I was thinking of putting a joint on the elbow into the radiator, and I should be able to access it to flush it out if necessary, but usually nothing happens in the radiators if the filter is working, but otherwise I should be able to drill holes in the standing pipe and insert those plugs.
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Yes, of course. I keep forgetting you filter before cooling 
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What do you think, should I try to get the pipe from the filter to the radiator down or leave it as is?
It will be a bit strange with the bend at the radiator if I cut it more, and I want the joint there to do cleaning if necessary.
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If your wife is going to drive this, I suspect you need to drop the pipe down for better aerodynamics. I suppose you could put a teardrop shape on the pipe for more aerodynamics as well.
Otherwise, I don’t think you can get it below the cab height without knocking several inches off the top of the barrel without making it so the air comes out the side of the barrel. (which you aren’t going to do.)
At best you might be able to get 4" from just shortening the pipe.
The only real concern I would have is Branches catching on the pipe and yanking it off.
You could also add fins on it, since it would help cooling with all the airflow.
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Leave as is JanA.
If you tape lengths of yarn all over the gasifer, cooling rack and bed edges you will see at any speed the low pressure created behind the cab and now the gasifer pulls the air flow forwards.
You asked about a flow shaping wing at the rear cab edge.
Yes. I think it will be beneficial.
But not to try and force the air flow down; that will always be wanting to flow up.
But a raised gapped wing to actually increase the rear of cab flow upwards and then underside of wing smooth it towards a backwards flow.
This will increase the air flow past your tight in cooling rack.
Always verify this with the yarn strings. You following beside in another vehicle looking.
Regards
Steve unruh
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Did your other S-10 have automatic transmission too?
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Yes, they are quite similar, don’t know if there is a manual transmission on the V6 orna?
The difference between these is 1.5 cab and tbi on this one.
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Hmm, now when I was picking up firewood I met a car that came in the middle of the road, had to brake hard, after this there was a pop under the hood and the cover for the carburetor had gone up, it is spring-loaded on one side so it didn’t break.
I haven’t experienced this before, what is causing the pop, I think JO had this problem before?
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Congratulations, Jan! Watching your video I can feel the thrill 
Very funny you made a “video” yesterday and ended up with two photos. Been there, done that
About the intake puffs - with the Volvo I still suffer from them from time to time. I’ve never ever had a puff in the Mazda truck’s intake.
I think ignition timing is part of the problem. It seems even low rpm, sudden open throttle, bad gas and a lean mix are contributing factors. Also, if I resently had an intake event - some soot resently let go, making a valve ticking - puffs are more likely to happen. Probably because an intake valve momentarely doesn’t seal probaly.
I can’t prove any of it - just a hunch.
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ok, yes it has low idle on this one, and I saw that someone had forgotten to install the hose from the crankcase to the intake, it’s possible that that has an effect.
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Is that speedometer measuring kilometers or miles per hour. Seems fast. I kept trying to find the brake petal on my recliner while I watched it.
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