I purchased it from Amazon but I also saw them on eBay for the same price. It’s the vacuum 4WD actuator for a Jeep Cherokee or Wrangler, and I think other Chrysler 4x4 vehicles. https://a.co/d/dHtHs6N
Yeah I was thinking of that as well, threading or collaring would work just as well I think. I could make a collar by drilling a hole in the actuator shaft and using a rollpin
Since this doesn’t have a very long throw I think it would be more of a Fine Tuner than a true Automixer. Unless this actuator is incredibly strong and I can use a very short lever arm or a gear ratio.
They make them with threaded rods, or hooks already. but the cheapest one I have seen that was threaded was this one, and I am not sure the threaded part isn’t part of the outside of it, and I have no idea where the rod is. NOS 73 MUSTANG TRANSMISSON VACUUM DIAPHRAGM BB8 | eBay?
It looks like the one you have takes a collar that fits inbetween the circlips rings. then you can weld on the collar, and not worry about melting the diaphragm.
Wonder how long the throw of the actuator is, modulators don’t have to move a lot but they do require manifold vacuum.
This shift actuator uses a little vacuum pot in the vehicle itself, when you shift into 4x4 it lets metered vacuum flow to the pot and then to the actuator.
This actuator already has a very short throw, I may have to use a Doubler to retain some sensitivity.
Although seemingly odd, I ran into this looking for the diy version of a free floating piston rather then a diaphragm. It is a stirling engine but it is essentially two diaphragms using balloon, and pop cans. But it appears to have quite a bit of travel to it. A couple of small mods and you might get want you want.
I found this on Thingiverse, though I’d probably rather use PVC or other smooth tubing for the cylinder. Since the components are all plastic they’d hopefully need less force applied to move quickly.
Cody, that 9mm is probably enaugh. Also check my automixer project, l used a kinda gate valve. Less travel.
But l must say, at least my resaults were exactly the opposite of what you expect. The automixer is great to get you in the balpark of your mix but after that its best to hand fine toone it. Usualy lean. Good woodgas needs about 1:1.1 ratio but the automixeralways mixes 1:1.
I built this automixer for my truck.
I think it’s different from other automixers.
the transfer of the movement does this by a hinge in place of the longitudinal displacement of an axis
this design facilitates sealing and minimizes mechanical losses caused by friction
No, l think it might be on my Mercedes. But l realy dont remember. Sorry, l will try to find when l get some time, real buissy times… but it was quite a simple design. I determined whats the rough cross area of an opening for air (was about an 1/2" hole) and l set the gatevalve opening to move around that crosssection.
I found it on the 2nd Mercedes topic, had to Summarize to narrow down to just your posts. Lots of excellent discussion in there to get lost into.
Edit: my one hang-up would be the dual throttle body, F-150 old style TBIs are getting harder and more expensive to get even at scrap yards. I have a dual carburetor from my old Kawasaki but it’s awfully small for my 350 V8.
Also the Finkbeiner style gas mixer wouldn’t work with an Automixer system since it uses a smaller air tube.
I think the Kawasaki carb could work in the Mazda however, so I won’t give up on an Automixer for that. It’s a manual gearbox so when I am going up and down in throttle demand I think it will be more useful to have an Automixer.
