Hi Jan, that filter looks perfect 
Make sure it’s insulated to avoid condensation.
About intercoolers, they are to be find cheap on truck shops, often replaced after accidents, of you talk to the right guy they are for sale for “fikapengar”
BUT! DONT use them for woodgas, it would’nt hold up. Some of us have tried…
The worst is’nt the alcaline stuff, it’s the mix that can take place if, like i sometimes do, drive on wet (very wet) wood, until temperature goes down and gasifier stops producing gas, this will let acidic compounds pass reduction, and this will eat holes in a aluminum intercooler in a week. Yes, it’s true. I have pic’s somewhere.
This is the reason i try to avoid aluminum in the first half of the system.
Buy the way, a condensation trap up front is a good idea.
Ok, do I have to insulate this filter too, didn’t I think it was necessary with the double wall?
Do you know if the flex hose from Biltema is leakproof?
Well, it’s double walled, then it’s good, i didn’t watch the pic’s close enough.
About flex hoses i don’t trust any of them, atleast not where gas is hot, and an air leak may be “catastropic”.
I haven’t checked biltemas flex hose, but if it’s the “spiral” type, you could never be sure it’s tight.
Hmm, the lid for the filter, I was going to start painting it I thought, but it turned out to be another lid, clumsy or just stupid?
Would this work as a seal between the lid and the wood container?
If I press in silicone first and then tap the strip in place?
Have you felt it in the store?
Those edge protections are more stiff like plastic than rubber in my experience and won’t smooth out used as a seal so I think there would be some leaking, they are a bit hard and would need another seal to be good. I have not held that one from Biltema in my hands though so it could be softer but I have other ones like it.
For my hopper lid I am considering a strip of rubber conveyour belt as a seal., a tire wall strip could work too (having the cord to the sides)
Thanks for the video of the great testrun on the gasifier, congratulations 
Congratulations to the first lightup. You working fast. Looks very tight to me - especially since it’s under positive pressure.
I thought it would sit over the edge of the box and the lid, if I press in silicone in the u-rt first then tap the strip over the two edges?
Do you have any pictures of your project?
Ahaa, that’s how you were thinking. I think that would work but someone experienced should probably say what they think about it.
My project has been on pause for way too long now, it’s on the premium side.
Ok, that was sad for me.
I probably shouldn’t post my stuff either, but I thought there might be someone else besides me who doesn’t have the opportunity or knowledge to do advanced things.
Please keep posting.
Unfortunately, I can’t give you a definitive answer, but I think your joint should work.
I’m learning just like you, and I’m convinced that even with basic knowledge, we should be able to manage with some help (of course).
So let’s support each other and try to move forward.
I think there are many people that sees our posts and learns without ever posting once and it is “spreading the word” showing that it can be done by everyday people if you are determined enough. Everybody that made a working gasifier for an ic engine has a gold star in my book and I think in others books in here too and you made three now that I know of.
As for the dow people here, we all like to see what others are up to and there are always new things to learn and see.
Me and JO were talking during our nightshift about this and that and your gasifier came up. You whipped out a fully functioning gasifier in a pretty short time with a nice positive pressure flare test. We all like to see that
Plus, I hope that this forum stays up and running for a very long time. It is a very good place to learn, build and be shown that gasifiers can be tailored to your own needs. A book with the chemistry and formulas don’t show that part and it is necessary to see to grasp so it is vital that we post and show for others to learn by seeing and all that are here are interested.
In a way this is also a heritage for the future.
Well this got to be a long rant so I am sorry about that but in short, please don’t stop posting, we want to see what you are up to.
Yes, it was sad that I couldn’t see your creation, but since you have it there, there must be something secret about it.
I have a hard time remembering what is secret and what I can help with, so that’s why I don’t want to be premium.
My gasifier evolved to be a scaled down WK instead of an imbert-ish based one, that is why I moved the build thread to the premium side. It is understandable but unfortunate to not be able to show everybody though.
JanA. yes, please of keep posting up your woodgasing activities.
On this topic you picture up well how you have rust you must deal with. And what you’ve done.
On others of your topics you showed accumulated intake soot deposits.
Considered normal for WK builders/users. You however decided to go like other European fellows have with a hot fine screened pleated filter. A choice.
And on at least two of your topics you picture up show your in-use upper hopper conditions.
Black gooey and dripping is normal for a raw wood gasifer.
But I’ve tried to help neat-freaks with woodgasifiaction and they could never accept, black and gooey in the upper end as normal. Actually desirable; showing heat refining out of for removal of the long chain creosotes. The surface build ups then actually acting as a steel metal preserver from the acid conditions.
Ha! neat-freaks I’ve known could never accept the “baby diapers” mess of a working woodgasifer. Expecting the clean, clean conditions of using refined, filtered and dewatered natural gas or liquid petroleum gas. I’ve wondered?? Do they have children? Or just have the woman handle that end of keeping a baby clean and smelling nice?
And your systems show it does not have to be all pretty shiny SS to have a useable working gasifier.
JohanM. here is your guideline on what you can show and not show:
https://forum.driveonwood.com/t/waynes-international-444-farm-tractor-project
This is an open side many pictures topic.
Embedded in one of the last post WayneK. put up a link to his Premium side internal building up of his downsized unit.
So your example of what you can show. And are asked, not to show.
JanA. as AdminChris recently posted up the WK is a large internal volume charcoal bed system operating at slow internal velocities. ( And with its air as extremely pre-heated)
The “Imberts” he said are relatively small internal volume units. With a much smaller charcoal bed. They operate at much higher internal air and gasses velocities. (The charcoal bed MUST renew itself continuously with no interruptions. The WK with a larger charcoal reserve you have time. Its developmental details are the extreme air pre-heating and systems made to preserve the metals from the metal contact killing heats.)
Regards
Steve Unruh
Black paint hides and blends in well with black tar on the out side of a gasifier too. That’s how I like it.
Started a bit with the radiator, wondering if there will be any cooling behind the cab, thought about putting on a wing like that that brings the air down, they usually have it on the tailgate.
Has anyone ever put fins on cooling pipes for extra cooling like we do on hopper condensate pipes?
Yes, it’s a good idea, but a lot of work, and it’s a little easier to keep these pipes clean, so that dust and other things that insulate don’t collect.
Jan, don’t forget about cleaning ports 
I use short pieces of 30 mm OD pipes. They cap conveniently with silicone wine bottle caps.