I see there is much to learn here. Thank you for your help guys, apreciate it!
Al, yes bearings on both sides. Do the blocks cause wear on the blade?
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No, they donât seem to. they are adjusted with a sheet of paper clearance.
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Well makes sence. Not realy much stress on them l guess.
I justrealised l made a mistake. My bearings are not adjustible for blade leveling. Is that onna be a problem? I can still change thatâŠ
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Generally the blade leveling is done through adjustments of the bed relative to the cutting head, and generally the log bed supports are individually levelable. As the blade bites into the log, it could slightly change the level of the cut. So the bed should be adjustable to the cutting head, at least in my opinion, and the cutting head made as rigid as possible. With a 2 track design that shouldnât be a big issue, but I still wouldnât be surprised if there is need for adjustable bed.
Edit.
With a 2 track design, making one side adjustable will have the same effect. Adjustable bed sections can get distorted by dropping or moving heavy logs on them.
Whichever way, adjustment is going to be the only way to dial the sawmill in for perfect cuts.
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On mine, the saw head is suspended on cables attached to eye bolts that adjust the saw head parallel with the track. I have sawed 1/8ââ 8 feet long just to see if it would do it, not bad for a cheap mill. 
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When Mr Wayne demonstrated us his mill he sayd people asked him how thin can he saw a plank. He sayd he likes to reply âmuch to thin for you to use itâ and it was true.
Here she goes! Just a test run, no sawing. It seems to do just fine. I did however notice both wheels wobled some. Possibly weld distortion on the axis. Took me about half a hour, a 10 pound hammer and some Serbian language but l got them straight prety good. Now it runs even smoother, much less vibration too.
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On a mill with tires, once you get everything working, find your sweet spot for blade tension you can release, and add tension with air pressure to get it the same every time, and leave the mechanical tensioner set and not move it. The first mill I built had tires, and I set blade tension with air pressure. It looks good. Are you going to move the carriage, or the log?
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Good idea!
I noticed tightly tihtened blade tends to squeeze the tires together, making the blade want to slip off. It seems there will be alot of tryal and error to get this thing runing nice
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Yes, they will stay on when loose, thatâs where your tracking adjustment on the idler shaft comes into play when tight. Donât adjust when running, only when turning by hand, the blade will fly(very dangerous).
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Good point. GuardingâŠ
A bandsaw blade breaking at speed is extremely dangerous. It would easily go right through a person. Even if guarded, a broken blade is apt to come flying out the sawdust chute, so though it risks buildup in freezing weather, that chute should be guarded too. And never let anyone catch sawdust coming out the chuteâŠ
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Great point if you look at the photos of my mill you will see there is a ton of guarding I never really gave it any thought it is just how they are built.
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How did you adjust the height of your sawmill?
I have been thinking about making a band sawmill because my sawmill produces so much shavings.
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I dont yet have a mechanism for that. It will likely be just a winch style with a cable.
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Any idea where to sorce log cart wheels?
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Something like this?
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Yes something like that, buta bit cheaper l hope 
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I like the ones with houseing but 50$??? No way. The rollers will cost more thain thd whole mill its self!
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I found the perfect thing.
But the price!! 55âŹ!! Thats insane for a simple 2" bearing with a groove.
Plan B. I will put on normal bearings and 2 on each side of the track to prevent the cart derailing.
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One angle iron and one flat?
Angle with point up keeps track. Need two bearings. Flat just one
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