Couldn’t resist joining the wood competition 
I can’t compete in volume but maybe in the “more than I need” discipline, since I don’t have a gasifier yet.
Oh, I just realised I’m beaten by TomC, who has a barn full of charcoal 
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Very neat and tidy wood/fuel storage JO!!!
Yeah Tom I couldn’t let Chris have the fastest chunker prize without intering the nail clipper! My video is of 4 short videos I did that day, was going to put up best one and then it hit me; I could put them together and speed them up and have some fun with it. That’s only X4 cause any faster the hatchet is all over the place!
Glad you liked it! Herb H
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wayne, how much chunk in volume would you say you have there in your photo?
Herb, you came a long way! I remember when you first started running your Caddy, you struggled just getting pics and vids up for us to see what you were up to. Now you are combining videos and speeding them up. Are you a grandkid again?
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Good morning Rance
If the trailer is loaded even with the sides it should hold 75 cubic feet . I think there is more wood on the ground than on the trailer . My very wild guess of cubic feet of wood is 150-180 cubic feet.
Hey Wayne, looks like you have plenty, send me a couple big boxes!!!
Yeah Don I’ve come a long way learning how to operate these darn things, I find it Very difficult because of the lack of instruction but I’m learning!
Doesn’t help losing a few fingers splitting wood last week! Kiddin!
Anything for the old WoodPoweredCaddy!
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finger pockets, you need to get a patent.
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I’ve been watching chunker video’s and I notice that some, Like Dan Cox’ the limb seems to kick a lot when it cuts, where others like Wayne’s doesn’t seem to. What is the cause or is one operator just better at holding onto the limb? It seems to me like the distance from the rest to the blade wheel might be a factor. I wonder if a rest on each side of the blade would minimize the jump.
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Hello Andy
I have a rest on each side of the blade.
I can feel vibration but hardly any shock or jerking .
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Not much of a problem. I am aware of it. I find that running the limb straight in does give me a little pull. If I hold my end of the limb up a little and slant the limb a little from left to right it eliminates that little kick.TomC
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I tried Chris’ at Argos and it was easy to use, well done.
So i had an unexpected experience happen in the middle of the night. Yesterday the neighbor that lives 1½ miles away knew it’s going to get really cold this weekend and next week. He showed up with a small trailer full of 18" maple logs cut to 18" lengths with his ATV. My son and I split the wood and cut it down to fit our potbelly stove. Last night we stuffed the stove like we did with Oak before bed. We turned the damper down and closed the bottom vent per our routine. We all woke up in the middle of the night because of the intense heat in our little cabin. I could see a slight glow to the old stove. I’m not sure what kind of maple the wood is. I opened up the damper and threw a cup of water in it and then threw a couple of green Oak logs in there. After an hour I got it to cool down enough to sleep again and woke up with some nice embers this morning to rekindle the stove.
I think I will save the maple for our subzero weather during the day time and use the Birch at night.
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Good responses BiilS.
See . . past the maths books, charts and web-sites every wood type at different drying/cured states needs a “different hand” to operate with.
“Only Burning, is Learning”
Damn good neighbor you got there. Now how you going to pay-back?
We Are All On our Way To Better
Steve Unruh
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He built a big brand new house that was finished last March. He too lives off grid but has a big generator and huge propane tank to heat and cook. When I had a skid steer here to make my driveway, I backfilled dirt around his home. This winter I spent 3 hours digging his truck out that broke through the thin layer of frost in the ground and into the mud. His Boss plow was so heavy, his front wheels were buried past his axles. I usually make sure I take the first step to help someone because one never knows when i will be in need for help myself. I was taught that when I was real young.
He is a good neighbor and I try to be as well.
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you might want to check your seals if you shut the air down the stove should respond .
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Good thoughts Steve. Bill, a wood stove can be your best friend, or your worst enemy. Do you have a way to control chimney fire?? A choked down stove with wet wood can make lots of creosote in a chimney, and then take off like a rocket when you aren’t ready or looking. Paul is right, a tight chimney/stove should be very controllable. I would vote for a half full heater, then get up in the night to refill, and go to the bathroom. 
Just say’n.
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Hi Bill,
I woke up to a rumbling sound like a jet engine one night as my creosoted (then) block and flue tile chimney cleared itself. That was just before I cleared myself, lol! I heard a clay tile snap! Ho tihs, I thought, this is real fire time. I shut the stove and chimney dampers down and went outside. I didn’t see any flames shooting out of the chimney, but the smoke was pouring out like a locomotive hell bent for election! Didn’t sleep at all that night even after it started to subside. Yes, I had burned a lot of not so dry wood early in the season for a couple of weeks or so, can’t remember what it was. Then damping it down at night. A very scary experience. Water down the chimney would probably have cracked a bunch of tiles. I took that chimney down a year or so after that and installed 8" SS insulated pipe. Pricey stuff??? Not when you consider the other could cost your life! I felt lucky as heck the next day.
If you haven’t yet, do immediately install fire(smoke) and carbon monoxide detectors also.
Pepe
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100% wood heating all my life in several different stoves, furnaces and boilers I would not recomend during night - choking down at all unless there is only glowing charcoal left. Creosote bildup often contains a lot of tar. Hot enough fire will burn the tar, gasifier or stove (before it reaches the chimney). Wet wood and/or lack of air will keep temps down.
Air tight stoves are rear. If you do get a chimney fire, instead of shuting down, feed your stove with lot’s of thin and dry stickers and go WOT. There will be no oxygen left in the chimney and the fire will suffocate. This method is used even by the fire brigade.
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I think what BillS was describing was a all-gone-to-HOT-glowing-char-bed in his little cast-iron pot belly stove.
Not a chimney/creosote fire . . . yet.
I never shut off my primary air in my very capable airtight large cast iron to less than 20% of primary air before going to bed. I fear going into a smoldering CO emmeter while sleeping. The sleep you do not wake up from.
I do NOT fuel-load up either to avoid a too large all gone-to-HOT-char overheating.
Yep. My low denstry conifer wood means I only have 3-4 hours with Inside to outside 30-40F temperature differnetial conditions before the electric furnace thermostat wakes me Grid-Gobbling and I have to get up, woodstove refuel, settle-in stable, before going back to bed. Good old-man time to pee anyways.
BillS. you may recall me saying this is part of why you want to make/get a really, really heavy 350-500 pound woodheating stove. Slow to get up to heat, yeah. But then that “mass” will be your thermal-carrythrough-flywheel.
JO, Carl and Mr Pepe they do sell for a chimney rocket light off condition a throw into the stove extingiser rod.
Looks like stick of dynamite or a road flare. You light it end cap like a road flre. toss it in. It burns self oxidizing excluding all new oxegen air and flow starving the chimney fire.
I do have one next to every wood stove I’m invoved with
Regards
Steve Unruh
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