Thanks Koen & Bruce
The head skimming will be next on my list of things to try , luckily I have a spare engine that came without inverter or ignition panel so can use that as the guinea pig engine .
Without the carb on the engine the eco will not work because the servo motor isn’t attached and revs are determined only by the inline valve , but when I did run it with the carb in place it will over ride the eco as soon as demand for power is required .
The model number on engine is XY157F I did a google search and seems to be a common engine used in lots of these generators , but no one on you tube has has done any work on them to increase the power range from what I could see .
Cheers Dave
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Koen,
What material are you using for your .1 to .15 mm gasket? copper?
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Good Morning Dave
As you are getting more electrical output it will become more and more important to re-locate the inverter pac back in toward the front of the engine attached plastic cooling fan.
You will have to re-install or fab back some directed air ducting too for newest, coolest drawn air past the inverter case fins.
Your inverter even IF 90% efficient will start to run too hot.
Once you get up to 2000 watts electrical output that would be 200 watts of heat the inverter case needs shed of. HOT. HOT. Kills semiconductors.
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Hi Steve thanks for the heads up ,
I had given that some thought , and that is one of the reasons for leaving off the fan cowling allowing the air being blown all over the engine and inverter at the moment , and boy its one hell of a breeze !
Normally air is being sucked past around the heat sink and as we are only just coming into spring the ambient temp is still pretty low , 4 hour run times and still cool to the touch on the fins, so until I can get some decent power output from this unit I shall keep a close eye on temps . and hope to construct a better way of mounting the electrical side of things so they will get the needed cooling .
All the best
Dave
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