Volvo is running again, it was pretty flooded, maybe the temperature sender was the culprit?
Or the ground connection in right inner fender?
Will see if it starts tomorrow…
I built a insert restriction, to choke it down some, this also raises the restriction, both to get right height between nozzles and restriction, and to create a “shelf” to hold ash insulation.
95mm restriction to start with.
Slowly forward…
The Volvo started right up today, good, then it died and would’nt start again…found the problem, no gas… well i just had put back the instrument cluster, because i had it indoors in an attempt to repair the speedometer, with the cluster back i could see the low fuel light shining brightly.
No luck with the speedometer, shows 80km/h standing still, drops to zero when the car is mowing… well, it’s another days trouble.
I built a “basket” for the grate plate, from an old water tank, when i cut the tank, there was some water, and some old leafs inside, as it get hotter it started to steam, and smell something terrible (i almost throwed up) , it turned out there also was a dead mouse inside, cooking.
The grate basket is going to stand freely inside the gasifier. I cut some stands to raise it next to reduction cone. About 4" of space for ash below it.
The grate basket in place. This is going to be a “active grate” where all gas passes the grate holes.
As i intend to use worse quality wood in this, im planning to use a grate scraper/sweeper.
This is going to be centered around a piece of a rock-drill (Tone knows why )
That’s OK Goren. A couple of years ago my truck sat for a month because it wouldn’t start and I remember putting gas in it and the gauge said it had half a tank. Two foot of snow on the ground and I didn’t want to try and crawl under it. It didn’t have no gas in it. Even Karl is smarter than me.
Hi Goran,
I am in the middle of reading about your blow torches and I have a couple from my father-in -law. My question is how can you tell the difference between a gasoline and a kerosene torch? I am sure they are not ethanol.
Hi Bob, yes the bottom of the firetube is going to sit on the grate plate, loose fit to give some room for expansion.
Ash will seal the “basket” and some high-temp insulation on top.
Hi Darrel, that is a good question, i don’t know why fuel type never is stamped on blow torches?
But some “rule of thumb” kerosene types has a very powerful pre-heating, often placed directly in the flame, they always have a pump for pressurizing also, and “often” a small valve to release the pressure when not in use.
Gasoline types have a simpler pre-heater, close to the flame, or under it.
The may miss a pressure pump, in that case the bowl for pre-pre-heating (before lighting) is close, or made in the tank, to heat the tank for pressure.
Gasoline and ethanol types are never (almost) equipped with a release valve, for fire safety reasons.
Hope this cleared some?
If you post a pic of them i may help you more.
You mentioned using your battery charger for electrochemical metal cleaning. Do you happen to remember what volts and amps it was running at and what acid you used?
I am trying to clean my SS TIG welds using the TIG welder as the power supply, but I can’t make it work.
Hi Bronlin, i’ve never tried stainless cleaning with tig/electricity, i just use wire brush and fine flap-disc IMPORTANT both wire brush and disc should be ss type, and never used on everything not stainless.
For welds clean and good looking i use a felt-flap disc, and polish (bar) works pretty good.
I’ve also tested a paste that should be brushed on the welds, and then cleaned off, worked good on nice welds- going to check what it’s brand. May this be named pickling paste in english? Or is google translate fooling me again?
As for rust removing i use standard drain cleane (caustic lye) stirred in hot water, volts 12-24, choking down the amp’s with various light bulbs in series, until the hydrogen bubbling don’t really “boils” if i remember this, a 20 inch chainsaw bar i use 8volts 10amps, in 2 hours.
Thanks Goran. The parts I have are very intricate to clean with some tight places, so the electrochemical cleaning is the really the best option. But the up front cost is a bit more than I would like. Maybe it is time to just give it up and go with your method for cleaning the welds.
And I have heard of the pickling paste method.
Goran, I apologize for burdening your topic with my “problems”, … well, I went to look at a Volvo 940, the condition is solid, there is some rust in certain places, the interior is good and clean, it has been standing for 10 years, one the petrol injection nozzle does not work, it has 135,000 kilometers on the odometer… The luggage compartment is quite large, if I cut out the bottom of the spare wheel compartment, the gasifier could be lowered by 10-20 cm, so there could be an opening for cleaning the ash below. It would definitely be good to install a metal partition behind the rear seats, which would represent an airtight barrier between the luggage and passenger spaces,…
I like this engine, “old school” Swedish experts…
Hi Tone, no worries, it’s just fun talking, and if i can help some, im glad.
That sounds like a pretty good volvo if price is right, this are sturdy built cars, and 135000km sounds like “new” , i believe my 740 has 350000km something on the meter.
This is a good engine for conversion i believe, lot’s of parts available in Europe, and much “tuning” stuff available. These engines are used alot for rallye/racing around here.
These should be interference engines, but i have “ripped” the timing belt atleast 3 times in different b230 engines, and never bent a valve.
And replacing the timing belt can be done on the roadside.
If this particular 940 don’t run, first check fuel pump (in tank) should be humming some seconds when turning ignition on, if not there is a fuel pump relay that often breaks, check.
This is the first easy checks.
I believe this one has Bosch injection / ignition?
The seller is a man of “our” type, he dismantled the nozzles, three are working, one is not, he also tested it on the cable from the other (working) nozzle, … it must have stopped, … the price of the car is 1400 Eur
A nozzle should be no problem to find a good used one, should be the same on some older vw’s, audis, and Fords.
1400€ seems a fair price i believe, here in Volvo’s birthplace, they cost around 1000-3000€, often has run a lot of km then.
the possibility of installing a gasifier in the Volvo 940 and in the 850 station wagon, in both variants an airtight barrier behind the rear seats was designed
Goran, today l decided to start and move the old Škoda, its been standing still for about 6 months with no gas and it didnt start today. Your words resonated with me and sure enaugh, fuel pump did not run. After spending a shamefull amount of time trying to figure it out, l remembered this was a woodgas vehicle… with a fuel pump shutoff swich long story short, it started on the first turn when the pump was on
Kristijan, I am happy you stopped and methoughticallying…thought this all out carefully. Made me chuckle and lol.
What’s this switch for, oh ya DOC truck.
It happened to me a couple times, also tried to start on gasoline with woodgas valve open, and wonder why it runs so crappy, and stalls if just touching the throttle
Nowadays i need control lights and stuff to remember…
well i just had put back the instrument cluster, because i had it indoors in an attempt to repair the speedometer, with the cluster back i could see the low fuel light shining brightly.
)
)
long story short, it started on the first turn when the pump was on