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Hi Marcus, Excellent tuteral on welding procedures, I been welding since high school, and that is a spot on lesson for thin metal welding/ Nice job, looking good, I got my burn tube outer and hopper stting in my truck, I am building a heat exchanger next few days.i bet you would make a great welding and machanic Teacher, If you could get the credenciels.
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Took my a lot of years of burning through thin sheet metal to learn that trick. I have always had a strong distaste for this super thin stuff but add in not having to stop at a gas station? Ok itās not so bad now 
I was told many times throughout high school that I should be a teacher by my English, history, auto shop, metal shop and woodshop teachers. Itās strange to me really, because I donāt like public speaking haha. But talking to camera im starting to get used to a little more, think I have a 170 sum videos on my channel now. Still sounds dry though, I donāt have a lot of drama in my videos but it might appear boring to some people. Oh by the way if your wonder why my left eye looks puffy in this video itās because safety glasses donāt always work. I wear them all the time working on anything but you still get crap in yours eyes grinding stuff all day
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Thanks for the lesson Marcus, will try next time I weld such thin material.
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Thanks Marcus. I make a lot of those little pits you call inclusions too. I thought I just didnāt know what I was doing. But I guess thatās just stuff you deal with. So I just have to do it.
Rindert
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That first run full of little incusions , I usually lay my first bead thinner and less uniform than that first weld you show on camera. Just enough metal too burn one over the top, just like you showed except a little smaller first weld, of coarse depending on the gap too be filled. I might allso lay a cold small first weld on thin metal, then turn heat up enough too burn in a good strong weld. Nice welding tips for the welding learning /welders. That tip reminded me of my metal shop teacher, he actually taught us some real welding tecniche.Gess i had a good old school teacher, now days probley teaching, programing computor too do the welding.That would be boring for us DIY welders.Some times i just lay about 2 or 3" small bead while i am moveing and come back and put thicker weld over the top without stoping. Though laying a longer small bead before welding over the top sometimes work better.
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Were putting a lot of hours in these gasifier trucks/ my next gasifier truck will likely be 18 or 20 gauge SS if i like the way my WK modified heat exchanger 44" long.works out.If not SS i will make my next HOPPER out of stretched out water heater metal. I am running out of metal TOO building my third gasifier.Its allmost time too go too salvage yard too buy used steel sheet water heaters or ss sheet, last sheet i bought was around 100 bucks 4 by 8 foot peice.OR finish my dakota and go out cubing junk or garbage days.
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Materials are hard to find around me right now, not finding what I need for the cooling rails is holding me back from a big chunk of progress. Iām keeping busy with the little details though, got a big check list of things still to go
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Good job Marcus, that drop box inter air preheater is nice. Thanks for showing us how in detail.
Bob
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Thanks for the video Marcus .
I have been using the white calking ( cheap bath tub type ) on the bottom seal of the hopper and seems to hold up well . I have it on both my trucks now 
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Good to know cause the red stuff is getting expensive!
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Do you make the seal and let it dry, or use it to glue it together?
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Marcus, as I said, precise construction and excellent welds, even on film production I can see the changes, ā¦ thanks for the presentation.
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Good morning Cody .
I put a liberal bead in the seal area and put the hopper in place then tighten just a little . Next day tighten it down .
If there are any small leaks in the hopper area they will seal themselves in a few miles .
As Marcus said , the red stuff is expensive .
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You still use the red RTV for the bottom barrel seal right?
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Yes Cody.
Red high temp on the bottom drum seal
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Marcus, when you welded the fins in ur heat exchanger, were they welded in as multiple rows with the centers laying on top of eachother then space up 3/4-1" and start another row (overlaping the spaces left buy previous row) or more of a continuous spirle?
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A mixture of both, continuous by the centers over lapping each other and about 3/4-1" in between each row. Lots of open space around the edges, with most the middle area covered up as the fins overlapped
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