joep, in a crossdraft the surprise shure will come with longer use, a lot of slag build up what disturbs the gas stream and a melted nozzle…the fenomen with the shorter distance and good gas from my sight comes from reusing the first coal, what has dried out with the first run, and maybee the pieces had become a bit smaller…a bit longer or shorter way of the gas makes no difference, longer: gas cools a bit more and maybee a bit more restriction of gas speed…to short: reduction area not can work…
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don, i was wrong , rpm is 1750 max…what have you calcolated out?
today finally some rain thanks to our god father jesus …the seeds are watered now…this is very important here, because more long the crops lay in the ground dry, more crops are taken away from the ants, they bring it in their nest, and when at least comes rain also their crops get wet and the bring it again on the surface for drying again, what not works, because the roots come soon and all this crops become like a little hillnice green at least, but they are so narrow and cannot make crops than in the summer, and on other parts of the field there grows nothing therefore, because they brought all away and make a big disorder…therefore we wait until last minute before rain for making the seed…we will not powder the seed crops with poison, otherwise the ants would not be a problem…at this point i will ask our experts here if there is a naturally solution for threating the seed crops against ants??
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I pray to the Yehovah Almighty God the Father and by His Word Yeshua the Son that the seeds you planted will produce a 100 fold and the ants too can have a little food too. Good organic grain to eat. God Is Good, many blessings on your hard work and this years crops you have planted for His Name sake. Blessings and peace Giorgio.
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If I ask “artificial intelligence” how to get rid of ants,… well, for some questions it’s a good helper,…
how to get rid of ants in a wheat field
Copilot said:
Copilot
You can use natural methods to get rid of ants in a wheat field that are safe for the soil, plants, and the environment. Here are some effective approaches that have been proven to work:
1. Vinegar and water (1:1)
Works: covers ants’ pheromone trails and confuses them.
Use: spray on ant trails and areas around anthills.
Note: do not spray directly on plants - it can affect the soil pH.
2. Baking soda + powdered sugar (1:1)
Works: sugar attracts ants, and baking soda kills them (they can’t release gas).
Use: sprinkle the mixture around anthills or trails.
Advantage: safe for soil and plants.
3. Essential oils (peppermint, tea tree, lemongrass)
Works: strong scent confuses ants’ orientation.
Use: 10 drops in 2 dl of water, sprinkle around the edges of the field or path.
Note: acts as a repellent, not as a destroyer.
4. Boiling water with soap
Action: directly destroys the anthill.
Application: pour into the openings of the anthill early in the morning or evening.
Limitation: use only if the anthill is not too close to the roots of the wheat.
5. Chalk or lime
Action: ants do not like mineral barriers.
Application: sprinkle around the edges of the field or nest.
Advantage: additionally improves the soil structure.
What to avoid:
Strong insecticides: can harm beneficial insects and contaminate the soil.
Excessive use of vinegar: can change the pH of the soil, which affects the growth of wheat.
Tip: If the anthill is deep and large, it is best to combine mechanical destruction of the nest (e.g. with boiling water) and natural repellents to prevent re-inhabitation.
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bob, a 100 percent harvest would be a dream…we make seed with 50 kg, and when it goes well we can get nearly 400 kg on our poor and stony ground…but this is also blessed from our god father jesus, because 1. he has given to us the possibility to buy the ground to make the seed
2. the harvest is enough for our need…
till thirty years i make the seed by hand, throwing out of a sack the crops , what i have learned with a while to reach a good distribution of the crops on the field…when i do this work i am always remembered on the parable of the sewer, what jesus gave us…a lot of the word of god becomes seeded everywhere, but only a little quantity at least brings fruit…
now with the seed machine i expect not more harvest, but a quicker work for bringing the seed in the ground…actually i must make a relative coarse sed bed with the tool with the 9 hooks to get a bit deeper groves as with the normal harrow. in this way the crops are better covered with earth, but some step more for preparation of the ground…
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Boric acid kills ants, and you can mix it with sugar. I use it around the house, but for the field.
The organic method is nematodes and it doesn’t necessarily kill them all, and nematodes kill many other harmful grubs and ticks in the ground. They are found naturally in soil, but you can buy them, and you can replicate them at home, although a bit tedious. They kill by injecting a fatal bacteria, then enter the larvae and start reproducing, and will go through 3-4 reproduction cycles before emerging so 1000s actually come out. Elaine Ingham ‘soil food web’ uses a an aerobic compost tea, if you substitute forest soil in for the compost. you are extracting the nematodes as well, and keeping them alive. There are lots of species but only like 5 that are commercially reproduced.
This site actually lists what each attacks.
From Google AI.
Beneficial nematodes like
Steinernema feltiae and Steinernema carpocapsae can help control ants by killing larvae and disrupting colonies, though their effectiveness is debated, especially for certain species like fire ants. S. feltiae are effective against various ants and work by penetrating the nest, while S. carpocapsae are good at ambushing mobile insects like ants. Research suggests nematodes may cause some ant colonies to relocate rather than being eliminated, and they are generally not considered a guaranteed solution for large or fire ant infestations.
Types of beneficial nematodes for ants
- Steinernema feltiae(Sf): Often marketed specifically for ants, this species can penetrate ant nests and cause them to relocate. They are also effective against other pests like fungus gnats.
- Steinernema carpocapsae(Sc): This species uses a “sit-and-wait” strategy to ambush mobile insects, making it effective against worker and soldier ants.
- Heterorhabditis bacteriophora(Hb): This type is better suited for larger, stationary pests like grubs and queen ants, so it’s not the primary choice for general ant control.
How nematodes work
- They are microscopic, non-segmented roundworms found naturally in soil.
- After application, they locate the ants and enter the body through openings.
- Once inside, they release symbiotic bacteria that kill the ant, and the nematodes then feed and reproduce within the dead host.
Important considerations
- Effectiveness: While they can kill individual ants and cause colony relocation, nematodes may not be sufficient for eradicating established ant colonies, particularly large ones like fire ants.
- Application: They must be applied correctly to be effective.
- Safety: They are safe for use around humans, pets, and plants because they are naturally occurring and only target specific insect pests.
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Are you looking at a seeder like this?
we typically use grain drills which is the seeder plus disks for opening and closing the furrows.
If you are trying to make like the box style, you don’t want to use metal for moving the seeds, it tends to crack and damage the seed. They use a plastic or hard rubber now. And you can probably make a mold and use recycled plastic to make wheels to fit over the shaft and use like polyethylene or polypropylene which in the US is milk jugs and milk caps both will soften allowing for reformation.
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Tone. I really like the idea of regulating the water flow into the gasifier based on the residual water in the gas in real time. Will the horsehair withstand the gas and heat? I’m really looking forward to seeing the real-life tests. 
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a horsehair probe in the cooler could, perhaps, also regulate the extraction of excess steam in the hopper. with a venturi (like Joni Kolyvan) activated by a horsehair probe
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Bruce, that sounds interesting. I’m not sure I understand: does this device open and close a switch based on relative humidity? Will the sensor withstand hot, corrosive gases?
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I was thinking about putting the probe in my filter can to open the circuit going to my water mister pump if a rise in humidity is detected. Hopefully no hot corrosive gases in there. Just an idea.
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