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Iâm usually not a fan of shows like this, but this one is different. Itâs about Americans of Swedish decent coming to Sweden to find out about their heritage.
In this particular episode they visit Sami people and their reindeer herd above the polar circle.
If you have an hour to spareâŠ
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I am always thinking how smart the folks on here are and how they always think outside of the box to achieve the goal , even when new people come along and want to change a perfectly good working design they cant help themselves they have to mess and try , and thatâs a good thing because without trial and error we would still be living in the dark ages .
So this morning in the early hours awake and looking for something to pass the time i came across a very smart clever man and i think many of you on here will enjoy watching him tell âGrandma how to suck eggsâ
If this video talk is not up your street then please look at the next video on the play list at the top its all to do with metal forming and is very eye openingly interesting .
Dave
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Interesting KISS-message video, Dave!
Thanks for sharing.
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Thanks Dave.
Enjoyed the video .
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Great video, I liked it Dave.
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Itâs a short one, but Iâm wondering if our engine sludge issues has more to do with the diesel oil than anything else? I know Shell Rotella is a favorite among vintage vehicle owners because itâs zinc heavy, but it is engineered for diesels.
This sludging was caused by infrequent changes but look at this pudding.
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Hi CodyT. we were a day down without Internet and too much rain for me to get the pictures I wanted as my proofs.
I strongly believe wood/char gas use thickening sludge of the engine oils is due to three factors in this order:
The nessesity to eliminate the positive crankcase ventilation systems out of the intake streams to be able to suck the gasifier train and to gas-air mix effectively.
The fact that the char fuels will pass through more carbons just like long carbon chained diesel into the piston rings blow-by.
And with wood gas especially we are adding another H2O moisture into the engines past rings blow-by.
I am lucky enough to be old enough all of my early years were with IC engines systems with no PCVâs but just crankcase venting draft tubes.
They ALL made under valve covers whitish/grey snot goo. Moisture out of the engine oil cooking off accumulating.
The carburetors back then would always do some fuel washing down in the cylinders past the rings. Heat was vaporizing these fuel chains out of the oil, but just draft venting was not getting them swept out. The same with in-cyclinder combustion made H2O washed down.
The same with cooling engine inside air moisture condensing out.
None could be effectively âPositiveâ swept out with just crankcase draft venting.
These are real pictures of my working engines ALL with kept effective crankcase ventilation systems. AND all after every start up ran loaded, long enough to let the oil in the crankcase vaporize purge and be positively swept out, re-purify itself:
These are from the first of the wood splitter at one full year on this oil and has to be at least 200+ cold starting up and 30 minute usages . . .
To the fourth; the 30 years old Ford pickup with only maybe 100 hours and 7-8 starts on its oil.
Sure. Sure. I use in proper weights what I think are the best inexpensive full synthetic oils now.
Thatâs not what matters. ME, changing out as soon as I cannot see thru the oil on the dipstick is what ammeters for minimum engine wear. Keeping the piston rings free and not carboned-up stuck.
My two diesel engines I cannot do this see-then-change.
They turn the oil black within hours.
I use thickening to my touch. That is because of absorbed moistureâs. Then change out.
Woodgas will be the same. Be no magic trick oil.
Buy cheaper oils. Change out often. Once itâs thickened it will be carrying itâs maximum loading of moisture and soot carbons. Leave in and then metals surface deposits will build up. These blocking the best heat transfers and lubrication oil flows.
S.U.
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Hi SteveU, i remember some from auto-repair school, the talk about oils, and additives, as you mention oil gets diluted by gasoline by time, short drives and many cold starts makes it worse, i seem to remember some additives was special to âwork againstâ the oils thinning by dilution, working on a molecular level, almost like diesel oil turns into thick paraffin.
Now, what do you think, is this something that could mess the oil up when the normal gasoline diluting not takes place?
I know some good synthetic oils are not allowed to use in cng/âbioâ gas fueled vehicles, seems there is some additives for the cng/methane/bio gas traces of sulphur and like, but maybe itâs more behind it?
Me, i use the cheapest oil, and change it more often.
The old woodgas volvo i used heavy-duty truck oil (for diesels) good on dissolving soot, but not so good against seals and gaskets.
Using this oil was just a matter of where i worked. 
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Hi GoranK. there are two modern factors now that are making oil-selection a think-again problem for me.
The use of variable timing double overhead camshaft engines specifying first 0w-20; now 0w-16 motor oils.
And the widespread usage now of gasoline hot under hood turbo-charged engines.
The first: are the thinner oils to allow for better timing variable mechanisms functioning when cold warming up? Or just a manufacturer trying for better Lab-Specs fuel use economy ratings? This is no longer just bragging rights. My State will soon begin annual licensing surcharges based on the vehicle original certified carbons usage emissions. Listed fuel use economy.
Exhaust turbo chargers are for-sure engine oil cookers in their engine oil lubricated center bearing sections. Sure. Sure. The best systems now using pumped forced engine coolant cooling now these too.
Still . . . best to do use a high quality fully synthetic better heat resistant engine oil in those.
My one sister on her now second Ford pick up 2.7L dual turbocharged V-6 engine. Great economy. Good enough power. True decades use longevity? I serious doubt that.
My own traveling Nurse wife now just one more wreck away from having to replace her older simpler Ford using more common affordable 5W-20. (Ha! Sometimes, summer I put in 5W-30. Itâs cam phasers do not seem to care.)
Her replacement I will allow only a few 1-2 year old models. A particular Toyota. A particular Kia/Hyundai pair. And one only, particular Ford model that would have that 2.7L DOHC dual turbo charged engine.
And she will not ever go with my #1 preference.
The game she plays with me for here for her last three drive-many-miles work vehicles. Me eventually getting her set-asides. Too truly run out into the ground.
S.U.
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If you donât have time to watch this I cut to the chase for you. The cheapest oil performed the best and even regular motor oil outperformed the oils branded by Stihl, Husqvarna and Echo. Iâm glad Iâm cheap and have never spent much over $10 dollar a gallon for bar oil. Right now I"m stocked up on Poulan Pro bar oil because it was on sale for $7.99 recently. If you watch it note how hot the bars got during the tests. I would never have imagined.
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Good one TomH. on the bar oils results.
Usually I use regional Durex.
Moving I found and surfaced a gallon jug of Stihl regular and one of Craftsman branded âfor-Winterâ thinner bar oil.
Wow. Did I ever start getting chain wear stretch in comparison to the red sticky Durex.
I did get an old downed cottonwood finished block cut up. It will have cost me a chain and drive sprocket.
S.U.
Now this next one is for CodyT.
Marvel Mystery Oil de-mystified by Uncle Tony.
CC enable and get his 100 year history lesson on gasoline formulation changes, why, and effects on system MMO was originally formulated to help with.
Then his explanation why good 'ol MMO can still be effective on todays engines too:
The only thing he misses on modern systems after 1967 is the additional carbons building up on intake valves backsides and injector tips is PCV systems vapors depositing there. Engine with lots of blow-by pressurizing crankcases this becomes overwhelming terrible. The source of all of the backside to throttle plates build ups on modern port FI systems.
Change the oil.
Change the oil.
Change the oil.
Keep the shits from all sources in oil suspension. Drain out and away. NOT internally depositing because the oil reached maximum suspension carrying capability.
My engines show the results of my oil change fanaticism.
My deceased now older B-I-L with a Dodge slant-6 he put a rod through the side of the block. Then later cracked off the top half of a piston in his Ford 2.3L SOHC I-4 engine showed the end result of never changing engine oils. But just topping up from blow-by consummations, and leakage losses.
Even he learned. And was much oil-change nicer on his later Toyota Camryâs. One I bought and drive as my primary now.
S.U.
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Glad to see more people talk about the full history of MMO. Yeah it was originally just a fuel treatment, then mechanics found out it worked in the block too.
Luckily because itâs a legacy product, the EPA canât make them change formula to adhere to standards. They only have to be compliant with their newer products like what they formulated for Synthetic oil/Turbocharged engines.
Iâve found itâs better as a preventative than a boo-boo band-aid for problems. It does help remove varnishing and carbons slowly.
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I have used it in gearboxes for brush hogs.
I wonder what happens when a vegan tesla owner finds out their mechanic put it in their transmission.
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Ha, probably not the proper forum to share a video from a woman who calls her self an artist. Still, you canât deny she knows how to handle a camera.
Mr Wayne, if you gonna watch this video, make sure you wear both coat and that beaver hat of yours.
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Thanks JO for the video but most of all the advance warning . I was able to put a few more sticks of wood in the heater and dress heavy before the video 
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I was not aware that Diesels were virtually indifferent to the Air Fuel Ratio. This guy is very informative.
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Well, even if nothing I learned sticks, I did enjoy the presentation.
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I guess this is a rebak re-seller in the US?
I couldnât found out where he was from, but maybe itâs of some use for some?
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