That might explain why when I looked the 80v were all sold out.
How much faster does the new 60v spin?
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60v spins 13,000 RPM and the chain moves at 82 feet per second according to Greenworks.
I have no information on the 80v since I donât have it in front of me yet.
The way you tell the new gen from the old Gen, the new Generation saws only have green on the top near where you put in the battery. Older gen is a mix of black and green in different panels.
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13k puts it in the league with gas powered saw and probably the fastest electric. I think the old 60v spun at like 10-11k. I think it was the old 60v came with a skip chain and they ditched it for a full chain. Is the sprocket removeable? I wonder if you can switch the sprocket and get the larger chain.
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I donât know yet. Reviews of any real substance are nonexistent. Just âhey look itâs electricâ
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Ill watch your review video and give it a thumbs up if you post the link. 
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I definitely would like to make a review of the two and compare to the old Gen 60v. The old one has worked just fine itâs just slow like most battery saws.
Edit: I was checking the owners manual and it looks like the sprocket is replaceable. They at least sell replacement drive sprockets. Not sure if itâs a universal design however. It would be neat to put a 24" bar on the fast 60v.
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If it is replaceable, there is a 50/50 chance that they copied the drive sprocket from someone else or just bought the part from a local shop that make knock-offs parts from a major brand.
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The new 60v arrived early, so I got the 8ah battery charged in like 45 mins. These chargers donât play around.
I tested with a limb first, bear in mind this is all 2 years felled wood so the exterior is a little punky. Tree was already dead standing when we had it cut down by professionals. This is oak, I forget if it was red oak or white oak.
Limb took me maybe 6 seconds to cut through but itâs only a hand span wide.
Then I cut two different upper trunk portions maybe 18" diameter but Iâll subtract 2" because of the punky exterior.
Iâd say these took about 45 seconds to cut through.
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Iâm going to make this incredibly easy.
I see no reason to buy the 80V variant. It has less power than the new 60v variant and it is incompatible with even Oregon bars which is supposed to be who makes them. I tried fitting a 24" bar to the 80v and it appeared it would but but the Oregon branded bar was too wide.
The only way I could see using the 80v variant is if you already had some 80v Greenworks tools. Iâm not even going to bother cutting anything with it, my intent was to put on a longer bar but the 20" on my 60v is sufficient for everything I have. I can cut a 36" trunk in two cuts and share batteries that my mother has already bought for her tools.
Going to return the 80v to Amazon and try to get my money back on the spare bar if I can.
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The chains are sharp!! Im still on my stock sharpening. But it is starting to get a little dull. I need to invest into some better tools than I have yet. On my todo list 
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Hi Cody, you should be able to adapt almost every bar to that saw i believe, use an angle grinder to widen/make longer the elongated hole for the bar studs, if to wide, put some short pieces of pipe on the studs to âcenterâ it.
Remember to drill a new oiler hole if not in right position.
Can be hard to drill in bars, but drilling slow in a drill press often works, also grind some where holes is to be drilled, to go down some of the surface hardening.
To make the bar fit against the sprocket i use to cut it with angle grinder to correct shape, then cut the groove deeper with a thin disc, not super important that this part of the groove is exactly sized. Be careful when cutting the groove, disc like to bind, and throw the angle grinder.
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The entire bar geometry is just off. This bar was just too wide for the 80v.
The 20" 60v is plenty for me. One of them was going to be returned anyways.
I might give the 80v to my father as a birthday and fatherâs day present. He doesnât have any cordless chainsaws and I saw him fighting with his extension cord saw last time. This 80v isnât a bad saw by any means itâs just not what I need, I already have 60v batteries for the other saw and Iâd hate to have to buy more batteries. Dad could use this saw more than I could.
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Hereâs some side by side pictures of the two.
The new generation saws are black with a green top where the battery goes. Old style has green side plates.
Both are brushless motors and neither have a âwind-upâ like some electric saws require.
The 60v has two captive nuts on its side plate. The 80v does not use captive nuts theyâre just plain nuts. Donât lose them!
Tensioner is adjusted with a flat headed screwdriver on both, accessible through the side plate.
Both have automatic oilers, both hold a lot of oil.
Both have good metal Dogs for biting into the wood when bucking logs.
The new gen 60v has more metal reinforcement, Iâm glad. While it may use a .325 chain instead of a 3/8" chain Iâm sure I could find a drive sprocket to exchange in there. Just need to learn more about chainsaws.
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Cody does the 60 volt Greenworks charger have a built-in battery cooling fan?
My older sister just moved from 20 acres farm to a postage stamp 7500 square-foot tract house. Sigh. What at 72, is want she wanted.
With a 21" walk behind mower it is 8 short passes in the rear; and 10 short passes in the front.
10 minutes and three bags full with a gasoline Honda or Toro. Engines never getting warmed up, ran long enough to clean their oils.
Came down to a Greenworks 60 volt; Skil 40 volt; or a Harbor freight 40/80 volt Atlas lawn-mowers.
Too many buyer complaints on the H.F. Atlas system centered around the batteries having to sit one hour to cool before their chargers would kick-in.
Went with the Skil as she actually did not need much, and replacement Skil 40 volt batteries are available and reasonable. Works with their weedeater-edger and leaf blower too. Sheâll never need their chainsaw. No experience with it, so not recommending.
The Skil 40 volt charger DOES have a battery cooling fan.
Your Greenworks??
S.U.
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Yes it has a charger fan
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A good brother would build a automated GPS set up.
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Wrong thread?
GPS to get the <1cm accuracy can be tricky or expensive. You need a signal correction withing like 15 miles which helps correct for atmospheric interference. And you want l2/l1 correction on the bot itself, and those modules are 200-400 dollars for the cheapest ones.
However they mostly use a standard protocol for the GPS called NEMA which has a few different versions. And the GPS correction signals are usually ntrip if they are free. However commercial correction services exist and donât necessarily use the ntrip protocol.
I have found that if holes needs to be drilled in very hard steels it helps to make a masonry drillbit (the ones with a hardened steel bit in the tip, donât know the english name nor do I seem to be able to explain it properly 
) very sharp and drill slow with that along with cooling (I usually use a spraybottle with water and some washing up liquid in it), it is easy to know how hot it is when the water boils, it seems to work pretty well.
I try to keep the water from boiling at all times, slow and cool keeps drillbits sharp pretty long time.
While we are on the subject, a centre drill for a lathe works very well to use in a drillpress as well. Very nice holes with one of these and there is several different sizes.
Perhaps this is old news to everybody but perhaps it helps someone
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Yes, those hard-metal tipped bits(i donât know what they are called either) works well, but you really must use a drill press (donât ask me how i know) needs a good amount of pressure.
For some very hard chainsaw bars i just use a quick âshotâ with the plasma cutter, only some finishing grinding needed.
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