Well crap. The original passenger manifold arrived but it was late. They’ve already sent the replacement so I guess I’ll be on the hook for return shipping. They don’t have a phone number or email address to send a specific message of “hey I know I requested that part again but the old one showed up finally can you cancel the one you just sent?”
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Did they charge you for the second one?
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Not yet, but I’m sure once they talk to FedEx and get confirmation it was delivered they’ll want me to either pay for the second manifold or get it returned. Their website states that customers do have to pay for return shipping even if it’s at a discount rate.
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Tell them they didn’t deliver on time and you want free shipping. They may write off the whole part. It happens.
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The issue is I can’t tell them anything. They don’t have a customer service line, it’s all multiple choice Help Desk junk with no option to merely send a message.
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I am not sure they CAN charge you if they sent one that already said was lost. You might actually be able to return the new part, and pay shipping, and just say it was the wrong part. 
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I shouldn’t have to pay for the replacement, as long as I let them know via the help desk that I’d like to return one of the Passenger manifolds. They’ll email a return label and likely I pay FedEx when I drop it off to them.
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Okay so take two on the intake adapter.
I tried soldering, I forgot I’m bad at soldering and my map gas torch isn’t hot enough for this big of a hunk of steel so I just rewelded all my leaky welds. I really do prefer flux core welding even if it’s dirty.
Also got the Woodgas throttle adapter sealed up with high temp epoxy and some regular JB weld on the inside. A little insurance for a puffback.
While this is drying and curing I’m going to add my O2 sensor bung to the Y pipe and change my manifolds.
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Got the shiny new manifolds in. Got my O2 sensor bung put on. This is the Glowshift kit that comes with exhaust gasket material. I tightened that clamp all the way down, she ain’t going nowheres. Nice upwards angle to keep the sensor away from any moisture on startups. Decent distance away to keep from frying the sensor or giving a false reading.
I feel downright sick to my stomach right now. Not sure if it’s the heat, the fact I haven’t ate yet, or the old sour gasoline smell. Probably all three. I’m beat.
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We call that mechanics perfume, the wife finds it just delightful
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Mechanics perfume?
I thought it was called “wife repellent”? 
Maybe it’s different with us chainsaw freaks, finding a saw, not been used since the 60s, find out it still has gas in it, when gas pours down your shirt, further down the pants?
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Hi Cody, your work looks good, i especially like your “mixer box” 
But i would recomend you turn those exhaust clamps/ bung mount in a way the flange/bolts are more upwards?
Even if it’s good ground clearance, those flanges has a bad habit to get caught in stuff, and tear away the piping.
Just a tip, been there, done that… too many times i shouldnt admit it 
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I was going to say the same thing Goran but then decided it may be too nit picky. Glad you took the hit. Didn’t seem like a lot of ground clearance to start with.
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Unfortunately that’s the only way the bung mount would set, they put it at an odd angle relative to the bung and bolts.
Also pretty sure if I tried loosening it the gasket material might tear.
It’s really higher up than it looks, the grass is really tall in that spot.
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Ok, then you may just cut the bolt’s sticking out, and “round off” the pointy corners some? 
Once i had an 1973 Mercedes diesel, on lunch-break i just drove over our “greasing pit” at the truck shop, to fast check-up a exhaust leak. The safety frame sticking up only 2 inches hooked one of the u-clamps, mounted with bolt ends down…
Well, i found the leak, it was just outside the doors, where the middle parts of the exhaust piping was left.
No time for lunch that day…
Ofcourse the mangled exhaust pipe pinched a brake line on it’s way off. I noticed that when i was almost home that day… 
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Yeah I should probably trim those bolts down. The other clamp holding the pipe extension I can go ahead and turn it at least a little sideways.
If the O2 bung hadn’t used Allen keys for the bolt head I might have been able to flip it the other way, but the frame gets in the way of me putting a key in. I’ll see about loosening both of them and if I don’t see the gasket tearing I’ll replace those with some 8mm bolts and flip that too.
It’s that real delicate metal flaky gasket.
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Got everything sealed up and my vacuum lines connected. She runs like a champ at 1.5 PSI of regulated fuel pressure. I bet in an emergency I could ratchet strap a boat tank to the roof and gravity feed this thing. Still need to get throttle cables hooked up. This engine sucks so hard on this little carb I don’t even need a choke, but maybe that speaks more for how rich it’s likely running right now.
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Nice work
A small carb is a good thing on a woodgas truck, small leaks don’t disturb the idle as much then
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I leaned towards this small of a carb because it’s just a hair smaller than the front barrels on my 60s era Quadrajet. Also there’s a lot of Hotrod aftermarket parts I can get like an adjustable main jet. I’ll likely buy the adjustable jets and pair them with the largest jets a Holley 94 can take. Maybe it’ll run ethanol fuel after that in a pinch?
I love how simple this carburetor is, I can see why Henry Ford wanted to get away from the Stromberg 97s and had his own version made that shared the flange profile.
I think a more modern version of this would be a Holley 2100 but they’re a little chunkier.
I was 
this close to using a CV40mm motorcycle carburetor but I think the float bowl was too small.
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I’ve got a question for some of the guys that have built flatbeds.
I’ve got about seven 8’ lengths of 1.5" 1/8" square tube, I planned on using it for part of my flatbed build.
Would 3" angle iron make for good cross members? I was thinking to make the cross members as wide as the frame bolted to the original bed mounts, then weld two or three of the square tube lengthwise and then using some heat treated 3x4" as wooden cross members with either 1x6 or 2x4 for the decking. I’ll toast and oil stain the wood.
Would I even need the 3x4 or could I use 2x4 as more cross members? I figure the angle and square tube should give enough tire clearance, the angle is mostly there to clear the hump in the frame. The extra step of using wooden cross members would just allow me to have lengthwise deckboards
Would the angle iron hold up or would it get twisted up by the frame of the truck? What thickness should I go for with the angle, my guess is 1/8"? Not a lot of new steel supply in my direct area and I don’t have the time to go out of county to try and get C Channel or big lengths of rectangle tube.
My general idea would be to sidesaddle my filter and gasifier to the frame, the narrow frame on the square body should help that fit decent. The bed will be as wide as the tires go, no fenders. I plan to get a Blazer tank and relocate it to the back of the truck.
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