Did you ever get a chance to run some spring water to the condensing barrel and collect some tar?
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Thats the plan. Some dayâŠ
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Hi Kristijan, did you check out the drawings i posted about tar retorts, in the charcoal vs wood-thread?
I believe it was around post 200-220?
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I did but l hadnt yet figured them out fully. I will once l get back to the project, wich will be soon. I need tar and lots of it for our house fasade. Thank you
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Ok, ask if can explain any better, 
One good thing to keep in mind when making tar is: tar should avoid boiled off and re-condensed, like in distilling.
Tar someway becomes a better wood-preservative if it âsweatsâ out of the wood, runâs down to a non-heated bottom to be collected there.
By some way the more brownish tar, better to use, to much heat gives black tar.
Many wants black tar for the looks, and to have it this way the tar is mixed with very fine pulverized charcoal. This should also give benefits where the charcoal âchrystalsâ reflects sunlight and make it work better as a shield for the wood.
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Wery good tips Goran. Im now thinking how to make that happen in the Kursk⊠its gonna be hard⊠l probably need a second vessel.
Wich wood wuld you preffer for tar? We got no pine⊠beech, hornbeam and maple is what l have most abundant plus smaller bushes like hazel and dogwood.
I actualy want a lighter tar. My main protection will be burning the wood, and when brushed off l alredy have darkened wood. I dont want it completely black in the end
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@Woodrunner, l need expert help! Im making tar today, blowing gases in a oil drum to condense but l stumbled on a problem.
Thats my setup.
I designed this so that exess condensate flows out the top and tar gets trapped behind, since it shuld be hevyer thain water and sink. But does it??? I just tryed to catch some condensate in a jar and it seems the tar floats on the surface??? Plese help, l got half a cord of wood cooking and wuldnt want to mess it up.
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Hi Kristijan, can your tar run from the kiln? Or is it passing in to the drum in gaseos state?
Tar gets different if its boiled and then condensed (distilled) instead of âsweatingâ out of the wood, then running to a collecting vessel.
I think maybe you have to much heat? Tar gets best under ,maybe, 280°c.
And: there are different tar fractions A-tar, heavy, dont float, best tar for wood treatment.
And: B-tar, water soluble, some fractions float, som sink and blends with A-tar. To collect much of A-tar it needs slowly âcookingâ, low temperatures, heating from top and down, collecting tar from bottom.
B-tar floats on A-tar and it separates some by time.
I would say collect everything you get and let it separate by time, cooling of.
And, what types of wood you use? Can give very varying results, wood âwith leavesâ often gives more of thinner tar, like B-tar.
Wood âwith needles? pins?â Gives thicker, heavier tar.
A, and B-tar, is just an old classification, to give a hint of great or good tar, in fact there are probably 1000s of different âmolecule chainsâ in just one batch.
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Thank you so much Goran this was most helpfull. Yes, l am using the Kursk and the only way to use it is as it is, reboiling the tar. Whatever l get, l get.
This makes a lot of sence now. I cook 100% beech today, hence the thin tar. We dont have any conifer trees here (needles), just maybee 10 spruces on the whole property.
I will report later. Thanks for now.
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I get a lot of tar from the condensation from the hopper, itâs like chewing gum, how can I use it as wood protection?
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Jan, thats exactly what l need! I got a concreete fish pond that l thod to water proof with tar.
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Sorry, I donât think I have enough for a fish pond. 
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Perhaps we should build the JanA to Kristijan International Tar Pipeline 
. Just have all the daily wood drivers in Sweden dump their hopper tar to Kristijan so he may recycle it.
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Cody, JO once sent me his hopper tar for my birthday, l still have it and use it only for special stuff! Like renewing signs on our charcoal stand.
Ok. I took this liquid l thod was just wood vinegar and poked a stick in. Looked watery. But when it dryed it became black! It apears there realy is alot of disolved tar in there and l like the colour! While l only acumulated litle of the hevy, thick stuff, l have loads of this liquid, probably 30l. Geting somewhere!
Indeed, looking at the light, l can see blobs of brownish oil floating in the solution. Is this the light B tar?
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Haha Kristijan, if you arrange that pipeline I could send you another 30-40 liter right away and another liter or two every month 
I use as much as I can for painting but tar is still accumulating.
Tar does smell good, but donât you think fish will start swim with bellies up if you smear the pond with it?
Heat it. At 30-35C it will feel like ordinary paint. I usually wait for hot sunny day and put the can on a dark surface towards a south wall for a few hours. Perfect for shed or garage doors.
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Well that sure is a lot of DOWing 
Hell, even the tar is worth something, let alone all the free miles!
I coated the pit we dug out (needed good soil to level the lawn) with about 2" of glass fibre reinforced concreete, now lm thinkig to seal it with tar then smear on a nother inch or so of hard concrete to protect the water from direct contact with tar. But it looks like l will need to end up useing a propane torch and bitumen.
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Yes I drop my tar out just after to good drive when the gasifier is hot. The tar flows out runny but it is hot.
Bob
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Accidents happenâŠ
I must of have missed an ember when venting the kiln prior to unloading and hell brake loose while l was home eating lunch. 300 pounds of premium char gone and whats worse, it damaged the kiln. But the insulation was geting real torn apart and it was time for a renovation anyway.
Now lm thinking to make some changes. Will seeâŠ
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At least your were at home when it happened. Looking forward to the fix
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Oh no! Thatâs a lot of lost income and your entire valley will have raw meat for a while.
Embers in ash can be live for longer than we imagine.
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