Son and I have been wide open today hauling hay and moving tractors. Heavy rain is in the forecast the next couple of days and we finished just about the time dark caught us .
BBB
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Not a lot to report but the daily routine which is about 30-50 miles . Just a little over that today as I hauled cattle to the market . ( Will get a payday this week !! )
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I seen the stalls in the back ground.
Fired up and starting the day
BBB
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And you got another cow back, how long before calfs can make it with out mothers milk.
hi wayne I have a funny one for you .I haven’t been running the truck a lot lately bad weather salty roads and such .so road cleared loaded up had to make a gas run for my skid steer 14 miles to town had the air fully closed could not over rich but it ran just figured its been a couple of weeks still cold who knows its running so I drove on .I got to the gas station left it running put the tailgate down started filling a can looked down to see a black line running next to my feet. holy crap I didn’t put the condesate plug in I heard the girgeling air sucking in water dripping out jet black .I had set my plug in the trailer hitch receiver and it was still there I screwed that on ran better home . kinda funny I guess that is what happens when one doesn’t run every day.
Hey Paul .
It even happens when you do run every day , Trust me 
Hello Kevin .
If calves are left with the cows they will usually suck until they 9-10 months old. Usually sell them before they are that old.
A calf might survive at one or two months old without milk but would never amount anything .
This video is kinda off topic but the calves were hauled there on wood gas and the hay they have been eating was farmed and hauled with wood gas. Also wood gas took me there and back just a little while ago to pick up my check.
BBB
A WK system running with a gaping leak makes me feel real secure when I was picking at little leaks in the past in the welding process, but there is some forgiveness built in. This should be a future reference for newbes.
Hi Paul, Hopefully you took the plug back out out when you got home so it wouldn’t freeze. Once things freeze up here, they usually stay that way until spring … I drove over a hundred miles once with my condensate drain open on the black truck. On my new trailer I have drip legs on the condenser and they just drip everywhere I go so I don’t have to think about dumping condensate … I built that condenser in 2005 or 2006 or so and the little bit of air that might come in never does because the water level is usually a bit above the drains and there is not enough vacuum there to pull it up higher in the system. It has been a few thousand miles like that. My pictures are gone now or I’d post a link … Mike
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o yes I did mike don’t need that problem .its been so freekin cold here the my trailer has been freezing up at least once a week what a pain.
Just wondering what the cool’est you are running the v10 on the rails in the colder nights or mornings / and or what it has been running max temps in the colder times, or are you able too drive much faster in the winter times, THANKS Again
Hello Kevin ,
I have my temp gauge mounted in the cooling rail but very close to the heat ex changer exit . The ambient temperatures effect this gauge very little . Normal operating temps are about 500 F and I will let it go up to about 600 before slacking off or adding some gasoline .
It seems the trucks run real good on dry cold days but there are so many variables experimenting with wood gas it is hard to get good numbers on any increase in performance . I suspect driving on cold and dry days I may be using drier wood .
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Thats about what i expected. probbly about 100 f degrees difference. I seen your temp gauge by the heat exchanger between two cooling tubes, it was reading about 200 f while driveing ,in one of your vidios, That got me thinking maybe you had a bit more speed in winter, only about 100 f degrees difference, not much speed gain. THANKS FOR CLEARIFYING. SWEM
I have been using the V-10 daily and is still running good .
Not a lot of miles today but I worked it just about all day and run 10-12 sacks of wood through it .
The picture below shows starting up this morning and reversing the gasifier for a couple of minutes .
BBB
You are puting lots a proveing laps on the work horse. IT must have been smokeing a little too much at warm up, or it was ran a little low on wood. SWEM
Hello Kevin .
The smoke is normal , I am pushing the gasifier in reverse for fast start up.
It is almost day light in Alabama and I am about to fire her up .
SWEM
Would you say it warms up faster with the pusher blowers or reverse fans on, or both running same time.PS That pic looks more like your automatic intake clean out, SWEM
Good morning Kevin .
To run the gasifier in reverse for a couple of minutes ( with hopper lid off ) will allow oxygen to the area of the grate to help burn away any fine particles that might be causing restriction . The heat from this upward travailing gas and heat will help dry and start the charring process of the wood above the grate .
There would be no need to operate the reverse blowers and the pusher blowers at the same time . With the hopper lid open , operating in reverse and if the pusher blowers are turned on air is pushed in at the nozzles combining with the reverse flow of the gasifier and the air and gas will exit the lid . Keeping in mind the fire and char will advance toward the incoming air there is a possibility char could form at the nozzle entrance and leaving raw or less chard wood below the nozzle . If the lid is put back on and the gasifier pulled in the correct down draft mode there may be char at the nozzle level making gas that is going through fuel that has not been reduced to char yet . This wood can’t burn because the upper layers of char has robbed the oxygen, but heat is releasing gasses and tars from the wood below the char.
To try to make the above concept a little more clear and what NOT TO DO . If one started with an empty gasifier , and added some raw wood and covered this raw wood with a depth of good char . If the char is lite up and used in gasifier mode to run a motor I would guarantee dirty gas and locking up a motor .
In the above NOT TO DO example the upper layers of char are creating gas ( possible enough to run the motor ) and robbing the oxygen so lower levels can’t burn, but the heat from above will release all the tars and nasty stuff .
In short running the gasifier in reverse just a little at start up is insuring the proper stratified layers are in the correct order .
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Good explanation, how often do you have to do this? Is it only if the char depth is reduced? Thanks Al
Good morning brother Al
I reverse the air flow at every cold lite up . The lenght of time that I reverse the gasifier will depend if I am in public or out where I will attract no attention. A quick reversal of the gasifier will clear any oxygen from the hopper to avoid a burp.or puff.
If I am out where there will be no attention I will run the gasifier in reverse a little longer . If I see any smoke exiting the gasifier ( in the down draft mode ) I know something is not right and will not put the gas to the motor. Two things I can think of that will cause this smoke , The starting torch started the fire in the wrong layer of the burn tube or somehow something other than PURE char has made it down to the grate area where the fire was started
Even with a good deep char bed I will lite the gasifier at the grate and reverse the blowers . This will enhance the char to burn near the grate which will loosen any fines in this area . Once the motor vacuum is put on the gasifier it will take a little while for the fire to climb up to the nozzles . If the gasifier is lite like this each time there will be seldom need for the grate shaker . .
BBB
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