Bad wheel bearing, rusty impulse wheel/krans, bad wire connection somewhere?
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Start of gengas aggregat.
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I cleaned the sensor and reset the computer, then it worked for about 15 km,
is it just as good to change the bearing directly, I have changed on the other side?
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Well it could be, hard to say, i don’t remember how s10 abs sensors are constructed, with rubber magneto wheel, or iron cog-wheel?
If it’s built in, in the bearing, it’s probably the case.
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Do they inspect your ABS system on your vehicles to make sure they are in working order?
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TomH. in most jurisdictions with mandatory “Safety Inspections” ALL of the factory installed dash warning light systems must first bulb check as functional. And then that the warning lights go out; and stay out. Every single yellow and red warning lights.
One of the reasons we moved farther up, and out, four years ago from where we’d been for the previous 27 years.
S.U.
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Yes, this one has ABS in the front wheel bearing. Tom, the inspection is apparently supposed to check with the computer if there are any errors, but I haven’t seen them do that, but if the light is on, it’s a re-inspection.
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We have no inspections of any kind in this area. I drove for over 45 years before I owned a truck with ABS and when that screwed up I just bypassed the ABS module. Probably hard to believe but in those 45 years I actually managed to work the brake pedal without any assistance from a sensor.
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My old Volvo has a non working abs, but since the car has no light for it they never check. If the brakes works nice and even, that’s enough.
Pre 2002 is often a rather basic inspection. Thats when OBD2 became mandatory in the EU. Vehicles older than that they don’t bother plug in.
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It is possible to put in a separate socket with small bulb behind the ABS symbol, wire it to another light that comes on and goes out after some seconds, with a proper capacitor and diode it can be delayed some seconds to not act suspicios. 
Just remember: it’s ok to cheat, only if you know why!!
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Usually the light is connected to the oil pressure, usually works well.
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oh yes, that pesky ABS warning.
i connected it to airbag warning bulb… ))
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You talked about how much wood is used in your cars, I went out and drove small roads today and drove 40km, then I made up for about 12kg of dry spruce, but I don’t know how much water it contains.
Strangely enough, it uses a lot at the beginning and less at the end, which is why I suspect that I have less charcoal in the unit to begin with.
But is this consumption too much, should I suspect a heat leak?
The car runs quite well, however, and responds immediately to the gas and also holds the gas on longer uphills.
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That’s ok numbers for your engine, Jan. My bags weigh around 8-10 kg and take me the same distance (at the most - sometimes a lot shorter with a lot of stop and go driving)
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Thanks JO, I’m a little confused about why this is so hot in the hopper, I’m mostly around 70-80 degrees C, usually add more wood at 100 degrees C, then you can usually fill in a sack of wood.
I also looked at the condensation, about 1 liter in the radiator and about 2 liters in the hopper.
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I don’t know if I’ve shown theirs before, but I thought I could get some tips on how I can make the next one better.
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Jan I like how you made the cage support for the fiberglass filter. How good is it holding up?
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