I thought so too. I don’t ever remember seeing an engine mounted to a baler before. I’m sure someone could haggle the price down a bit more.
International built bailers with Farmall B engines on them ( that is a small 4 cylinder) Loaded a lot of hay behind of one ( around 1950) This one looks like an Amish conversion. They put an engine on the bailer but still pulled it with horses. They may still be using square bailers like that because the round bailer and newer stuff is too big to pull with horses.TomC
Same memories TomC
Was a four cylinder air-cooled V-4 Wisconsin engine though. On a wire wrapper square baler.
I was just the youngman “grunt” labor. HAPPY when that one was broken down NOT able to puke out 90-150 pounders! 60-80 pound string bales was just right up in the top of old loose hay barns choking in the heat!
Engine on the baler let it be used just drawbar pulled by an old, or small tractor then “girl” operated.
As long as thier was a “grunt” boy around to keep that engine fueled and running. Belts tightened and such. I liked that part. Just drawbar pulled not having to fuss PTO shaft angles then able to really work small pocket fields much more timely.
HOT gasoline engine exhaust down close was the dry hay hazard fire hazard! Had watch back carefully to stop, drop and run, and beat-out.
A larger more powerful diesel tractor PTO driving is just so much more overall dry field working safe. Worth buying the fuel for that.
S.U.
Has remined me of when I would ride the bailer and with my foot push the sharp tooth sprocket that told the bail tie to kick in, I found that if I would help that sprocket around it made shorter therefore lighter bailers, I would go get the light bail and run back and push that sprocket around for the next short bail, who ever I was working for would stop and look sometimes adjust bail length but for some reason didn’t make any difference! I was a problem child!!!
Different sizes of wood put through
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Thanks for the video Dustin. You got it going your way!
Beast !! 
I keep clicking on 6:52 - BANG!! You can see all the structural pieces flex a little, very valuable building insight there.
What was the cross section on those struts that bent Dustin? Looks like with a bit more “beef” you’ll be cutting anything you want.
willing to push it to the (over the) edge! Destructive testing at it’s best.
Thank you for the nice comments
the struts were 1/2 rod. I rebuilt it with 1inch rod and have very little deflection now. I will be replacing the cutter wheel soon, the propane tank is just not holding up, to much deflection. I’m going to try to find some 3/8 or 1/2 pipe that I can make into the cutter.
Picked up a sweet New Holland model 66 baler today. It is a 1954 with a 15 hp Wisconsin that was used this season and runs beautifully. It’s a real shame to cut it up but its usefulness will live on. The owner even bought new drive belts for it. It has a 40 to 1 ratio between the belt drive and the transmission so it should run about 45 rpm at 1800 rpm.
Purchased for $500.00 and should get about $150 - $200 for scrap when I’m through. I towed it home 19 miles on back roads because it wouldn’t fit on any of my trailers. Thanks for the idea, guys. This looks like a real easy retrofit.
One stop shopping!
I’ll bet that engine would sound real good on Wood.
Excellent find for sure!
TerryL
Here’s a fella did a rebuild of maybe that engine. The specs are listed at the end. Keep us posted.
I too would like to see the Wisconsin run that chunker.
Carl, thanks for the rebuild link. This engine runs well, and the owner had a routine of pickling it with marvel mystery oil. The carb is the only thing that will get a rebuild. The flywheel starter is pretty neat.
Good find Michael.
Once you get the chunker going and the motor on wood you might as well go ahead and mount a generator on it also .
Hello Wayne, I was planning on a pulley to run a conveyor. My fuel storage container is a 87 chevy aluminum step van. I plan on pitching it at about 30% and facing the windshield south.That should dry the wood pretty good. Possibly running a conveyor into the side to feed the storage pile.
The engine uses 3 belts to drive the flywheel. I could swap primary drive belts to power a generator head.
recent upgrading of chunker design/parts
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Anyone that plans to build a chunkier should watch this. The main thing you need to get from it is, " there is a VERY high stress", on all components. In building one, your material thickness and location can not be “good”, you have to plan on “over kill” in the build. Well pointed out Dustin. TomC
You have made some nice improvements. And thank you for the sharing. It does give a good idea of the tremendous torque it takes to chunk wood.
Al D