Ok, that was sad for me.
I probably shouldn’t post my stuff either, but I thought there might be someone else besides me who doesn’t have the opportunity or knowledge to do advanced things.
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Please keep posting.
Unfortunately, I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I think your joint should work.
I’m learning just like you, and I’m convinced that even with basic knowledge, we should be able to manage with some help (of course).
So let’s support each other and try to move forward.
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I think there are many people that sees our posts and learns without ever posting once and it is “spreading the word” showing that it can be done by everyday people if you are determined enough. Everybody that made a working gasifier for an ic engine has a gold star in my book and I think in others books in here too and you made three now that I know of.
As for the dow people here, we all like to see what others are up to and there are always new things to learn and see.
Me and JO were talking during our nightshift about this and that and your gasifier came up. You whipped out a fully functioning gasifier in a pretty short time with a nice positive pressure flare test. We all like to see that 
Plus, I hope that this forum stays up and running for a very long time. It is a very good place to learn, build and be shown that gasifiers can be tailored to your own needs. A book with the chemistry and formulas don’t show that part and it is necessary to see to grasp so it is vital that we post and show for others to learn by seeing and all that are here are interested.
In a way this is also a heritage for the future.
Well this got to be a long rant so I am sorry about that but in short, please don’t stop posting, we want to see what you are up to.
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Yes, it was sad that I couldn’t see your creation, but since you have it there, there must be something secret about it.
I have a hard time remembering what is secret and what I can help with, so that’s why I don’t want to be premium.
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My gasifier evolved to be a scaled down WK instead of an imbert-ish based one, that is why I moved the build thread to the premium side. It is understandable but unfortunate to not be able to show everybody though.
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JanA. yes, please of keep posting up your woodgasing activities.
On this topic you picture up well how you have rust you must deal with. And what you’ve done.
On others of your topics you showed accumulated intake soot deposits.
Considered normal for WK builders/users. You however decided to go like other European fellows have with a hot fine screened pleated filter. A choice.
And on at least two of your topics you picture up show your in-use upper hopper conditions.
Black gooey and dripping is normal for a raw wood gasifer.
But I’ve tried to help neat-freaks with woodgasifiaction and they could never accept, black and gooey in the upper end as normal. Actually desirable; showing heat refining out of for removal of the long chain creosotes. The surface build ups then actually acting as a steel metal preserver from the acid conditions.
Ha! neat-freaks I’ve known could never accept the “baby diapers” mess of a working woodgasifer. Expecting the clean, clean conditions of using refined, filtered and dewatered natural gas or liquid petroleum gas. I’ve wondered?? Do they have children? Or just have the woman handle that end of keeping a baby clean and smelling nice?
And your systems show it does not have to be all pretty shiny SS to have a useable working gasifier.
JohanM. here is your guideline on what you can show and not show:
https://forum.driveonwood.com/t/waynes-international-444-farm-tractor-project
This is an open side many pictures topic.
Embedded in one of the last post WayneK. put up a link to his Premium side internal building up of his downsized unit.
So your example of what you can show. And are asked, not to show.
JanA. as AdminChris recently posted up the WK is a large internal volume charcoal bed system operating at slow internal velocities. ( And with its air as extremely pre-heated)
The “Imberts” he said are relatively small internal volume units. With a much smaller charcoal bed. They operate at much higher internal air and gasses velocities. (The charcoal bed MUST renew itself continuously with no interruptions. The WK with a larger charcoal reserve you have time. Its developmental details are the extreme air pre-heating and systems made to preserve the metals from the metal contact killing heats.)
Regards
Steve Unruh
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Black paint hides and blends in well with black tar on the out side of a gasifier too. That’s how I like it.
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Started a bit with the radiator, wondering if there will be any cooling behind the cab, thought about putting on a wing like that that brings the air down, they usually have it on the tailgate.
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Has anyone ever put fins on cooling pipes for extra cooling like we do on hopper condensate pipes?
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Yes, it’s a good idea, but a lot of work, and it’s a little easier to keep these pipes clean, so that dust and other things that insulate don’t collect.
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Jan, don’t forget about cleaning ports 
I use short pieces of 30 mm OD pipes. They cap conveniently with silicone wine bottle caps.
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I was thinking of putting a joint on the elbow into the radiator, and I should be able to access it to flush it out if necessary, but usually nothing happens in the radiators if the filter is working, but otherwise I should be able to drill holes in the standing pipe and insert those plugs.
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Yes, of course. I keep forgetting you filter before cooling 
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What do you think, should I try to get the pipe from the filter to the radiator down or leave it as is?
It will be a bit strange with the bend at the radiator if I cut it more, and I want the joint there to do cleaning if necessary.
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If your wife is going to drive this, I suspect you need to drop the pipe down for better aerodynamics. I suppose you could put a teardrop shape on the pipe for more aerodynamics as well.
Otherwise, I don’t think you can get it below the cab height without knocking several inches off the top of the barrel without making it so the air comes out the side of the barrel. (which you aren’t going to do.)
At best you might be able to get 4" from just shortening the pipe.
The only real concern I would have is Branches catching on the pipe and yanking it off.
You could also add fins on it, since it would help cooling with all the airflow.
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Leave as is JanA.
If you tape lengths of yarn all over the gasifer, cooling rack and bed edges you will see at any speed the low pressure created behind the cab and now the gasifer pulls the air flow forwards.
You asked about a flow shaping wing at the rear cab edge.
Yes. I think it will be beneficial.
But not to try and force the air flow down; that will always be wanting to flow up.
But a raised gapped wing to actually increase the rear of cab flow upwards and then underside of wing smooth it towards a backwards flow.
This will increase the air flow past your tight in cooling rack.
Always verify this with the yarn strings. You following beside in another vehicle looking.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Did your other S-10 have automatic transmission too?
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Yes, they are quite similar, don’t know if there is a manual transmission on the V6 orna?
The difference between these is 1.5 cab and tbi on this one.
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Hmm, now when I was picking up firewood I met a car that came in the middle of the road, had to brake hard, after this there was a pop under the hood and the cover for the carburetor had gone up, it is spring-loaded on one side so it didn’t break.
I haven’t experienced this before, what is causing the pop, I think JO had this problem before?
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