Well I still have not had a chance to even get started on the new power station. But that is ok we are coming up with better ideas of how to proceed with it any ways. But here is a simple version of what is to come with our advanced automation systems. This control system here just simply turns the blower on and off based on the gas temp entering the Cyclone. Just push the start button and the blower turns on and then once the gas temp reaches engine starting temps it tells you its ready for run mode. You then select the run mode and the blower turns off and you start the engine. While in run mode the controller controls the hopper shaker and grate shaker system.
This is a very simple version of whats to come. This system has plenty of capability to fully automate our system and self run. So basically the machines will self ignite, start the blower, once up to temp the blower will shut off and engine will then start. Then the system will use temp and vacuum switches and possibly some o2 sensors to monitor the gas and self adjust fuel mixture with servo controlled valves and also maintain fuel media and gas flow in the gasifier via the hopper shaker and grate shaker system. We will use a crank sensor to tell the controller the engine is either running of stopped. If the engine fails to start the system will then perform the start up sequence and perform some diagnoses functions. Run time will just be based on what the hopper can hold or if the battery bank becomes fully charged then it will go into a shut down sequence. This will also control the hydro drive filter system and will take inputs from it as well.
Pics below are of our controller on the E-Series I gasifier, thermo couple input and our hopper shaker system. I finally received the Jeep wind shield wiper motor for the grate shaker. I tested it out just running it and it seems like pretty strong set up. I went with the Jeep cj7 wiper motor because of the availability and the fact they are built for a Jeep. These shaker systems will still be offered with the simpler devices like the timer board and the PWM.
Ok been trying to get caught up on some of these things I have had on the back burner. So here is the first of three full systems we are planning on offering. We are just going to start with this small 2 kW unit. Once this one is worked out will then offer a larger version of this in a 5kW package. Soon we will be working on a 10 kW machine this will be a bit different than the one shown here. This one will offer a twin cylinder liquid cooled Kohler engine. We are working with an investor to acquire funding for this build.
The standard 2kW package will come with the M-Series I gasifier, liquid cooled condenser, full enclosure, four on board deep cycle bateries and it has an electric tune able turbo. We will offer this with an upgrade to the ES-I-SF or the ES-I-CF. The difference between the SF and CF is the SF is based on last years E-Series and is now what we are considering a small fuels gasifier and still does not offer heat recirculation. Moisture content is not much of an issue in most of the smaller fuels like pellets, fruit pits etc. The CF is basically a new machine that does offer heat recirculation and is a bit larger to increase run times on chipped fuels and chunks. We are getting closer to offering SS versions as well.
Other options we are looking into building for this is using exhaust heat for hot water and heat, chip dryer, and recirculating the exhaust heat back into the gasifier. An other thing I still want to play with is adding an updraft charcoal gasifier to bottom of the M-1 shown here.
I am planning on using this machine daily to run my welder and plasma cutter.
OK here is the crazy carb for this thing. I decided to try and build some gate valves rather than butterfly valves and found that the gate valves were easier to build and more effective. I welded these together but in the future I will bolt these together. The mixer valve has three gates two are for the fuel mixture and the one on the top is for shut down. Im going to sandwich a piece of scotch brite in between the upper flange this will be the air filter. There is another gate at the flare tube as well. Im introducing the air into the gas stream before the blower during engine run, Im planning on using a PWM to run the blower to assist gas flow. There is a final cyclone just before the gas enters the manifold at the carb and I built a diaphragm into this manifold to eliminate engine pulsing.
In one of the pics you will notice the electric fan, Just above it will be a control panel. All the control knobs for the valves and switches for the motors will be located here. So this should be very simple to operate.
I’m getting closer to paint. just need to build the lids and then wire it and it will be ready to fire up
Today I got all the skins done for the enclosure except I need to create a vent for engine cooling. The radiator for the condenser is placed directly across so there should be a nice cross draft keeping everhting cool and ventalated in there.
While every body has had the last few days off I hunkered down in the shop and mostly finished the mechanical side of this build. I went and put a coat of paint on her and now it is just about finished. All that is left is to wire it up.
Just an update on the power system. I don’t have the batteries and power inverter yet. But I did fire it up and run the engine and let it generate its own power to its systems. I started it out on pellets this is how I have the machine set up to run and it ran great until the pellets ran out. So I then threw some chips we have in it and it actually did OK. But this is tricky because if the engine is not started right away to shake the fuel down, then a bridge occurs. But once the engine is going it does pretty well.
I did one experiment with it to see how much heat I could get from the exhaust. I used a flat plate heat ex-changer and pumped water through it to a small radiator. It did get warm may be 90* f I think it could be improved if I could get the heat ex-changer closer to the block and slow down the flow. For now I have it taken off and will resume that later. I did run this inside and piped the exhaust and flare tube outside. The heat that blows off from the motor is plenty to heat the shop. So I would really like to devise way to keep the machine inside and still be able to operate it safely. It does make some noise even the exhaust piped outside; however once all the panels are on the noise is tolerable.
So after running a while it developed and air leak and I think it is coming from the gate valves I built for it. It is kinda strange because it comes and goes. But Im going to take that valve set up completely off and replace it with a patch pipe. Im going to go back to the butterfly valves that I know work and am going to put one in the flare tube. This will be the one and only valve and will then double as the shut off valve / intake metering valve.
Another issue i ran into is, once I started to encounter the problems with the air in the gas, I fried the stock starter trying to get it to start. lol So I will not be ordering these engines with starters. So my solution is these starter/generators like we used in the old days. The cool thing is they still use these today and you can get modern versions that are used on golf carts and such.
Aw shucks Matt, I was secretly admiring those slide gate valves you made and was seriously considering using that idea myself. Now you are saying they may be leaking! I suppose they have to be loose enough to slide without binding. They sure are nice and compact. What do you think it would take to make them work?
Don M
Oh no Im not done with those yet I guess those were the proto types, ya gotta start some where. Im not fully sure this is the problem just suspect for now. Replacing the valves with the replacement pipe will tell the story there. But Im going to order 1/4" nylon to build a new more refined version of the gate valves.
Basically Im going to copy the ones used on RV’s but with nylon slides and steel outer plates. Tar build up should not be an issue sticking to the nylon either.
I am starting them out at $5000.00 and they go up from there. We can put 4 different gasifiers on the units and we can upgrade the machine to 5kW. All just depends of fuel type and power requirements.
OK its been a long haul developing these systems. But I have the first production version just about complete. Just some minor things like the skins and paint. Im running test on the machine now and doing some tuning on the machine. I will be delivering this first one personally to a customer in California. I will leave Monday morning.
But any ways the machine is running under a constant 1300 watt load and it doesnt even faze the machine. This is a 2 kW system and I can load it beyond that for as long as the batteries can handle it. With the automated grate and hopper shaker the machine runs with very little intervention. The engine is a 9.5 hp Kohler Command Pro with the alternator at a 1:1 pulley ratio. I may a size larger on the alternator so its one size larger than the engines pulley. This should give it enough torque range to fully handle a 2 kW load. The alternator is capable of 220 amps. Ill have video of this as soon as possible, Ill probably do one while Im at the customers location.
I have two more of these due very quick and then I will be working a 5 kW CHP verison that will have a Kohler 31 hp direct injected engine. Cant wait.
Hey MattR
I am glad you chose to focus on the name brand line of Kohler engines. Be better for your customers to have engines world wide serviceable. Only weakness in the whole Kohler line up is their single cylinder 15-22 dual cam “V” shaped valve cover engines. They have had to revise the internal “dual reciprocating balance system” for premature failures. Bypass these and just get one of the 16-20 hp V-Twin Courage engines with out problems.
You’ll like the 31 hp watercooled FI Ageis. Same as my ECH730 FI air cooled.
On your engine kW shaft power conversions be aware there is a large difference between Gross and Net power ratings.
I’ve been making up the most gasiline fuel efficient push mower possible based around a late model 6.5 hp marked engine. No guts in comparision to a 6.5 hp marked B&S. The 160cc GVC Honda is an actual 4.4 hp NET rated and powers like it. The B&S is 173cc and just has more grunt.
Your 9.5 hp Kohler is an actual to the shaft (on gasoline) 8.5 hp / 6.4 kWme NET rated.
Thanks guys, yeah Steve I really like the Kohler engines. They seem to be a good quality machine and the customers like em too. Do you think I should go with a little larger engine to achieve the 2 kW requirement with this type of setup. I wish I could get a little more out of it. If I go to a larger pulley on the alternator I think the loss in RPM will take it the other way. But I guess I wont know unless I try it. The engine pulls pretty good with the 1:1 ratio but it cant keep with heavy loading for long durations.
The DC system is the way to go with woodgas. This machine is really nice, I can just charge up the batteries and run it for a surprising long time. When it is running and your pulling power loading is no issue as the alternator is self regulating and if for any reason it stalls out you still have power. I used it to cut the crates for the others machines and it supplied power to make its own parts. This was just on battery power without it running. I’m tempted to try my welder but the inverter is a modified sign and I’m afraid of what it might do to my welder. Im really looking forward to the 31 hp CHP system I have the engine already sitting here. Looks like a very nice engine with some high tech technology. Ive never seen a small engine like this with direct injection. This one is going to be a fun one.
I didn’t get on the road yet, still trying to get everything done. I have to ship two machines before I leave and get this one painted and then reassembled. I should be in good shape tomorrow, I have those machines packaged up and the turnkey has fresh paint on it. My boy and I will ship those out and reassemble it and We’ll hit the road some time after noon.
Hi MattR.
Nice things about using the Kohler system of engines is the US EPA and especially the EU factory certifications. And the worldwide Kohler service network.
Use the larger, heavier, more expensive 14 gross HP rated engine? Possible of course.
But what if the power limitation is the gasifers system abilty to supply fuel?
I think first try a few things on this existing engine first. They get the higher Groos horsepower and torque ratings loaded running these engines without the air cleaner and muffler systems. Try that first. Do put a stubbed straight pipe ~12" long on the engine exhaust side. Yep be noisy as hell. IF you then get the power you want you could make up different air (think a K&N element based) and exhaust systems.
Other possibilties would be to remove the original gasiline caburetor for it’s flow resrictive venturi and an osset flywheel keyway to advance the ignition timing. But those changes then mean no more gasiline running posibilties and voiding yout Kohler warranties.
No better power with the inlet and exhaust opening up than a larger engine would not help and you’d need to focus in the gasifier supply side.
A bigger pulley on the driven alternator MAY reduce it’s engine loading but at the sacrifice of then output watts AND spun slower, cool itself poorer and drive up it’s internal heating up.
Matt any system will have a limitation point no matter if you intentionally design one in or not. A good systems designer factors in the human element also too.
Examples from here on the DOW:
SeanF found he had to add direct reading hearth temperature gauges to prevent operator/engine overheating of his hearths. This gave him a feedback point for his heavy right foot.
Mr Wayne recently wrote that he on his V-10 on a fast trip blended in gasoline fuel to reduce the demang on his gasifier to reduce it’s heat load.
Now young man ChrisKY has taken possesion of Mr Waynes fastest capable woodgas fueled rig that got Mr Wayne speeding pulled over. ONLY Chris’s restraint control over his right foot will prevent him from exceeding safe legal limits - the gasifier/engine system will not control this.
So. You will not have any control either on the fuel input and loading down sides over the operators useage of these systems. An engine power limitation will be the safest way to contol gasifier hearth, charging alternator and inverter loadings and heatings up. The loaded down engine to a point will “fail (to produce power and heat) safe”.
Point is reached when the engine heavly loaded RPM down for too long overheats from not enough engine fan heat removal.
See my picture of a previously fine for ~200 hours at 50-60%engine loading now after only 20 hours at 80F days at 90-100% loading. This is a Honda 160CC lawn mower engine upsized loaded from a 20" to a 22" blade. Still Fine on normal yard grass - hates the forced tall stuff now. Overheats cooking the oil and picture did not come out quite well enough to show the aluminum beads of “sweat” on the spark plug from cylinder head and piston crown overheating and pinging.
Ha! The dollar fine to me for not keeping the patches of fields weeds out of blooming seed head would have been 3X the price of a new replacement engine. Fair trade off to me. Your customer/users WILL be making these same decisions but expecting you to pay the replacement costs.
So I think try and see if you can squeez up a bit more power out of your current set-up before you would give them too much power.
Let a must do “hotrod” user be the one to engine oversize at his own then owned systems overheating risk.
The Exide 6 v batteries, from what I understand these are a true deep cycle and are the best bang for the buck. But these are just for testing, I leave the battery part up to the customer, this way they can select the best battery to fit their budget. I may offer to set up the machine with the gel type batteries but I need more info on shipping these. The shipping is another reason I dont offer the batteries as well.
