From what I read, the conform was very easy to turn in the heat.
2 Likes
Good point’s there Kristijan, these was user friendly, and with no ash-cone the reduction/ charbed was fast self-repairing. I once used an old imbert hearth in my old Volvo-build, due to a lot of bridging problems, i’ve often burned the charbed all the way down, leaving the cone empty. Poking a lot and running the fan about 10 minutes usually fixed this and i was good to go again, an ash-cone insulated hearth takes a lot more time to get going, should better be emptied and refilled with fresh charcoal (and some ash) to get going.
Just some of my thoughts and experiences.
5 Likes
A little progress on the moped-gasifier, i’ve made a grate from an old trailer wheel bearing washer, and a piece of a Imbert grate that i’ve found in the woods.
I mounted it on a threaded rod, to make it adjustable in height an turnable for shaking.
In the bottom of the gasifier to be, i’ve welded a nut for this to go through.
In place.
This is going to be the clean-out door, im going to put the outlet pipe on top of this.
Here’s the nozzlepieces i cut from the old Imbert, im going to weld one of the in a thick-walled pipe for the central-nozzle.
Now a charcoalgas newbie as me need some help, i’ve looked around in my books for nozzle height’s but there’s varying results, i think about starting around 4-5 inches?
Suggestions are welcome
6 Likes
Goran, you know what Jan would say, “how do you do all this”. The distance of 10 cm to the grille will probably be too little, maybe 15 cm will be better, as you have planned to raise or lower the grille so that correction will be possible. What is the diameter of the imert nozzles? You have the air supply planned in the middle in the sketch, maybe you would consider doing it under the top and screwing the inside of the hose with the nozzle into the plumbing and the piece from the top would have an ignition opening.
3 Likes
I know for a fact that you guys are smarter than me but i cannot see a need for a adjustable grate at all are you thinking it will plug up ? i can imagine maybe on a stationary build u might need some movement but mounted on the back of a moped i cant see it packing down while its making gas , anyway i am looking forward to seeing the rest of the build in pictures and being proven wrong .
Dave
5 Likes
That proves how dumb you are Dave. I took a test on the interweb and it said I ain’t smarter than anyone. That has to include you.
2 Likes
Ha, Tone, we pick mushrooms in the woods but Swedes pick gasifier parts 
Goran, whats the engine displacement?
Indeed, 10cm seems short but only because you plan on a central downward nozzle. Keep in mind going this way will make the whole thing higher, meaning less hopper space. There is always a voyd under the central nozzle wich has to be taken in to a count. If it was me l wuld make a 3 nozzle sideways design, kinda like what Giorgio posted not long ago about his new cooking gasifier. If you go this way 10cm height might be about right.
10 Likes
Hi Tone, thanks for the suggestions, i’ve thought 10cm was maybe to little, and better go too long because i can raise the grate.
The nozzles are 14mm inside, im thinking about putting pieces of hydraulic piping inside for a reducer, getting down to 10mm, and grind them inside so they are more restricted at the tip.
As for the plumbing it’s a great idea, im thinking about putting a t-fitting directly under the top, with a plug in upper end and air coming from the side.
If im not going Mako-style nozzles (in a ring, from the sides).
1 Like
Hi Dave, this is just the way i work, if i can overly complicate something, i’ll go that way, often not by intention (must be something wrong in the brain of mine)
I often start with over-complicated builds that i refine into something simpler that works better.
4 Likes
Hi Goran , you sound just like Tom Holton he said the exact same thing ! 
I guess its just lazy old me that plumbs for the easy way round a problem , and you guys build the smartest and best running units , the Rolls Royce of gasifiers compared to my BSA Bantam
Dave
4 Likes
Hi Kristijan, fun you mention that about pickin’ mushroom’s, two times i’ve found gasifier parts in the woods, one time was when me and wife was out, looking for mushroom’s. You can imagine she was impressed with my “harvest” 
As for the gasifier, the engine it’s going to power is 125cc four stroke.
As i intended from the beginning was to build what i called a “Mako style, 4 horizontal nozzles” what you say makes sense, and the more i think about it it should be easier to build it that way, 3 nozzles should be better, and i have a piece of stainless pipe that should fit the housing, to mount the nozzles on.
Decisions…
4 Likes
We should never forget: lazyness is the mother of all inventions.
I think doing something more simple often leads to new ideas, that moving us forward.
3 Likes
Hi Goran, as I already mentioned, I used a SORNIK BATA MOTORJA UTB fi=32 ŠTORE 402 - 404 UTB 300 - 340 - 445 - 550 - 640 - 643 for the nozzle, I first welded 3/4 of the thread to it to be replaced, then I heated it and reduced the diameter of the hole by forging and then increased it with a steel punch Izbijač set 8 mm, of course in heated state.
2 Likes
Sorry to mix in, Tone means piston pivot. Translation error.
3 Likes
Thanks, wondering what it was, Google just tells me it was some kind of women’s shoes.
Piston pins is someting i’ve thought about using, lots of material in them.
For this gasifier i probably use the Imbert nozzles with some kind of reducer inside, hoping the Kanthal nozzle will protect the tube inside.
2 Likes
I like that idea of shaping/forging nozzles.
At one of my imbert builds i’ve used some long pipes, used for distances, to bolts for exhaust manifolds at big trucks, we changed them out often at work.
These was of a good material, holding up well in heat.
These was originally used to take up thermal stress in the manifold bolts.
2 Likes
I have used them a fair bit recently. First time was in my single nozzle wood gasifier for small engines based on a design from Joni. I haven’t yet used them for charcoal purely but I think it’s a high quality steel and should hold up.
2 Likes
Hi guys,
the proper in-English term for the piston to connecting rod piece is: Wrist-pin.
Move yours and you’ll see why.
S.U.
4 Likes
Ha! Ha! GoranK, not weird style of thinking at all.
In schools at times I was considered quite the artist.
No! Not at all. Actually terrified by a blank page. Any blank, can-do-anything settings. My Wife knows me well now, unable to “see” minds-eye could be decorating.
Nope. Nope throw all of your paints up on a wall. And then scrape off what isn’t right; what does not work. Soap carvings: just remove all of the stuff in the way to the pirates cannon hidden inside.
I’d tell that to others and they would not believe me.
This way works. Works well. If a bit messy.
Like all real Life.
Regards
Steve Unruh
4 Likes
And just to complete another name where i come from they are known as Gudgeon pins or even small end’s
Dave
2 Likes