Leitinger wood gasifier

Hi Steve,
Thank you for that detailed information. I am afraid this is all out of my expertees. Give me a screwdriver and a hammer and lll make something out of it but when it comes to complex electronics l just scrach mi head…

Did a nother drive test yesterday. This time withh the alu box on top of the system. Some problems showed up.
The cooler is to close from the gasifier base. It radiates heat to the aluminium cooling plates makeing them unefficiant. Have to insulate them somehow from each other.
Hot air accumulates in the alubox, heating the gas filter. Gas is to hot. Need to find a way to make air circulaie in the alubox to cool the assembly more. Maybee put a fan in it.
The 3 secondairy nozzles seem to be to big. to much air on top of the restriction so l get a cavity in the charbed, makeing the gas lean. When l poke in a bit for the charbed to ged compact the performance is near gasoline power, but when the char gets consumed l can barely drive. So l will try smaller nozzles.
Still lots of work

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Hi, Kristijan!
31.8.2016

Lift the secondary nozzles half way up to the primary nozzles.

Have their tips position following the avalanche 60 degree cone; that means their tip-circle will be less than the tip-circle of the primary nozzles.

In fact, half the difference between the primary nozzle tip-circle diameter and the restriction diameter.

Adjust their mutual “compass” blow angles to 120 degrees.
But not strictly toward the center; instead aiming 15 degrees off the center-line, all in one rotation direction.

The three secondary tips’ (together) opening area estimated to 1/3 of all nozzle openings’ area together.

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Hi Max,
Good tips. I am now at about 20% nozzle area on bottom nozzles. If l put them higher l culd allso go bigger.

In this case l have to make the nozzle holders from scratch. Do you sugest i make more smaller nozzles or stick with 3?

Kristijan!
31.8.2016

Stick with 3.

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What about nozzle angle. Horisontaly like now or faceing fown a few degrees?

Hi, Kristijan!
31.8.2016

So far horizontal.

Sloping blow beams can be arraged by boring the tips at an angle in horizontal nozzles.
That has the advantage that turning the nozzle gives varying horizontal directions aswell.

Sloping blow nozzles have been used commercially in Finland since 1938.

So Stephen Abadessa is no pioneer…

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l have opened the entire gasifier today to put the hearth out for modifications. A big dissapointment! After only about 2 hours of running the preheat ss flex hose started to leak. Burnmarks allover the seams and mostly on the connections. This is suposed to be the high quality industrial stuff, rated for 3 bar and 800c, positive or negative pressure… Luckly l didnt pay for all of it becouse the dealer had problems with the compuler when l bought the second one for gas outlet, and l am allso not goeing to. The damn thing cost me allmost as much as the fest of the whole asembly!

A bit of a setback, but l am glad it happend now.

Hi, Kristijan!
31.8.2016
How did the rest turn out?

Looks like a hoax quality dealer!
I hope you can get real stuff, guaranteed to make the nesessary bending and keeping tight aswell!
Test bending before buying!

Smaller diameter (of same type) bends with smaller circle.

I’m sorry to hear about your setback. I hope you get it sorted out.
Take the hose back to the dealer and question the rating.

Kristijan, I would try to all my money back if it didn’t hold up to your satisfaction, of the product. Or at least have them give you more, and use it for something else. That’s a shame that it didn’t work out. You could make it more like the WK design but make it square on the outside. Just have to find the right size tanks and cut them to fit.
Bob

He is the only dealer in the country that sells them. He did bend snd strech it and it looked wery sturdy but when it came to heat…
He did however have a nother type, a 1/2" ss flex hose, double walled and double seamed. That looked like the right stuff! But the price didnt. It wuld cost me about 200€. At least!
I decided to change the design to a more foolproof sort. The air preheat will now be from the outside of the gasifier wall, sort of like JOs gasifier. It allso gives me an advantige of the gasifier emiting less heat in the alubox. I was now allso able to insulate the firetube more and gained more space for ash/char plus makeing more of a dropbox effect, but loose the air inlet non return hatch.

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Has anyone ever tryed hot gas filtration? I know Matt uses lava rocks for the woodgas cooking unite but a gas burner isnt as picky as an engine.

I was thinking ro filter my gas hot trugh a unburnable material like glass wool or something, just to get rid of the hard particles. Then only water will collect in the coolers.

Any thods?

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Ron Lemler uses that on his International tractor. Hot gas goes from his gasifier directly to his filter and then to the cooler. He uses fiberglass insulation for filter media.

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Don, this is exactly what l was looking for! Max wuld say “there is nothinng new under the sun” and l am happy that statement is true here. Nlooks like just what l need!

Hi Kristijan!
1.9.2016

Hot filters are preferably preceeded by a cyclone; it takes away ~90 % of the soot load before reaching the filter.

The cyclone should be placed high enough to have easy access to the bottom part for quick (klick, klick, klick excentric locks) removal of the bottom-pot, in which the soot is carried away for firesafe disposal.

The upper part can be mantled and used for preheating primary air.
Or, for reheating after cooling & condensing, for a paperfilter.

The filter fabric should be thin mineral cloth, not glasfibre!

Mineral cloths withstand higher temperatures and are not brittle.

It should be absolute tight against sunlight!

The needed surface:

l X n X 0,5—1,0 m2

liter(s) displacement X thousands of RPM X 0,5—1,0 m2

Bargaining does not pay off!

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Good Morning KristijanK
I’d like to address just “how” simply to understand; and then “spoof” modern engine control electronics the “cave-man” way.
First just view these as always having Inputs to achieve Desired outputs.
This was taught to me back in 1976-80 by Adrian Fernadez an American-Basque fellow who won the California State High School Technical Challenge.
He showed me to stop trying to circuit by curcut anylize vehicle electronic voltage regulators but just check for the proper Inputs to achieve the desired Output. HAS the right Inputs (including the grounding circuit); and still not the proper Output then it was BAD. Replace. Or . . . was the wrong regulator for the application. Replace: and have had just one incomplete Input; and Still have a no-go. NOT fixed by just parts-replacing.
Applied to engine fuel mixture modes needed then you have to study up on the different modes of operation found to be needed from Mr Lenoir in 1869 to the 1950’s.
I learned this in Holley, Motocraft, and Weber carburetor classes and tech books 1978-1980.
Then Robert Bocsh fuel injection tech books said the same operation modes needed satisfied. Now done with fuel injection. First mechanical. Then electronic.
Get an old R. Bosch F.I. tech training manual. High school reading level.

I’ve spoofed the MAP and/or Baro sensors with a plastic hand vacuum pump thru fish tank air hosing and metering valves. Learned that on first Motocraft feed-back carburetors to en-lean on-demand.

The early O2 sensors were easy to spoof. Human hand to a battery into the input line would do it for computer functional diagnosing. So . . . 1.5 volt battery through a variable resistor was an easy running cut-in en-leanment trick.
Early knock sensors was just unscrew from the detection position. Regound somewhere else.
TPS . . . set up your own secondary with knob inside the vehicle on a dpdt switched circut and flip-switch enrich/enlean tune as you drive.

Yes. Yes. Later sensors on all of these often went to computer frequency input to the sensors types with the sensor modifying back the frequency signal. Then . . . signal generator “testers” became available.
My old-now Snap-On knob adjustable ignition timing light has been pressed to do duty to timing signal tune single cylinder engine systems.

The emissions compliant nazi’s knew spoofing was being done. Why the push for more depth in computer programming to be able to actively force continuous sensor relevancy active testing.
Examples: computor Force the O2 sensors FI pushed out of range to test for capabilities. Force a must knock condition to check Knock sensor relevancy.
In the USofA these all started coming in new systems around 2003.
These the system either have to use as-is. Or for on-road-use illegally reprogram.

Remember. Inputs understandings and manipulations to get the desired outputs is a basic. This is no different than we must learn to do to socially get along in all situations from age 2 and on.
The brute force cave-man died early of food poisonings, or hunting accidents. The social invested understanding cave-man was nursed when sick or injured. Appreciated and revered (fed and warmed) when old and weak.

Regards
Steve Unruh

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??? Wow!!! TomC

Max
The ciclone is allready on the sistem and it works well.
The mineral cloth is however a problem… l found no dealer to provide me of them. So l will have to improvise. The best l think of is mineral insulation for the floor. It comes in 3cm thick plates.
What do you mean with bargaing? if you are reffering to surface area, l will find a way.

Steve, l was reading your post for a while. Still dont understand all but a few more rereads and the lightbulb might start to glow :blush:
So if l understand this right, if l disconect the knock sensor, the computer will continue to advance the timing. or will it do that anyway?

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Tom, that’s so funny :joy: :joy: :joy:

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Kristijan and Don,
Freshly edited just for you…

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