Sorry, I didn’t realise. Go to (2.5.2 Design…) Anyway, that’s the one I commented on.
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This year’s tally is 5 face cords of hardwood; mostly maple, and 2 face cords of softwood mostly pine… based on passed years that will be enough for even a hard winter.
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Hey David. I also always plan for a hard winter just in case. Are you having to brush your chimney during the winter to counteract the use of pine?
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No not really, I use the softwood for a fast hot fire in the mornings. I do sweep the chimney every fall but never get anything but flakey light stuff. It’s those smoldering fires that cause all the problems that and wet wood I think.
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Early morning wood consumption calculations:
During the past mounth I burned
2000 pounds for heating/hot water/cocking
Saving 150$
200 pounds for driving
Saving 150$
Conclution: I’d better do some more driving 
BBB
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Good morning JO.
Years ago I paid for my farm selling wood at $27 a cord ( 5700 pounds ) delivered to the mill 15 miles away.
Now days I use that cord of wood to put my truck down the road a LONG WAY !!
BBB
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Hi mr. Wayne
What is the price of firewood now over the pond? Here a cord (4m3) of beech is sold for about 250$ and oak for 200$.
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Hello Kristijan.
I think a cord of oak wood cut into firewood lengths and dried would sell for about $200 if you could find a buyer . Very few people in my area heat with wood anymore .
The wood I mention above was poor quality and not fit for saw timber . Hauled in tree lengths and green . Back in the late 80s and early 90s I was glade to get the $27 a cord. I think now the same wood sells for about $50.
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Someone was WAY too impatient on getting their logs down to chunker size…
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Cheaper than a membership at a fitness club is cutting wood chunks
I cringe a little as I cut up this kiln dried wood but it was free for the taking from a construction site dumpster. Got a 3000 lb load this summer and have been converting it into fuel sized pieces
The 90 lb 6" X 8" timber is cut into 3" lengths then hand split into 2" chunks
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Where there’s a will, there’s a way. Love to see the waste become the waste not.
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Got my blade(s) mounted on my axle. Just need to sharpen/shape the blade, find a sturdy-enough frame/anvil, and get my old riding mower engine going again. 
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Looking good
Were those blades originally a diamond saw?
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Looking great, how are you going to mount the two blades together? Will you cut the “snail” shape and weld the edges tigether?
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My plan was to cut one blade with a snail a bit small, then use it to cut a slightly bigger snail in the other disc (my plasma cutter tip is 1/2 inch from the edges of the “standoff” so the second snail will be a 1/2 inch bigger if I trace around the first snail.) This would give a 2-bevel edge, similar to the fancy Fiskars splitting axes, which I’m hoping will cause the chunks to split themselves with the grain as it’s being cut.
I’m curious, could I use my mild-steel MIG welder to join those discs near the second bevel/edge?
I also have a smaller piece of 1/4 inch steel plate that I’m going to bolt to the outside surface to help with rigidity and act like a “washer” for the bolts.
I got them from the scrap pile of an equipment rental place. I think they’re made to cut concrete like these… 
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Great idea!
As for welding, you risk makeing the blades brittle.
I usualy go with inox electrodes when welding hard steel. I dont know why but they seem to heat the material less. Allso l weld every material of less thain 2mm thicknes with inox. It tends to mske less burnholes. I am talking about stick welding, l havo no experiance with tig.
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Hi Brian, preheat, and post heat is how I have always welded hardened steel. I have welded lots of leaf springs this way. If you don’t have a oxy-acet. torch you could use mapp gas, or forge to heat to a dull red, weld then heat to dull red after weld. Let it cool slowly no water. Al
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I have found that I can reshape not and reset the teeth on the bandsaw blades
I have been using 3/4" wide by 3 TPI blades and using a thin cutoff wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder just touch the back of each tooth to sharpen
Then clamp the blade in a vice and using a small pin punch and hammer , tap the teeth to reset them
Takes about 20 min and the blade cuts better than new
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Something to consider for wood storage, and drying, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NEyzjnONQI
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That’s pretty impressive! I wonder how much they cost, before and after shipping. I might be visiting family in Finland this spring; maybe I can stash a few in my suitcase on the way back…
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