I have to show what I’m interested in, too, is only in Swedish, but many pictures.
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Hi Tom
I only cut the fuel pump on my truck.
Why deactivate both the injectors and the pump?
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Impressive photos, Jan. Great camera skills.
Depends on its range. Up to 300 C I would put it in the cyclone outlet. But you may want one in the hopper as well - to know when it’s time for refuling.
When driving very slowly I don’t pay much attention to the air-setting as long as it runs good. Except when the gasifier is cold I may run as rich as possible - to keep the temp up. In open road speeds I open the airvalve until I start loosing power and then back off a little from there - to keep the temp down.
The first thing that will plug from soot is the automatic idle control. I think most of us use manual idle adjustment. A string from the pedal to a knob on the dash works great. The setting needs to be adjusted anyway - cold or hot gasifier / tight or loose charbed.
I wish you were a little closer, we could play all day long 
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On 1991 and 1992 Dodge Dakota’s will siphon fuel if the injectors are left running the later models don’t. Their are probably other vehicles that do the same.
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How do I know if the injectors in my truck are siphoning gasoline or not, even with the pump off?
my truck is a toyota 1993 4 cylinder
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Thanks @JO_Olsson , it’s like I told Wayne, lucky I have you to ask.
Think I put it in the hopper, it looks like I using more wood than you JO, I have only pine and spruce.
@trigaux I think JO had problems with that, I remember his car idling even after he had shut down the gas?
I know he wrote about it in the JO’s -91 Mazda B2600 thread page 122
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Trigaux; We have had some occassions where the vacuum will pull the gasoline through the injectors while running on wood gas. I have always cut my injectors off and I can’t explain how it can happen. I believe it was Mike LaRossa that concluded his injectors were allowing his truck to use gasoline. I found it easy to disconnect, so I have always done it. TomC
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Also the gasoline fuel injectors are designed to have fuel constantly present for flow-cooling; boundary layer-floating; and end of movements stop cushioning.
Some prove OK chattering away without fuel. Some not.
Are you lucky?
S.U.
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True. It just barely keeps an idle siphoning. As soon as I touch the pedal the intake vacuum is no longer enough and the engine dies if no woodgas is present.
J sometimes take advantage of this behavor after sitting for a while. Pump off - injectors on, will save me from stalling when leaving a parking lot on stored woodgas. Before I know it the gasifier recovered and both swithes back in the correct position
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I only figured it out when the fuel gauge would keep going down when running on wood especially on long trips that was on my first truck I put an electrical fuel line valve in line that seemed to fix it.
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What kind of a valve did you use? I need one for my Škoda
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wow … great animal pictures I love it. you seem to live in a beautiful environment! It looks like my region. I also have moose on my land and a lot of birds … but I do not photograph them (congratulations for your patience)
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Nice back country you live around. Thanks for the wood gas drive.Congradulations getting your feet in the door with wood gas driveing abilitys. Its an exererating experiance driveing down the road on wood scraps.
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It does not go well, the car run if I close the secondary air completely, but then the temperature goes up to 150-190 degrees in the hopper.
Do I have any leaks or is the unit tight, or what could be the fault??
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Sounds like a pesky leak somewhere.
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Did you use the same wood as always? Same size?
A leak in the hopper can cause those heat but not weak gas and it wuld make hopper explosions.
Or, you have a hot leak (weak gas) and the rise in hopper temp is because you are overpulling on that weak gas.
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After all, I haven’t driven so much, but the wood is probably a little lighter (spruce and no pine).
I press with the fan, so I should see if it leaks, does not think the fan goes differently either (goes just as easy)
I have the whole hopper full of firewood, so it shouldn’t be that hot.
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Hm…I’ve never seen my hoppers that hot. 100C at the top of the hopper usually tells me the fuel level is about down to the nozzles. If anything, it’s my experience air leaking into the hopper will cool it. To a point of course. If fire spreads high in the wood the temp would climb, but…
What about the spruce chunks? You say they are lightweight. Severe bridging can cause the hopper temp to climb. Lightweight spruce is the only wood I try to avoid actually. It doesn’t make very good char. I imagine 100% spruce would first bridge and then fall apart to a very compact charbed. Which in turn would explain why you need to run your airvalve almost closed. Either that, or air is already leaking into your woodgas piping somewhere.
This is why vacuum guages are so helpful. They emediately tell you the state of the charbed.
I would rattle the grate and try birch chunks for a while. Birch char keeps its integrity and is much more forgiving.
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When I drove, the temperature heightened to about 120 degrees, if I then gave the car more air then the temp dropped to about 90 degrees, but then almost the car stopped.
Thinking if the filter is dense or it is dense somewhere else, would that cause the heat to rise in the hopper?
Do not understand what can cause such heat in the top of the hopper when it is full of wood.
I removed the wood, and see no tendencies for bridges.
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I think I figured out what caused the problems, but don’t have time check it out yet, think you’re right Don.
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