Fiat 450 tractor restoration

Hello,

Since some of you have shown interest in the restoration of my Fiat 450, I thought I’d share the process with you.

To start with a brief overview, for those who, like me, don’t know much about this, it’s a two-wheel-drive tractor with six forward gears and two reverse gears. It has a 3-cylinder diesel engine.

The tractor has close to 10,000 hours of use; it was used for farm work, in fact, it was the previous owner’s only tractor. He is now elderly and decided to retire from farming, so he sold the tractor.

You know the rest of the story: I drove it back by road, so it was in running condition, and from what I gather, it had been well maintained.

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Here are a few photos:

Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of the tractor in its original state, as I was in a rush to remove the boxes, the headlights, and the rear sockets…

But you can picture two rotten wooden boxes sitting on the fenders, and the two sockets on the right side that were used for milking cows.

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super nice little tractor… 10,000 hours and still in very good condition apparently. I had an uncle who had 2 just like it

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Yes, a farmer in the village has the exact same one; it has 13,000 hours on the clock, and his father used it before him.

A lot of people tell me it’s an indestructible tractor.

This is my first time doing mechanical work, and I find the system quite simple and straightforward.

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At first, I simply wanted to get it roadworthy for the mandatory inspection: fixing the lights, doing some basic maintenance, and so on.

In Belgium, tractors with a top speed of under 40 km/h must undergo an inspection when ownership changes if they are to be driven on public roads.

This tractor will be used for light field work, but primarily for hauling firewood which requires driving on the road.

However, since I take pride in doing a job right, I decided to completely redo the wiring harness. The existing setup had been cobbled together in places. The cables ran under the mudguards, and there weren’t enough wires. There were also a lot of unnecessary splices and bypasses.

The large junction box was located here (blue circle in the photo), and from there, the wires ran in all directions.

Once again, I regret not taking photos beforehand.

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After moving all that clutter aside, I noticed that the fender was deeply rusted; there were holes in the structural framework. You can see the rust holes in the photos.

The grille was slightly damaged and misshapen.

That was when I decided to buy two new fenders and a grille. These parts are still easy to find today, brand new and at a good price.

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Here is a glimpse of the filth that was everywhere:

So I decided to take everything apart.

Just the cab and the bodywork at first.

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Then, I took it apart a bit more to clean it.

And here it is, with the bulk of the work done. Then I dismantled a few more parts.

And I cleaned everything using a brush and acetone.

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Here is the tractor, nice and clean and ready for painting, with the wheels removed.

And then, in its new coat of paint.

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Great job David, and thorough too. :blush:
My guess is, when you are done with the restoration, that the retired previous owner would much appreciate a viewing of his old tractor all done up as you mentioned that it looked well taken care of

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Thank you for the kind words.

That is the plan; I look forward to sending him the photos once the work is finished. But he will need a little more patience.

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I completely drained the fuel system, replaced all the hoses, and installed new filters.

I did the same for the oil, replacing it entirely, and here are a few photos of the oil bath air filter.

I also completely drained the cooling system and flushed it thoroughly with clean water (the old fluid was clean, but it was the type meant for modern engines, so I was right to drain it all and buy the correct product),replaced the hoses. I haven’t refilled the coolant yet because it hasn’t arrived, but it should be here soon.

Why so much coolant? I had a delivery issue, and they gave me a second one, perfect for maintaining the other machines. Thanks to the supplier.

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Since I don’t have as much strength as most of you, I decided to add a power steering kit.

I had to modify one of the cab mounts, and here is the first use of my plasma cutter.

I also replaced the clutch pedal bushing and the pivot pin, as there was a lot of play.

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Hello DavidP.

One of the problems you will run into after an all apart equipment painting it that you have paint insulated all of the electrical ground contact points.

The big-one will be the starter mounting surface. Ahead of time learned experiences was to grease dab all of the grounding points. Then after paint dry just wipe them clean. Or cut tape squares; taped them. Now you will have to wire wheel buff them clean. You can then spray them with cold galvanizing zinc spray. It is conductive.

The tricky one will be devices that mounting self ground. And all of the various single grounding wires points. Best at reassembly look-think; paint clean and protect; versus later chasing electrical functioning gremlins that you bred.

Regards Steve Unruh

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Hi Steve,

Thanks for the heads-up; I actually repainted using a polyurethane paint that provides excellent insulation.

I did consider that, though: in addition to the standard chassis ground, I ran a dedicated ground wire from the dashboard directly to the battery, where I’m tying in the ground connections from every device.

Except for the starter and alternator, which require higher current, I masked off the contact areas with tape.

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While I had the plasma cutter out, I also modified the seat mounting plate; the original seat was too high, or rather, my legs are too short for it.

So I managed to lower the height by 10 cm by modifying the mount and swapping the seat, all while maintaining the same level of comfort.

You can see that the second cut was more precise, though I still have room for improvement.

You can’t see it in the photos, but I painted the mount.

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Here is the cutting and collage workshop; it’s a good thing I practice regularly, since I learned how to do this when I was very young.

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I took a short break from painting to make some electrical modifications: I replaced all the wiring conduits, swapped out damaged wires, and so on.

The most essential modification, in my view, was relocating the fuses from above the engine to the dashboard.

That original location had two drawbacks: the heat and the unnecessary back-and-forth routing of wires.

So, I tidied up, sheathed, and secured the entire front wiring harness leading to the dashboard (I found it convenient to use small spade connectors for the headlight connections).

That’s where the 3D printer comes into play. I’ll let the pictures show you the rest.

You can see in the photos that I used part of the fender from my wife’s old car; since it was attached to the vehicle, I told her that its soul was now in the tractor haha.

I didn’t think it through quite enough—there was a slight lack of depth, so I modified the part, and since I had the space, I added a label (“fuses”).

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Beautiful work David :+1:
I wouldnt dare to use the tractor in this super shape :smiley:

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David, what Göran said. Also, if I didn’t know I’d guess this wasn’t your first restoration. Very neat work you’re doing.

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