Has anyone saved Mike LaRosa's plans?

I’ve been searching around on the forums and every link to his photo gallery is now defunct. I can’t access my premium content at the moment here on DOW so I don’t know if we have it saved here. Nowhere else on the internet seems to have saved his plans, just linked to now expired websites.

Yes, the yahoo groups thingy has been eliminated. Mike was having trouble with his online content dissapearing even when he was with us. In my experience, the free website providers will delete your page if you have not maintained it in a certain amount of time.
I dont think Mike was the type of guy that would have assembled proper plans though.
Somewhere, I had a rough sketch he had made for me. I think I posted it here on jessie norths thread about his restoration of mikes unit.

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Id be willing to send a few pics of the units if you tell me what you are looking for.

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I’m getting all the pics I needed on the restoration thread, thanks for the offer! I was just wondering with some brake rotors that I have if a 5" restriction would work for my 4.3l Chevy V6, maybe with small sized chunks.

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Hey Cody,
Also follow the work of Tom Collins.
He did build and run for a 4.3L V-6. Initially using a Mike LaRosa hearthing system.

Very interesting he said he later revised it for more WK-like features.
Another who later revised for WK big-tub/“firetube” and large “choke-hole” features was John Stout. Said it worked better for his big-old vehicles than his original Imbert principals one.
Regards
Steve Unruh

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I was thinking of doing some air preheating like someone had done to their Caddy build using stainless flex hose wrapped around the hearth. I really like the simplicity of the brake rotor hearth.
Now that I have Wayne’s book I can maybe bounce the two designs against each other and see what compliments it.

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Here you go Cody:

In his beginning post he acknowledges help from Mike LaRosa and Max Gasman.
Only 80 some posts. Best read and pictures seen completely.

1826 post covering six years. Can be intimidating.
On the bottom of his first post is an avatar line of all who have talked. You can narrow this down to just reading TomC’s own posts. 407, but it will go fast. Narrow down and read Mike LaRosa’s 13 posts. And maybe WayneK’s 27 responses.
Regards
Steve Unruh

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I had plans from one of those popular woodgas book written around the 70’s. Mike said that his basic internal dimensions were about the same. It was the gasifier that was built by a university to run a cab about the university. It had plans included. I no long have those books. Mother Earth first sold it and then Reed sold it with the plans.

I agree the simplicity is nice, but IIRC he had some issues with it generating tar and it took him quite a bit of tinkering to get it more tar free. He tore it apart and rebuilt it several times and I believe he tarred up his engine on more then one occasion until he got it dialed in. When he put his mind to something, he was a pretty darned determined person.

I personally, would get WK’s book, read it, so you have a -really- good idea what you are doing and what you are looking for. It could easily save you more time/frustration and money, then you spend on it even if you are building a LaRosa. There is no rule that you have to build a WK after reading his book. :stuck_out_tongue: At the very least, it will allow you to ask more specific questions, using the terminology used which typically results in clearer more concise answers to questions.

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Preheating your air with your exhaust off the engine is very important, but why.
It will make your gasifer more efficient because your air is being heated by another source not your gasifer heat. Also the heat that is coming off your gasifer can be used to continue heating up the preheated air more getting the air hotter by gases exiting the gasifer in the drop box. Finally use this hot air to help remove the heat coming off the hottest part of the gasifer and that is the firetube. The 3 stage air preheating is efficient when burning charcoal in a wet and very hot environment when using a wood gasifer. Removing this moisture/tars is very important out by the hopper too. You can burn up some of the tars through the firetube and reduction zone, but it is very difficult to burn up all of them. The tars like to hang around in the hopper I have noticed. It is different when using a charcoal only gasifer the tars have been already removed and the moisture. You have to add moisture back in to control the hot burn. This will make Hydrogen fuel that is a big plus.
Bob

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This project will have to be after i finish the downdraft Charcoal for the Mazda. But these rotors/drums were too good to not pass up. Bore measures about 5.12 inches and distance from bore to the disc rotor is 5.37 inches. They were going to the scrap pile at work!

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My main goal will be to run the Sierra on wood just for the ease of not having to make runs and runs of charcoal.
It took about 4 runs in my TLUD to fill up a 55 gallon drum with finished coal ready to crush.

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