That looks like getiup and go exersize, I am tired just looking at them big logs, they must be 16 too 20 feet long, are you tractor too load trailer.? I saved the rebak chunker vidio ,THANKS IS there a way too adjust the length of chunks while building a rebak chunker,THANKS< that looks worth building, do the blades last one year before needing trueing up stait again.??THANKS
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Just one peace of advice in general when adjusting carbs on small fast two strokes. If you set it so that you get maximum rpm or power, its too good 
whats the right amount, hard to say, but generaly you want it to run rich and limit the max rpm with giving it more gas. I learned this the hard way, adjusting a cheap chainsaw, it was quite new but it seemed lazy. I felt like it shuld put out more, and boy it did once l set the carb! But only for about 5 minutes, then the saw just made a “thump” sound and the piston welded on the cylinder
Chainsaw expert Goran will correct me if lm wrong l hope…
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Did you smell NOx? I have learned to recognize it. I adjust it so it makes a little smoke. I think its normal because of the 2 cycle oil.
Rindert
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Cant remember but it makes sence.
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My favourite way of adjusting chainsaws, if it don’t run, carefully screw both adjusting screw’s to “bottom” not hard, even a screwdriver with to good shaft/grip, t-handle for example can give you to much torque without feeling it.
From bottom open up 1 turn each, and start from there.
Let saw idle/give it some gas til it’s warm (1 minute or so) close low (L) needle til rpm increases, then back some, test for “acceleration” /gas response.
Then saw some, no full throttle/heavy load, til it’s hot, then, run it “free” full throttle, and close the H needle til it really screams, don’t do this too long time, take short breaks, after it really screams full throttle, open H needle til it just starts to “bludder” (four stroking) you want it to do this all full throttle without load, with load it should “clean up” in the cut, and really “sing”
Sorry, that was a lot of typing, but this is a working method i once learned from the older guy’s, and i’ve seen many more doing it this way, needs some training to get it really perfect.
And: if uncertain, open the needles a little tiny bit more, better a little to much fuel than to little.
Edit: im no chainsaw expert, i just like them 
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Nope. Only 
5 inch gear dia and 4 blades per shaft is about what we need.
Depends on the material, but when chunks stay together like a string of sausages you know it’s time.
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Speaking of chainsaws, a little education about chain sharpening
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I recall some of you saying you use regular motor oil instead of two stroke oil. The internet says that can lead to premature wear. Curious about your experience. Also, has anybody made a ripping chain out of a regular crosscut chain?
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just cause I know your a bit of a chainsaw junkie like me, I would recommend Buckin Billy Ray, Hotsaws101, Bjarne Butler, and Tinmans saws on youtube for some great chainsaw guru wizard knowledge and entertainment
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Göran, when you talk about chainsaws, I bought a new ignition coil for my 254a, should it have resistor spark plugs?
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You’d probably want to use a non detergent SAE30 oil.
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Guilty!
Don’t know about wear. All I can say is I was unaware of a special two-stroke oil for a long time. Long enough to realise the motors will probably outlast me, regardless of diet.
I think if I wanted to run a generator or something, almost 24/7, I would probably start looking into ways to prolong its life.
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Thank you Goran, makes sence! Whats four stroking? I know that act you describe, but whats happening in the motor?
JO, you forgot one simbol with muscle and suffer. The 
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Kristijan, I with you on the muscle part, but what does a fine beer have to do with suffering?
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Yes Marcus, i use to check them out once in a while, mostly Buckin Billy Ray, he’s quite a character, hard to not be happy when watching him. (Hard to not like a guy that check’s the chain tension on a 1960-s McCulloch- On IDLE!)
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Hi Jan, 254a and 254xp uses Ngk bpmr7a (very common on chainsaws with electronic ignition) and the:R should stand for resistor/resistance so yes, i believe it is the safe choice.
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Hi Kristijan, that is a really good question, i havent watched the video Cody posted yet, it maybe explains it better.
But as i understand it: a twostroke that runs rich doesn’t manage to “flush” all the “heavy” exhaust gasses, which mixes with next, rich load, making it hard/impossible to ignite, when this unburned/exhaust mix is flushed, next load is combustible, but left “heavy/thick” exhaust, and so on… this makes the engine ignite every other revolution, just as a fourstroke. This is just a theory, i believe mankind never going to learn about all things going on inside a two-stroke
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Makes perfect sence!
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The best way to get more power out of these newer saws is to open the muffler up. That really restrict flow to quiet them.
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