Gilmore style?

Look guy’s,
Guess what this is going to be ?

started today from scratch ( or scrap?)

Inside pipe 5 inch

jacked for who knows the future

top and bottom exchangeable

shown the grate, (if i use it)

Can modify to downdraft easy, ( insert from refractory casting Throat and restriction , air trough the jacket nozzles)
but first Gilmore style, updraft trough the cover, top part filled with stainless wool

The stainless cans fit inside the pipe, will be brazed next,…

Bottom part will be with vertical nozzle, easy changeable,…

Tomorow will look for piping suitable for connect to the filter ( cooler and rock filter )

Keep you guys posted

and thanks for the advice


i added a little drawing, the bottom part ( red,) with the inlet nozzle ( blue ) i would like to make from ceramic or similar
The orange parts are stainless
The black walls are 4 mm strong steel

Still busy finding the tubing, not easy if working with an “poor mans” budget.
Materials should be off shelfs only…
affordable for the poor as well :slight_smile:
going to use a few hints from Garry for sure :wink:

Hey guy’s

Take a look, a new Gimore is born…

Happy papa and mama = Koen and Wife
Godfather = Garry i hope ( he should pick a name for the little one :slight_smile:

I will post a few pictures “how things are made” at an later stage

Now i am gonna feed the little baby

Materials used: all of shelf, most stainless (thin walls)

The plastic tank can be filled with media to act as an filter ( or cyclone )

Price around 60$ for parts…

used common syphons and slightly modified one to be mounted into the plastick bottle ( 5 Gallon )

Total height 3 ft
Weight about 30 pounds

Junior Kogi, better resolution

I was wrong about the height, over all height = 2ft
Filling from grate till filter 1ft
Internal diameter 5"

Excellent for demo/testing, power +/- 1Kw output

The making of the little one.

Little boy next to its bigger brother to be

Today’s first test run, baby did cough but stopped breathing , one part melted from being Low cost cast aluminum-plated plastic. Temp at the bottom of reactor went up, wall heated as well, plastic bottle to close :stuck_out_tongue:
Posting a picture of the battle field,…

But i had a first cough , be it not a cry yet

The bottom piece before and after melt down :stuck_out_tongue:

The preparation from the feedstock, filling the reactor

Cut into small pieces, 800Grs into the reactor

The victim, plastic bottle side wall melted, bottle function was acting as a cyclone-dust trap, bottom was filled with oil (1") inlet pipe goes vertically down untill almost at the bottom. ( 2" from oil surface )

i think the connection to the engine was ok, but what you guy’s think ? ( sizing 1")

Above the cover-filter from the reactor i installed a temperature probe, to monitor the temp ( went up to 100°C before i shuttled down )

Going shopping now for making modifications.

Thinking of using Ceramic nozzle from mig welder and a few new pipes to increase the distance between the 2 tanks

Keep you posted, suggestions welcome

Hi koen, glad to see you built one; a few suggestions to consider.
you don’t have much height above your intake so you probably should make your charcoal smaller to give the gas more resistance and to trap more heat. Sieve out the dust of course but also sieve to no more then 20mm in size. You want the full range of piece sizes to plug those gaps. I made that mistake at first and the result was poor gas and a hot output just like you described. Outlet temperature of 100c is too high and means you are pumping out too much co2 . Fluidyne published the 5 papers on charcoal gasification and for units with upturned nozzles he recommended min of 60 cm of charcoal above the nozzle. The small engine you chose might benefit from a check valve on the gas inlet tube. It has a push pull kind of suction and could mess up your flow. I use a brass flapper valve to avoid back flow not spring loaded just gravity closing. Just some ideas; good work, keep building…
David Baillie

Thanks David,

So i better start his bigger brother then tomorrow, quit easy to do so, top and bottom fitt coz is same size inner pipe.

any suggestions about the nozzle size ? i think i was a little at the big size.

For the parts and using them, amazing what can be done with of the shelf material…

Hi Koen nozzle size should be same or slightly larger then the opening of the carburator but there is no iron clad rule. At some point you should inject some exhaust into the air intake to prolong nozzle life and build so you can replace it when it wears…
David Baillie

Ok Thanks David,

I will take that into my design tomorrow and try to figure out wich parts are useful or available

Take care

I was working on the improvements for the little one on my front porch yesterday evening.
The cat saved me from this, sneaking up on my back, had to kill her, after the cat attacked her she was vicious.
I didn’t see or hear her coming, but my cat did…
Cobra 4ft long

Ok, a little drawing about the Kogi 1 and 2 Charcoal gasifiers ( Ko stands for Koen and Gi stands for Gilmore style )

Notice at the right side the tank ( 5 gallon, plastic ) this can be filled with grit or liquid to filter dust and catch the condensate.

Since i use a removable top and bottom lid, i will ad an supporting grate ( stainless mesh ) green dotted line at the bottom off the pipe.
This will allow me to remove the bottom lid, for ash cleaning and maintenance from the nozzle.

Its an idea, but i might work fine.

What about using 2 pressure cooking pans, each side 1 ? Remove their bottoms and connect them with stainless pipe-wall ?
Feedback welcome

The new Kogi Nr 2 is waiting for his food
Thats going to be tomorrow…

Now first cleaning the battle field

The new bottom nozzle in pieces and fitted

Of shelf material and a little jacket from stainless

Nozzle about (first picture, second from right)15 mm