Normally on gasoline the meter will swing back and forth, back and forth from rich to lean. On heavy acceleration it will swing to the rich side briefly, then return to its normal pattern.
Looking good Chris .
Thanks for posting .
BBB
Very nice, I want one. I’ve been experimenting with fuel size some more in kiln dried, air dried, and fresh cut fuel. I’m seeing a lot of variation in A/F ratio as I drive. This would come in handy. Yes, it was boring. 
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Added some check valves to the system, and redid the blower setup. This makes startup a breeze.
Front gas vent:
New underhood plumbing (check valves are red):
New blower setup:
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Hi, Chris!
It seems to me, that this new vent out route is also sucking from the hay filter, as there seems to be no backflap. If this is so, then fresh air from the motors secondary air intake through the balancing flap (at the membrane) and through the partly open twinflaps can flow backward through the gasline to the hay filter.
In the hay filter, there can be resident GAS!
If they mix and go into a sparking commutator in the shop vac ???
No more questions necessary…
Hope the electric motor has separate ventilation for cooling!
Max
Yes, that’s possible. However the air leakage from there should be very slight, and hopefully not enough to cause a problem. The path of least resistance is directly through the gasifier.
I’ll keep testing it out and let you know what happens! 
Slow air leaking makes a good mix; “should” and “hopefully” does not degrade the flammability…
So, a backflap more (if tar-free) will tell more about the probability?
A manually turned valve is best for the health!
(If actually used EVERY time)
Max
I LIKE IT!!!. As you know I use a Kirby vacuum so am a little predgudos to bigger vacuum. What are you using below the shop van as a one way valve so that air can’t be pulled through the vac when it is off. I have a side valve on mine and it is one more thing I have to remember to shut off. Are the red square things you have in line check valves also? I have been thinking that instead of using “pusher blower” we could open a valve to the vac (for air) and stick the rubber hose on the vac into a opening to push air through I have permanently mounted a reel of electrical extension cord in the bed with it hooked up to a dimmer switch so I can control my vacuum. If you are only pulling 5 in. I guess you don’t have to worry about that. You spoke of it getting up to temperature before you gave it a try. Where are you measuring the temp and how high does it go before start up. I measure at the grate and let it get up to 800+ before I try.I have had to clean up tarry motors and I don’t like it. Next thing you know your mom will be driving on wood gas it will be so easy.TomC
That one’s a spring loaded check valve, had one sitting around. The rest are swing check valves.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PVC-Spring-Check-Valve-Socket-/231509673126?hash=item35e70d44a6
Yes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Check-Valve-PVC-Pipe-/171371529019
I’m watching the woodgas to see what it looks like. I don’t go based on any particular temperature. Once I see some decent gas, I send it up front and I can check for flammability.
You mean a check valve on the gas line into the twin flaps? That’s a possibility… I’m not convinced it will be an issue. I will continue to test and report back.
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Chris, that setup is amazing. You didn’t strain the starter any more than starting on gasoline. It is a must do for me.
Thanks for figuring this out for us.
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In principal; but not between the hay filter and twinflaps, rather on the input side of the hay filter. This will also take care of a leaking lid and rusted-through leaks in the hay filter!
So the line from the condense tank will have a T-branch, one with a back-flap toward the hay filter, and the other branch with a back-flap toward the shop-vac.
All this because or if the shop vac has “all feed through” cooling of the motor!
IF the motor has a separate cooling air stream, much of these preparations would be less mandatory, but still useful.
Still, in the winter, freezing condense on the flaps make trouble, if not lubricated with water resistant vaseline.
Max
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Well now, All we need is a push button igniter and a hydraulic hopper lid and you will be hands free.
Just back under your supply chute open the hopper to fill, Then with don’s clean out auger…
Here’s my warm startup procedure.
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Was this start up with the new vacuum motor or just the pusher blowers?
I just use the pusher blowers to reheat the gasifier. Although if it had been just barely warm, and I was in a hurry, I could have just as easily run the vacuum for a bit, then run the pushers.
Just a suggestion from the peanut gallery. When you get ready for 120 v on board, I think I would go with Calvin Rader’s inverter system. I bought that 2 cycle generator from HF and it is a nice little package that works fine, but it is a 2 cycle. It tends to test my patience on start up. ( I haven’t tried throwing any starting fluid to it yet.) TomC
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Hello Mr. Tom
If my 2 cycle generator is cold I hit it with a small shot of starting fluid . Starts right up after the shot .
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Hello Tom
A trick I do with the little 2 cycle generator is turn it over on its front side for little bit and sit back up. mine starts easy every time, but wont hit a lick if I done.
Thank you gentlemen; I’m a big fan of starting fluid-- got a diesel tractor that if I shut it off for lunch, I have to give it a shot. I don’t know what setting the generator on its side will do but sitting on its side for a couple of minutes beats pulling the rope for that time. I do like how my generator. It works with my blower set up. TomC
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