recently I have found that what I thought was e70 is actually some lower percentage. So I have found myself readjusting my fuel blend for my chipper so it doesn’t smoke. I have to bring two fuel cans to the filling station. Not that big of a deal, but it makes me want one of those ethanol gauges. But more than $100, so I guess I just can’t have one.
I have a '91 Ranger, '06 Corolla, late 60s 3KW generator, late '70s Echo CSV, McCuloch chainsaw, '12 Predator 212cc. Ethanol hasn’t hurt any of my equipment as far as I can tell.
Rindert
You are smart to keep your fuels in rotation Marcus. I’m not so diligent. Mostly my chainsaws give the E-10 the finger. The snow blower will run on it fine and the generators will as well. The log splitter is a pain in the ass regardless of what you feed it. I can’t really figure out what makes the difference. I’m going out tomorrow to get about 30 gallons( I’d get more but that’s all the can’s I have). Things are looking pretty shaky going into winter and I don’t want to be without enough fuel. One generator runs on wood gas and one is dual fuel but the little inverter is gas only.
RindertW. I think your successes are not so much the altitude but you most of the year very, dry, dry low humidity air. Then you are cold, cold. Cold air will not hold much wieght of moisture.
What engine kills most of us is the must be let in make up air to replace fuel volume used.
The alcohol grabs the moistures out of this air. The moisture vapor, liquifies and is then held into the fuel mix.
Hey Tom. Family wars begin, and friendships can end with gasoline fuel storage styles.
I’m a plastic cans man. Hate any metal anymore since E10. Even expensive internal zinc plated. Shed zinc turned to oxides, clogs orifices.
My plastic cans MUST seal to pressure pooch-out when warm. Suck in, gone cold. Or I chuck them out. I only want the air going in from my use filling from them. NOT stitting breathing in and out for weeks and months.
True sealed then I have kept both clear ethanol free and E10 for up to a year just fine. No more extra preservatives costs. Those all mostly stink like hell when ran.
Huh. I watched in the last few months an extensive video series a guy set up over a whole years with engines, gallon sealed cans, and glass jars of gasoline and different brands of preservatives. He even did carb bowl drops to see the time sitting results.
Only 1-2 brand did the job they claimed to do.
Was NOT any version of Stabil. Not the PRx-XXX many are using. A threw away all of my preservatives stocks. Waste of money.
Youtube search up for this video.
Regards
Steve Unruh
Hey. I have to watch America’s Got Talent with my wife for loving couch sitting time. Gag-yech!
So endure a little of this guys put-on show for the meat info of his findings.
Regards
Steve Unruh
His follow up video time testing adding Marvel MysteryOil, and PRI-G
S.U.
Steve,
The more I think on it the more I think that water in fuel is not so much the problem as the fact that water does not mix well with most petroleum based fuels. What do Dry Gas or Heet and such products do anyway?
I seem to remember @mggibb talking about how he used to make 160 proof ethanol, (20% water) and fuel his van with it. Maybe he’ll chime in?
Below is a video, perfectly believable to me, where they are using 20% water in Diesel fuel. It looks like milk. They use a surfactant to get the water to mix with the Diesel fuel. He refuels with HydroDiesel at about 14:00.
Rindert