I was thinking of putting a joint on the elbow into the radiator, and I should be able to access it to flush it out if necessary, but usually nothing happens in the radiators if the filter is working, but otherwise I should be able to drill holes in the standing pipe and insert those plugs.
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Yes, of course. I keep forgetting you filter before cooling 
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What do you think, should I try to get the pipe from the filter to the radiator down or leave it as is?
It will be a bit strange with the bend at the radiator if I cut it more, and I want the joint there to do cleaning if necessary.
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If your wife is going to drive this, I suspect you need to drop the pipe down for better aerodynamics. I suppose you could put a teardrop shape on the pipe for more aerodynamics as well.
Otherwise, I don’t think you can get it below the cab height without knocking several inches off the top of the barrel without making it so the air comes out the side of the barrel. (which you aren’t going to do.)
At best you might be able to get 4" from just shortening the pipe.
The only real concern I would have is Branches catching on the pipe and yanking it off.
You could also add fins on it, since it would help cooling with all the airflow.
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Leave as is JanA.
If you tape lengths of yarn all over the gasifer, cooling rack and bed edges you will see at any speed the low pressure created behind the cab and now the gasifer pulls the air flow forwards.
You asked about a flow shaping wing at the rear cab edge.
Yes. I think it will be beneficial.
But not to try and force the air flow down; that will always be wanting to flow up.
But a raised gapped wing to actually increase the rear of cab flow upwards and then underside of wing smooth it towards a backwards flow.
This will increase the air flow past your tight in cooling rack.
Always verify this with the yarn strings. You following beside in another vehicle looking.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Did your other S-10 have automatic transmission too?
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Yes, they are quite similar, don’t know if there is a manual transmission on the V6 orna?
The difference between these is 1.5 cab and tbi on this one.
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Hmm, now when I was picking up firewood I met a car that came in the middle of the road, had to brake hard, after this there was a pop under the hood and the cover for the carburetor had gone up, it is spring-loaded on one side so it didn’t break.
I haven’t experienced this before, what is causing the pop, I think JO had this problem before?
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Congratulations, Jan! Watching your video I can feel the thrill 
Very funny you made a “video” yesterday and ended up with two photos. Been there, done that
About the intake puffs - with the Volvo I still suffer from them from time to time. I’ve never ever had a puff in the Mazda truck’s intake.
I think ignition timing is part of the problem. It seems even low rpm, sudden open throttle, bad gas and a lean mix are contributing factors. Also, if I resently had an intake event - some soot resently let go, making a valve ticking - puffs are more likely to happen. Probably because an intake valve momentarely doesn’t seal probaly.
I can’t prove any of it - just a hunch.
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ok, yes it has low idle on this one, and I saw that someone had forgotten to install the hose from the crankcase to the intake, it’s possible that that has an effect.
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Is that speedometer measuring kilometers or miles per hour. Seems fast. I kept trying to find the brake petal on my recliner while I watched it.
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When I’ve driven for a while and stopped, and try to start the car on gas and change the air, it seems like nothing changes and all of a sudden the mixture becomes too rich, and it backfires.
When I went home I drove a little faster, and when I was going up the hill the car ran very badly, almost didn’t get home.
Both filter and radiator hot.
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Jan, on the Volvo I have no woodgas shut-off valve and notice the same cranking up shortly after shutdown. I believe the small positive pressure after shutdown fills tubing and breather with woodgas. The mix during the first seconds of cranking will be very rich even with a fully open air valve.
Don’t know about he sudden low power. Could be a number of things. Maybe constipation. Or, could be the other way around - some bridging, warm moist gas due to the smaller cooler area or a combination.
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ok, I tested it again this afternoon, worked for about 10km then stopped working.
I’ll take it out tomorrow if I have time, I’m not getting any water from the hopper, so I’m wondering if it’s the water that’s turning off the unit.
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Jan, I would like to help you with some “smart” advice, but I don’t have any. JO, he said it well, …
I’ll think out loud, let’s say you have a hot zone full of charcoal, which is activated when the engine starts sucking gas, and fresh air supplies oxygen and burns the charcoal, the gas flow is downwards and a little heat radiates upwards and so not enough charcoal is produced. After a while of such operation, the charcoal is used up, and the wood creates a bridge.
Try to “feel” with a stick what the condition is below, when I check it with my gasifier, I can feel a softer area below, …
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Jan, I have had what you are talking about happen when driving on wood except it is my dropbox and cooling rails get hot. I filter after my gases are cooled down. Everthing will be running really great, then a loss of power. I will see my hopper temperature is normal temperature, but I will notice my grate temperature is a little higher then it was, the drop box too. I will pull over and check my wood in the hopper, looks good. I poke the wood and then it happens, it claps, the old bridging of the wood got me again. Some times by the time I get pulled over it will claps. Not good wood gases being produced now, so when this happens I will have already switched over to gasoline when I am going to check my hopper to cool things down a little. But I leave my woodgas valves open so the new wood in the fire tube that fell will cook down to charcoal. I will drive this way for a few miles and then try to switch back to driving on wood. If I am close to home I will just driving on gasoline all the way back home. I am not a purist when it comes to DOW.
I have been thinking of moving my grate shaker up to my hopper barrel to give it some good good vibration once in a while when driving. I no longer need to use my grate shaker anymore, now that I have my T handle grate shaker or I just poke the charbed real good before I light it up if it needs it with my poke rod.
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I checked the first time it happened, saw no signs of hanging, saw nothing now when I emptied it either.
But I think there was a lot of fine carbon above the grate, wondering if it was tight.
Could have to do with me running all the water through the hearth, the outlet from the hopper was set too high up from the bottom.
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This car is very, very sensitive to air, could it be that the mixture is too poor between gas and air, and that is the cause of the puffs?
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