If that does turn out to be the case, I would try building new edges on the TB butterflies with epoxy, then reassemble, let the butterflies close , should form a perfect seal once the epoxy hardens. If too messy or difficult epoxy could be applied to the butterfly edges with a toothpick or other tool. Likely a release agent like oil or silicone spray will be required on the throttle body.
Once hardened, disassemble, and smooth flat surfaces.
I would try something like Permatex steel weld, resists up to 150C.
I have had a few butterfly shafts seize up in the body , only way I could get them unstuck was to strip the butterfly off the stem and drill under the stem a small enough hole to tap it out , my gas is nearly always clean ,so can only thinks its corrosion between the 2 different metals causing my problem .
Yes, it has an adjustable one. I tightened it as much as possible when I started running on wood. The remaining small gap is most likely plugged with soot by now.
Ha, seems like a combination + a few more reasons. One of them being a flimsy dash board for my idle string nob
Anyway, I did some additional cleaning and exercised the butterflies a bit more. Also I mounted a sturdier return spring.
I can keep the woodgas idle down around 800 rpm again. On gasoline I have to turn up the idle higher not to stall. I’ve always had ruff gasoline idle.
However the smallest brass butterfly does seem to be affected by corrosion on the leading edge.
That’s what bothering me. I can’t remember seeing it before. The only photo of the tb is back in post 316 almost a year ago (right butterfly on that one, since the new new photo is upside down again ???) but it doesn’t show much. You might be right on the galvanic process. It’s a very uneven edge. Seals a bit better when things carbon up
I was jumping up and down on the last year/yesterday pics and l have to say l vote for the thing to be new.
Now, my thods are since a small peace broke, is it possible for a biger peace to broke and damage the engine?
Hope not, we like to see that rabbit running
1050kg (incl 70kg driver) + 570kg max load. 1.8L, 95hp.
Top speed right now is 90-100km/h on flat ground on a good day. I don’t think I can expect much more than 100-110km/h with any gasifier. I guess almost twice the power is needed to increase the speed from 90 to 110 with this light vehicle.
I have to admit I’m a bit curious of what you’re calculating
Oh, nothing special. Weigh/hp ratio, weight/ccm ratio, top speed/weight/power ratio… for some of the cars/trucks from this site, to compare with myne and perhaps a future build. Just want to see if there can be a reasonable equation for when someone is purchaseing a WG candidate
Remember past 90km/h air resistance plays a BIG factor on the energy needed to drive faster.
Mr Wayne says by sacrificing hopper/cooler height was when he started to fly-faster.
And he selects the 2wd Dakota pickup version with the less frontal area as a primary factor for his speed-machine.
Regards
tree-farmer Steve unruh
It seems the -91 VW Rabbit has about the same acceleration on wood as a WW2 28hp VW Beetle on gasoline
0-80 km/h in about 35s (12-47s in the video) as far as I can tell.
Around 1300kg. But l have higher compression and 16v. And more aerodynamic shape.
You think thats it?
Ha, based on what you told me before l wuld say timeing advance. You did say it makes litle difference at max speed, but as if the handbrake is on on acceleration.
I am still amazed. Its a rocket comoared to my slug
