If you are going to keep the high roof, I would put a wide door and a chimney and your old wood stove in one of the containers. Some days you will have small jobs and won’t want to wait to heat up the entire shop. I built a 10 ft wide room with a 8 ft ceiling. I have my tools and a work bench in there along with my wood burning furnace. TomC
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I will still have the shed you see in the picture.
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So, oddly enough someone gave me a used ceiling fan they were going to throw out. I will use it to push the heat down in the winter.
This is what I have so far. The snow and cold has slowed me down but I haven’t stopped working on the garage.
I had to load my welder and tanks on the skid steer to weld tabs on the other side of the containers. I will hopefully get roof trusses started this weekend.
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That looks great Bill, you are moving right along on it. If the weather will just hold out you might get the roof on too.
Bob
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Thanks Bob.
I will get a roof on even if it takes me all winter to do it. What else will I do from December through February? 
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Be careful those roof tops can get slick, tie your self off for safety.
Bob
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Thanks for your concern and reminder Bob. Yes,a roof over a 4/12 pitch scares me. All tin roofs scare the hell out of me. My wife may have me taped up in bubble wrap and a snowmobile helmet because she’s more fearful than I.
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Steel roofs at this time of year are vicious. That heavy frost on steel is the slickest thing imaginable. I’d rope up for sure.
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If you plan ahead and do it right you won’t have to stand on any slippery steel except the last sheet which could be done standing on a ladder. Just put movable scaffold boards on the bottom chord of the trusses and stand on that while leaning over and screwing down one sheet at a time.
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Yes ,saves alot of standing on ones head too. Looking good Bill. I am still in the dreaming stages of a shop with room for more than one project at a time and a door large enough to get a piece of equipment in.
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I plan to install the tin on the upper roof first. Then I can secure the ladder to the lower roof. I will also use a rope from above.
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I spent all day today on a 12/12 , 38’ off the ground like that today. We just take a 2x6 and screw “ladder rungs” to it. The bottom that lays on the roof is covered with linoleum sheeting so it will stick to metal and not scratch paint as easily. Two of these tied together well at the ridge hanging down each side. You can even run a screw threw to the roof framing if you are still nervous. They are light enough to move easily and you just move them along ahead or behind where you are working.
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Garage update.
Some help arrived today. My Son and my friend gave me a hand. Perfect timing. The back wall is built and both top plate have been brought forward. I will leave the front open to hopefully lift the trusses up with the skid steer and drive them to the back. So, whether that works or not, we’ll have to see.
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Somebody brought to my attention the difference of expansion and contraction between the wooden structure and the containers. Does anyone have any input for me? Maybe signs I could look for?
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I don’t think you have to worry about it. It’s common practice to use a heavy steel beam down the center of a basement, with the wood structure bolted solidly to it. No provision is made for different expansion rates.
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It’s just sitting on the ground with no foundation? That will compensate for it !
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Wood flexes and so does steel. I wouldn’t make tight clearances, just fill with insulation in between the gaps.
Bob
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You’d give a finish carpenter a stroke, but with framing, no problem.
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I like the way you think Bill. Everybody else thinks you have to lift trusses from the top which makes a really long boom necessary. Setting trusses alone will make you sleep really good after all that climbing. Been there-done that.
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