I culd just buy the platform but it is rated at 45kg max weight, my system weighs about 65kg so the bumps wuld realy be a problem. This one l tested jumping on it and it seems to hold well. Snow will be a problem thugh⌠front whhel driveâŚ
Ill print some stickers with instructions and logos to give the homemade platform some factory stile. But shhh
Hi Krisijan , looks fantastic and nice and clean too , I understand about the stealthiness of the build , but wouldnât a jockey wheel on or under the back help support it as your a little over the rated weight would help stop some of the flexing on those bumps .
Don, I think the box is there so the trunk lid will clear the box. I believe in my state he would have to have a tail light mounted on the box or it would be considered sticking out 3 ft. past the back of the car. The tail light< i think, is then the measure of the back of the car.TomC
A wheel is to eyecatching, and the thing is the Easybase costs 250⏠($280?) And lf l have to change it to much (wich wuld allso be ilegal) its alot cheaper to build from scrtch. My setup cost me 15⏠to make
Allso the Easybase is mountedvonly in one place, the towbar. I dont thrust that so much. My is fixed on 3 spots, much more stable
The cooler is about 1,5m2 and the platform is sllso a cooler, 0.6m2. The heat exchanger us about 1m2 and the 3" ss flex tube (the other question) is about 1m2. But like you have sayd, will see that soon.
Just came back from about 20km trip on wood, driveing my brother home. The sistem is not a 100% complete but l was so anticipated l just had to give it a try.
The first absorvations are:
-the cone in the hopper needs to be modified. Some bridgeing was happening.
-the cooler seems to keep up with the temps
-the cyclone collected about 2 tablespoons of dust.
-the cooler collected quite some water (green wood choped 4 days ago)
-The fuelsize might be a bit smaller. The char on the grate is a bit to big for my taste but time will tell.
-the power was wery aceptible, althugh hard to say for now due to fuel bridgeing (eaven dyed a couple of times when runing out of wood)
-Tasted the condensate-tasteless. No sour of tarry flavour, so the dimensions seem to be good.
-the fuel consumption shocked me a bit⌠was sure to find the small hopper empty back home ( l drove mostli ups and downs in low gears) but burned just about 2-3kg.
Arvid not sure yet for the puffs, but that flex tube seems to breath a lot with the vacuum changes. Not something l like to see. Hope it will work wellâŚ
Congratulations!
I guess you are not very keen on going to work tomorrow
On top of the grate or falling through?
If on top it might have to do with wet wood.
Consumption seems normal. I burn about 6 kg for every 40-50 km.
Please keep us updated.
I wuld rather not talk about that⌠Cant remember when l hated the alarm clock more thain this morning
Thre was wery litle char sliping trugh the grate, wich l like to see. Just a bit of ash. Will try a dryer fuel today. And perhaps smaller.
I just packed hey in for a test, but am planing to install a sack filter like on my seat. Can be made a lot smaller thain a heyfilter.
The timeing advance is a topic l wuld like to touch. It has a vacuum sensor but from there everything is electronic. The distributor cant be rotated. Is there anything at all l culd do? I was thinking to fix the vacuum sensor in a way it always senses vacuum and advances the spark. Any thods?
Will take photos when l come home.
It looks more like a vacuum swich rather thain a membrane. It is all electronic.
What did you mean with codes?
It is a 2006 Chevrolet Lacetti hatchback. They are quite rare hereâŚl think l have only seen one other once
Obd-computer should have picked up a few strange signals from different sensors during your woodgas trip and make your engine check/service light turn on. Most cars this new even text codes. You should have seen âantipollution faultâ or simular. Codes have to be erased when going for inspection.
I took a closer look at your âkind of distributorâ at post 104. It seems you have a âcoil packâ. It doesnât look like itâs connected to the cam shaft at all. Most likely you wonât be able to advance your timing further than what the computer might do for you unless you change map (software). I donât know if the vacuum membrane on your intake is timing related. If it is, that might be able to make the computer make a small advance in the way you suggested.
How do you shut gasoline off? Electric or valve?
Your vacuum valving âswitchâ could be an engine Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor; Barometric Pressure Sensor; or even an Evaporation Emissions switching solenoid valve to allow purging of collected vapors into the intake stream.
Without the means to âfoolâ the crankshaft timing input into the computer you then can sensor input it into one of the maximum timing allowed modes of operation.
These would be:
light throttle position sensor/high manifold vacuum of a cruse mode
detected high altitude operation
de-acceleration/coasting
fuel octane range self-adjustment
Yeah. All transitional modeâs. With the computer expecting to see mode operation changes sooner or later.
Depends. Depends on the programming.
You must spoof both the TPS and the MAP inputs in conjunction.
Or, Baro and the O2 sensors inputs in conjunction.
Or, suppress Knock sensor input.
Disconnect, eliminate any one and the continuous self-testing âOBDâ will put it into no-run, or limited operation limp-in mode!
Check for a camshaft sensor too. WITH; makes it hard to just spoof with a crankshaft sensor re-locate. Most systems programmed to look for crank/cam synchronization.
