Yes, what do you think, could this be a problem?
This is the pipe between the unit and the filter.
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Do any of you have a thermometer in the gas directly after the gengas unit?
I would like to know what the temperature is usually before something cools the gas.
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Hi Jan, on the Chevrolet i have temp sensor directly aftter gasifier, usually 280-300°c, sometimes up to 380, over 400 it’s often loose charbed, channeling, or leak. 500-600° with bad hot leak if i remember correctly.
On volvo, 120-300°, about 1 meter after gasifier.
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Oh, I had about 280-300 after the cyclone on the old s10, on this one I have 430-450 right after the gengas assembly, that’s inside the pipe.
(If I measure with the IR meter I have 260, on the pipe.)
Then I have 130-150 after the filter.
I have a very loose carbon bed, almost not felt when I drive the rod down.
Do you have the sensors inside the pipe?
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Yes, i have thermocouples inside the pipe, ir-meters can give very varying results, because of convection, surface cooling, and how “reflective” the surface is.
A loose charbed, and channeling often leads to hotter gas, the opposite, i often experience when i drive with “constipated” charbed.
I think the reduction process uses up more of the available heat in that case (just my theory)
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Where do you buy your temp probes and meters?
I’ve tried quite a few different ones, and get different results with all of them, you see that if I have a grill temp meter I get a much lower temp if I don’t stick the entire probe into the tube, which is difficult when it’s 10cm.
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I was thinking about this with the temperature, since I have 300c after the cyclone on the old car, and 450 right after the gengas unit on the new one, shouldn’t it be pretty similar?
The cyclone cools the gas quite a bit.
The basic problem with the temperature (if it is a problem) is perhaps that my units never get tight, probably because I have such big holes in the grate, could that be the case?
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I’ve bought cheap “type-K” thermocouples on Amzon for example, and used stuff on tradera.
The cheap ones are just like a “pearl” that should be placed in the gas stream.
Other stuff i found around in vehicles and machinery.
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A loose charbed with bigger pieces should be higher, this is very hard to get best result, as wood species, driving circumstances, bumpy/even road will affect.
Easiest is probably to build it for a tight charbed, with forced “cleaning” grate shaker, scraper, Tone-nozzle, or like.
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Hmm, now I probably have more problems, the S10 starts to drive poorly in D mode when it gets hot, it works fine in reverse, is the gearbox worn out or is it something else?
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I don’t know what transmission that has. Does it have a transmission radiator?
is it just like 1st gear having issues or is it like shifting from 1st-2nd or 3rd to 4th?
I would probably change some of the tranny fluid and see what the filter looks like and change that. What color is the tranny fluid?
AI returned this for “S10 starts to drive poorly in D mode when it gets hot” assuming you mean a tranny issue.
Transmission Issues: A faulty shift solenoid or low, overheated transmission fluid (or clogged filter) can cause poor shifting or slipping in D.
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Changed the oil in the gearbox yesterday, didn’t go so well, I drove up to the dock and went under and let go of the fasteners, and the car went backwards, no handbrake of course, I was hoping it would go straight backwards but it didn’t.
Apart from that, doesn’t the old oil look nice?
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I am no expert. It is definitely not the worst I have seen though.
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I never have any gas left in the hopper the day after I drive this car, and I think it takes a little longer before I get good gas in this one.
I was wondering if the carbon burned out during the night, but I think it looks good, or is there too little left above the nozzles?
Could it be because I drive on dry spruce, which is quite wet, I get about 5-6 liters out of a bag in the hopper?
I also wondered if the lid is not really tight, and that is why I have no gas left the morning after.
I also still have problems with it popping in the intake, and is difficult to start on just gas, leak somewhere?
However, I think it pops when it is running too rich.
I put on a wing that directs the air down behind the cab, seems to work well, I get more water out now.
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I sealed the can on the intake yesterday and tested it in the forest, it didn’t work any better, but when we got home we saw that the crankcase ventilation had fallen off.
Tried again this morning, and it seemed a little better,
but would like some advice on what’s wrong.
At 110kmh (68miles)I have 465 degrees C (896f) out of the unit, if I stop the engine and try to start on gas I have to close the air a little before it starts, but I can’t move the throttle and it stops, if I close the air more it dies, if I open the air it dies, I have to drive for quite a while on petrol before I get good gas.
I never have any combustible gas when I start in the morning, which I always had with the old one, I’m running out of ideas.
After sealing the intake, it seems to puff less.
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I belive every setup reacts a little different. My Volvo needs more air when restarting hot. Probably because I don’t have a woodgas valve and the breather gets filld with positive pressure woodgas after shutdown. If I wait a little longer, the system has breathed in again and there’s only air. With the Mazda truck I can crank up right away with the same air-mix setting since the woodgas valve seals pretty well.
I’ve never ever had an intake puff with the Mazda, while the Volvo likes to puff now and then. I got much better after I installed the lower nozzles and the lack of an occational sticky throttle makes me believe it partially had to do with tary fumes. Other that it probably has to do with geometry in the intake and intake valve area - and leaks in the wrong places of course.
Startup time is very different too. The Volvo takes at least 3-4 times longer of tickeling with drops of gasoline before I have good enough gas to drive properly. The much larger charbed is probably the cause.
Just a few thoughts. Others may have different experiences.
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Thanks for the answer JO.
I don’t think it’s tar in my case, I haven’t felt anything on the throttle.
I think I still have a leak that makes the car not pull gas properly at idle.
Those of you who have oil drums with lids and clamp rings, how have you sealed the lid?
Do you still have the standard gasket or have you made your own?
I’m wondering if that could be the cause.
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Jan,
I use the standard replacement.
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Hmm, the car has been running well and started on the gas and no puffs for a couple of days now, but got a new problem.
The ABS light comes on after a few kilometers, took out the sensor and cleaned it and measured the ohms, seemed good, but the light comes on anyway, why?
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