I only know about '72 Chevelles. Maybe it was just God’s mercy to me, but they used the same master cylinder, with or without the booster. I have a vague memory of playing “find the right push rod,” since there were some variations, but the pedal worked fine. Your truck is close enough in time that it may be similarly simple. On the new vehicles, I’d be afraid to mess with these things. The ecm/pcm might dump the high energy ignition voltage through the driver’s seat to recondition unsubmissive humans.
While we’re on the topic of brakes I went ahead and changed my lines. Passenger front had a collapsed line, found that out when i had to beat that caliper off of the rotor when I was working on the suspension. Caliper is still a little sticky but I can rotate the rotor without any leverage now so it should be fine. Bled the brakes using an old drink mix jar and some rubber hose, flushed all the old nasty junk out and there were some little chunks that came out with it. Pumped until the line showed clear.
Did my rear brakes the same, I figured to change that hose while it’s easy with the bed being off. Flushed the old crud out just the same.
It’s getting too dark so I’ll do Driver Front tomorrow along with the pads. I didn’t look at the drums, I figure if I just ignore them they’ll be fine.
Got my driver’s floor in. Put my bench seat back on because I hope to at least get the bed frame done this week/weekend so I can drive it around to keep it running good. This engine takes a long time to get up to temp when you’re just idling in Park so I’m not doing much just idling it. Wasting guzzoline.
When I was doing the prep work for the floor pan I noticed a giant bulkhead hole that appears to be factory. It had the wires for the kickdown solenoid and some mattress foam shoved in. I think I’ll reroute all my extra accessory wires through that hole and find a way to glue a bicycle innertube to seal it off. Maybe take the wires out and pop rivet or button head nut and bolt the rubber in place and poke a hole with a big needle in the rubber for the wires to go through.
I still need to replace this rocker panel, and patch along the bottom edge of the seat pan. At least now I feel like I won’t fall through the floor if I hit the railroad crossing too hard.
I used to be able to buy seal kit for caluper brakes. mostly all they need is the piston blown out with compressor air, hone the bore lightly enough to remove any internal rust, clean her up and right bake together, it might be a way to fix one now days with price gouging happening in every FEILD.
I noticed that if I used the woodgas throttle as an air bleed that I got inconsistent AFR readings day by day. With the woodgas throttle totally shut and just using the gasoline carb I was able to get a very stable 14:1 ratio at idle with a near perfect 14.5:1 when put into gear. No lean pops, and no stinky eye burning richness.
Only issue with that is I had to have the idle turned way up to get to 600 RPM and it’s taking up some of the accelerator pump travel.
Pretty simple solution, just drill some tiny holes in the throttle blades. I’ll start with 1/16" for each blade and see how much that improves things. Apparently this is a common issue even on the big Holley carburetors, but normally it’s only a problem with a big lopey cam where idle needs to be high to prevent stalling. In my case it’s just because my engine is so big and the carburetor is so small.
I wonder if I’m going to have issues with the carburetor icing over? It sweats like crazy from how efficient the atomization of the fuel is. Intake still feels warm, but the plenum and carb are always cold.
I have never had a carb ice over but cold fuel is always a plus. It was probably not really helpful but we always took bags of ice in a cooler to the drag strip and packed them around the intake manifold before a run.
